I have a Hifonics BRX2400.1D (Brutus BRX-2400.1D) that goes into protection with just power connected. (no remote wire jumped/connected) I pulled the pwr board and it will give me the green light at that point. This is as far as I've gone as I haven't worked on car amps before. I'm looking for direction. What involving the pwr board should I be focusing on?
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Actually that may be incorrect. It's the board outlined in the image below that I pulled and the amp came out of Protect and went Green.
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For clarification...
When you stated that it would go into protect with only power connected, did you mean B+, ground and remote or only B+ and ground?
That's the power supply driver board. With it out of the circuit, the power LED will probably illuminate if remote and ground are connected. When the board is out of the circuit, the amp is essentially inoperative. When it's in the circuit, the power supply will produce voltage and if there is a fault in the audio stage, the amp will (should) go into protect mode.
Did you check the output transistors in the amp?
Post a photo of the audio driver board.
When you stated that it would go into protect with only power connected, did you mean B+, ground and remote or only B+ and ground?
That's the power supply driver board. With it out of the circuit, the power LED will probably illuminate if remote and ground are connected. When the board is out of the circuit, the amp is essentially inoperative. When it's in the circuit, the power supply will produce voltage and if there is a fault in the audio stage, the amp will (should) go into protect mode.
Did you check the output transistors in the amp?
Post a photo of the audio driver board.
If I remember correctly it was green with both configs. The green light I believe just got a little brighter when the remote wire was jumped but I don't recall 100%.
Also, the amp was in protect mode without the remote wire connected prior to removing that board if that helps. (I'll add this information to the first post as well)
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Was the cover on the amp when you tested it initially? It's odd that the LEDs were half lit. If the cover was not in place, ambient light could have made them look partially lit.
After looking at other amps that use this same board I just realized that what I thought was a god awful glue job might be something else? I have attached a few pictures that display this hard plastic stuff that looks like it has air bubbles in it.
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That appears to be a fixative. Applying it as a foam (air bubbles) would make it cover a larger area with less material (making it less expensive to apply).
Thanks, that's a relief. I got the Driver Card out. Any suggestions on what to start testing?
Audio, I will be testing to see if it goes into protect with that removed in a second.
Q7, Q11, Q19 and Q22 are the first components that I'd replace if it's going into protect and there are no shorted output transistors.
It goes into protect without the Audio board in. Not sure if that's typical of this amp without the Audio board in though.
Do you still have the protect LED lit before applying remote voltage?
Is there any significant DC voltage on the output filter inductors?
Have the probes in place before applying power and watch the meter until the protect LED lights up.
Is there any significant DC voltage on the output filter inductors?
Have the probes in place before applying power and watch the meter until the protect LED lights up.
Yes, it goes into protect without the remote wire. When I apply the remote wire the protect light just gets brighter. I'll check with the meter when I get back home.
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