As above...I have some MUR3060WT HEXFreds...they are common cathode connected...how do I actually go about making a full wave bridge...do I have to waste a few internal diodes??
I'm afraid that you have to use 4 parts but you can connect the two diodes in parallel.
BTW: I have have a stick with MUR3020PT for sale. 200 V diodes.
BTW: I have have a stick with MUR3020PT for sale. 200 V diodes.
OK..meaning I use the inner pins as the cathode...and the 2 outer pins together pins as the andode...what will happen to the voltage drop...half??? Or voltrage and current capabilities???same voltage twice the current???
Voltage drop a little less but it's not sure because the diodes may run cooler.
The same voltage, almost twice the current. The diodes arent't 100% alike but the have the same temperature so they will share current fairly.
Connection correct.
The same voltage, almost twice the current. The diodes arent't 100% alike but the have the same temperature so they will share current fairly.
Connection correct.
Thanks for the fast reply...do you have any reccommendations on how to attach them...do they need a sizable heatsink to run at the reccommended current?? I'm thinking of bolting it to the main heatsinks with insulayting tabs of course...wonder how that might affect the sound...the output stage is also on the same heatsink...or do you recommend a seperate heatsink...for all my rectifiers???I will not probably be using a PCB for the rectifiers...just screwing them on and soldering straight...but I will mount them is a "star" like configuration...with 4 diodes...one on each side...Thanks for your help again...
I resently did a bridge with mur3060, only used one diode from each pack. Someone said paralleling made more switch noise, and since I was gonna use it for a aleph 3 i diden't need the extra curent capability any way, so what the heck... I bolted them to a L bar 3mm thick and 80mm by 30mm or so. l bar bolted to chassis. Temp at tab is 60 deg C or so.
Here's my pcb layout with snubbers:
I can also post eagel files or pdf for printing if you like to.
Here's my pcb layout with snubbers:
I can also post eagel files or pdf for printing if you like to.
Attachments
Member
Joined 2002
This is for damping ringing (resonance). Often only a C may be enough but sometimes also a R is needed, depending of used parts and how the other circuits looks like.
Nice PCB work
Nice PCB work
Member
Joined 2002
Are you going to get a few of these boards done. if not can i have the jpeg or pcb file so i can build a few ? im going to use them for my new amplifiers and my gain clone's..
JasonL, I will probably not get them made pro, at least not at this time. Im planning to do some changes to make the pcb more versatile, so it accepts other diodes, (like mur860 etc) pcb mount heatsinks for smaller diodes and different sized caps and resistors. The present version was just adapted to whatever I had laying around.
The pcb files are to big to attach even when i zip'ed them and the forum want accept pdf, so you'll have to send me a mail if you want them. You have to have eagel 4.01 to open the pcb files.
The pcb files are to big to attach even when i zip'ed them and the forum want accept pdf, so you'll have to send me a mail if you want them. You have to have eagel 4.01 to open the pcb files.
Member
Joined 2002
li_gangyi said:
Why do you want to make a bridge? Do you already have the xformer? If not, chosing a xformer with mid-tap, you get away with just a single dual HexFRED device per voltage.
Jan Didden
Re: Re: How To Build a HEXFred Bridge
I think he only got one type of diodes, common cathode and I think he also had +- supply.janneman said:
Yupz...I'm going with dual +/- supplies...for an amp...I guess parelling the diode would be the best choice for me...I need the current...
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