I have an old 15" subwoofer, that is impossible to find in the net, I took it to my colleague and he measured the TS parameters, I know its power handling is about 220W RMS. Now I want to build an enclosure but I am wondering to what Frequency can I tune the box? It is possible to blow the driver at high volumes even if it can play the 25Hz if it is not designed to do so at high volumes right?
What are your opinions on this?
Thanks
A
What are your opinions on this?
Thanks
A
If you have the TS parameters that's all you need to get starting designing an enclosure.
The enclosure will dictate what frequencies the speaker will be able to produce. The only way to blow a driver is by causing it to fail thermally with too much power or damaging the driver by hitting its excursion limits.
You may find it's difficult to make an enclosure that lets you apply a full 220w to your driver at 25hz without having the excursion exceed your driver's limits. It all depends on what kind of performance you want. A sealed box will have very high excursion at 25hz compared to a ported enclosure tuned to an Fb of 25hz.
What are you using the sub for? A lot of people may be more satisfied with a sub tuned to go down to 35hz since you'll get more output, a smaller box, and less concern about excursion.
You may also get more specific advice if you post the TS parameters so we know what you're working with.
The enclosure will dictate what frequencies the speaker will be able to produce. The only way to blow a driver is by causing it to fail thermally with too much power or damaging the driver by hitting its excursion limits.
You may find it's difficult to make an enclosure that lets you apply a full 220w to your driver at 25hz without having the excursion exceed your driver's limits. It all depends on what kind of performance you want. A sealed box will have very high excursion at 25hz compared to a ported enclosure tuned to an Fb of 25hz.
What are you using the sub for? A lot of people may be more satisfied with a sub tuned to go down to 35hz since you'll get more output, a smaller box, and less concern about excursion.
You may also get more specific advice if you post the TS parameters so we know what you're working with.
Fs 28.2
Re 5,2
D 338mm
Qts 0,39
Qms 5,47
Qes 0,42
Mms 106
Bl 15
Vas 330
Cms 0,29
L1k 1,35
Rms 3,43
Sd 896
I would like to use it for the low ends because I am alot into electronic music. We now have a setup that produces sound from 65Hz, I need to fill the gap from around 25-65Hz. I was looking at a TH design.
Re 5,2
D 338mm
Qts 0,39
Qms 5,47
Qes 0,42
Mms 106
Bl 15
Vas 330
Cms 0,29
L1k 1,35
Rms 3,43
Sd 896
I would like to use it for the low ends because I am alot into electronic music. We now have a setup that produces sound from 65Hz, I need to fill the gap from around 25-65Hz. I was looking at a TH design.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or maybe this would be better- a vented enclosure It will probably go higher than the TH design. Then it could be used for other applications as well with different crossover settings
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Tapped horns will give more output than a ported box, though will have more distortion when doing those extra dBs.
THs tend to need more processing to get them sounding good - you need delays, and fairly steep crossovers and/or out-of-band notch filters. A modern speaker processor will manage this easily, though a basic analogue crossover won't get the best out of a TH.
Chris
THs tend to need more processing to get them sounding good - you need delays, and fairly steep crossovers and/or out-of-band notch filters. A modern speaker processor will manage this easily, though a basic analogue crossover won't get the best out of a TH.
Chris
That looks like a nice response curve. Check the displacement chart though. I'm betting the excursion is probably very high on that design. You might be hitting xmax with as little as 50w. Given how sensitive tapped horns tend to be over sealed and ported designs, that might be a reasonable compromise to make. 50w may be all you need to get quite loud.
Is your driver a true subwoofer or is it a pro sound woofer? One way to get an idea is with the front suspension type, pro sound drivers typically have a rolled cloth suspension while home audio subs will have a foam or rubber front suspension.. though I have seen exceptions to this. And does the magnet assembly have a bumped back plate or is it flat? Both of these things will hint at how much mechanical excursion the driver can sustain,
The problem with sealed and TH designs is that driver excursion increases as frequencies drop so you generally need a true subwoofer to get performance into the 20's, while ported boxes produce minimum excursion at tuning frequency so you may be able to produce a box that gets louder at lower frequencies with that design. But if your driver is badly excursion limited a bandpass design may be what you need to use to keep the cone within it's design limits.
The problem with sealed and TH designs is that driver excursion increases as frequencies drop so you generally need a true subwoofer to get performance into the 20's, while ported boxes produce minimum excursion at tuning frequency so you may be able to produce a box that gets louder at lower frequencies with that design. But if your driver is badly excursion limited a bandpass design may be what you need to use to keep the cone within it's design limits.
How can I know what to look out for judging by this chart?
10 Hz seems pretty bad 😀
10 Hz seems pretty bad 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The woofer is pretty sweet looking, it looks similar to this one and the magnet is bumped.
http://www.avc-electronics.com/usa/zona/fotos/ST-15100--.JPG
I have poor lighting conditions here, I cant take a pic at the moment
http://www.avc-electronics.com/usa/zona/fotos/ST-15100--.JPG
I have poor lighting conditions here, I cant take a pic at the moment
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
yep, that hit em
I think Im going for a vented box. Maybe later I will also try to build a TH enclosure as an experiment. Your community is very friendly and has lots of useful info here. This is great that we still have something like this in the world
The driver in the pic is a pro sound woofer, unlikely it has more than 3 or 4mm xnax, your driver could be more capable than that.. hard to say. Best thing to do is put it in a box and do some sweeps at low drive levels just to see how it does, and gradually increase power until you get the SPL you want or the driver starts making bad noises.
August, in my opinion this is not the best woofer for your needs. You need a subwoofer with a higher xmax, like conanski sad. I think that this woofer is suitable from 40hz +.
I built a vented box tuned to 25,6 Hz, it sounds good even at low end but it could be not so good at 220W RMS probably.
I m being very gentle with it for now
Thanks you for your answers
I m being very gentle with it for now
Thanks you for your answers
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