To minimize inductor coupling in such a tight placement, I would tip either one of the two bobbin inductors on edge. Imagine an arrow pointing through the center hole of each inductor. You want each and every arrow to be perpendicular to the other arrows- not in parallel with any other. The top left inductor (1.000) has an arrow passing down through the board. The iron core inductor has an arrow passing left-right across the bottom. The bottom right bobbin (.500) also has an arrow passing down through the board, in parallel with the other bobbin. Tip either bobbin so it's arrow is not parallel with either of the other two. The fourth inductor is a problem, can't find more than three dimensions to point arrows in, so either turn it to 45 degrees to the others, or if an inductor must couple to another, let it couple to the other inductor for the same driver.
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Yeah- so I guess your placement is great. The two parallel bobbins are for the mid-woofer and are farthest apart. I would maybe rotate the upper right tweeter inductor 90 degrees, so it's arrow is perpendicular to the iron core woofer inductor? Sorry, I should have studied the schematic more carefully.
BTW- what are your crossover frequencies? Interesting speaker.
BTW- what are your crossover frequencies? Interesting speaker.
Thank you for posting that- most educational. Nice! Looks like a great project. I like tower speakers over using stands, and these look like they will have a lot of good bass (because of large cabinet volume) for a fairly small size. What building material are you using? Are you going to veneer, wrap, or paint?
Yes- I can see on their crossover photo they have the woofer and tweeter inductors at 90 to each other, and the two mid-woofer inductor arrows parallel to each other, but 90 from the woofer and tweeter.
The 3000Hz is obviously from mid-woofer to tweeter, which seems a bit high for this driver (it starts breaking up at 2Khz and above), but it looks like they made it work well as the response plot is pretty flat through this hand-off.
They don't say where they roll-off the woofer. In the response plot I'm seeing a LOT of wiggly stuff going on between 100 and 500Hz- but the response plot for the driver itself is pretty flat in this area. Maybe this is intermodulation between the different positions of the woofer and mid-woofer through the frequency range where they are rolling off the lower woofer and it's interfering with the mid-woofer? Given that they are the same size open back driver sharing the same cabinet volume there HAS to be some pretty funky interference happening when you roll one off through this frequency range.
It might be really interesting to do some experiments when you get them built. Both the mid-woofer and woofer get the same full low-frequency content, just the high frequencies are rolled off at different points and different rates- Wonder how the sound changes when you disconnect the mid-woofer, (probably a big suck-out in the middle) or better if you disconnect the lower woofer. If the speaker sounds better through the upper bass lower midrange with the lower woofer disconnected, you could drive both woofers with the same mid-woofer crossover design, they both get the same bass content so should be same bass response at the low end, and both rolling off the high frequencies at the same cutoff and rate, and maybe eliminate the intermodulation. Actual listening results will probably vary significantly from the measurement plots anyway, especially if you deviate from the exact cabinet build, so your result may vary. I hope you follow up with your build progress. Maybe post a full thread with updates and pictures? We love speaker porn.
Anyway, take everything I say with a grain of salt- I know "just enough to be dangerous". Keep us posted!
Yes- I can see on their crossover photo they have the woofer and tweeter inductors at 90 to each other, and the two mid-woofer inductor arrows parallel to each other, but 90 from the woofer and tweeter.
The 3000Hz is obviously from mid-woofer to tweeter, which seems a bit high for this driver (it starts breaking up at 2Khz and above), but it looks like they made it work well as the response plot is pretty flat through this hand-off.
They don't say where they roll-off the woofer. In the response plot I'm seeing a LOT of wiggly stuff going on between 100 and 500Hz- but the response plot for the driver itself is pretty flat in this area. Maybe this is intermodulation between the different positions of the woofer and mid-woofer through the frequency range where they are rolling off the lower woofer and it's interfering with the mid-woofer? Given that they are the same size open back driver sharing the same cabinet volume there HAS to be some pretty funky interference happening when you roll one off through this frequency range.
It might be really interesting to do some experiments when you get them built. Both the mid-woofer and woofer get the same full low-frequency content, just the high frequencies are rolled off at different points and different rates- Wonder how the sound changes when you disconnect the mid-woofer, (probably a big suck-out in the middle) or better if you disconnect the lower woofer. If the speaker sounds better through the upper bass lower midrange with the lower woofer disconnected, you could drive both woofers with the same mid-woofer crossover design, they both get the same bass content so should be same bass response at the low end, and both rolling off the high frequencies at the same cutoff and rate, and maybe eliminate the intermodulation. Actual listening results will probably vary significantly from the measurement plots anyway, especially if you deviate from the exact cabinet build, so your result may vary. I hope you follow up with your build progress. Maybe post a full thread with updates and pictures? We love speaker porn.
Anyway, take everything I say with a grain of salt- I know "just enough to be dangerous". Keep us posted!