I have a car Amplifier in my house (Just collecting dust) and want to put it to use, I dont have a car anymore and i have a 12" subwoofer. I've collected some cables around my house and partially hooked my amp to my Pc but all i need now is a way of powering this amp inside my house.
Looking into the manual for the amp it requires 34A (amps) of power.
How would i go about powering this? Also how Do i turn it on because it has a remote Feature that has to go to the deck and Im not setting up a deck aswell.
Thanks
Looking into the manual for the amp it requires 34A (amps) of power.
How would i go about powering this? Also how Do i turn it on because it has a remote Feature that has to go to the deck and Im not setting up a deck aswell.
Thanks
One way:
Run it off a 12V battery ( deep cycle is best ) and keep that battery charged with an automotive battery charger.
Friends off the "grid" do this with solar panels to battery bank.
Or run the amp off a AC/DC power supply.
In the US you can get regulated bench supplies,
But 34 Amps is substantial, so a PS of that capacity is going to be expensive.
Run it off a 12V battery ( deep cycle is best ) and keep that battery charged with an automotive battery charger.
Friends off the "grid" do this with solar panels to battery bank.
Or run the amp off a AC/DC power supply.
In the US you can get regulated bench supplies,
But 34 Amps is substantial, so a PS of that capacity is going to be expensive.
AndrewT said:
I second this.
Car amps are not audiphile amps by a long stretch and especially car subs drivers are horrible when used indoors in a low noise enviroment where you can hear all it's flaws.
Alternatively, if you're dead set on using it, just use the 12v supply in the PC to power it provided you have a relatively high wattage PSU. Don't mind the 34A specification, that's only going to be in very short peaks if indeed ever.
icecoolwas said:
The load (speaker impedance) determines how much current is needed at the maximum power output.
Using a higher impedance speaker (8 ohms instead of 4 ohms) will cut the current demand in half.
"Ice" didn't state the details on the amp in question...
FWIW: I have done numerous 12V sound systems, for portable high SPL sound systems in parades, to individuals that can't get AC to their homes in the country.
The quality of 12V components can be very bad, so using low end amps are not worth it. There are however very good 12V amps and head units. It's not the voltage but the quality of components and implementation.
There are of course inherent problems with a 12V DC system,
You should use a high sensitivity speaker design, to maximum efficiency.
Remember there are audiophiles who power their systems with "flea powered" amps.
FWIW: I have done numerous 12V sound systems, for portable high SPL sound systems in parades, to individuals that can't get AC to their homes in the country.
The quality of 12V components can be very bad, so using low end amps are not worth it. There are however very good 12V amps and head units. It's not the voltage but the quality of components and implementation.
There are of course inherent problems with a 12V DC system,
You should use a high sensitivity speaker design, to maximum efficiency.
Remember there are audiophiles who power their systems with "flea powered" amps.
Thanks for the replies.
I've hooked up a spare Computer Powersupply and I am using both 12v rails, 18A combined (No I did not add 8A from each 12v rail). I've shorted over the remote and 12V+ and to my suprise the amp turns on.
So If the Maximum my Amp will take is about 34A, Im going to need 34A at 12V right? Ive researched for Powersupplies and came across one of these.
60A 12v Rail PSU 750W
http://tinyurl.com/HerculesPSU
Im guessing I'll just set it up the same way but I'll put a fuse into the circuit, 35-40A fuse would be Okay right?
I could'nt find anything cheap that was around 40A so if i want to upgrade amp 60A should do and its pretty cheap so.. what do you think?
Also some people said the quality of the sound would be ****, with the Current PSU im using right now it sounds good but when I crank it over 50% my Amplifier Starts clipping and sounds awful, which means it obviously needs more Power.
Thanks
I've hooked up a spare Computer Powersupply and I am using both 12v rails, 18A combined (No I did not add 8A from each 12v rail). I've shorted over the remote and 12V+ and to my suprise the amp turns on.
So If the Maximum my Amp will take is about 34A, Im going to need 34A at 12V right? Ive researched for Powersupplies and came across one of these.
60A 12v Rail PSU 750W
http://tinyurl.com/HerculesPSU
Im guessing I'll just set it up the same way but I'll put a fuse into the circuit, 35-40A fuse would be Okay right?
I could'nt find anything cheap that was around 40A so if i want to upgrade amp 60A should do and its pretty cheap so.. what do you think?
Also some people said the quality of the sound would be ****, with the Current PSU im using right now it sounds good but when I crank it over 50% my Amplifier Starts clipping and sounds awful, which means it obviously needs more Power.
Thanks
Myself, I really woudn't invest in another power supply so you can run your amp at max power.........I'd guess you will get another car in due time & an 'extra' PS will be sitting around, unused for some time. Besides you may have some neighbors that will go ballistic hearing you sub at full power.
You do realize that a car sub is a very different creature as opposed to a "home" subwoofer..........the two sound completely different.........If it sounds good for you thats' OK!
Perhaps a 'spare' car battery can be used for the high current demands with your computer supply configured as a float charger.
Maxing out your computer supply is not good as it may not have any safety circuits that can deal with overloads.
_______________________________________Rick...........
You do realize that a car sub is a very different creature as opposed to a "home" subwoofer..........the two sound completely different.........If it sounds good for you thats' OK!
Perhaps a 'spare' car battery can be used for the high current demands with your computer supply configured as a float charger.
Maxing out your computer supply is not good as it may not have any safety circuits that can deal with overloads.
_______________________________________Rick...........
My neighbours will go crazy I suppose they used to get angry over that 4" logitech 20WRMS sub I had, I guess I will only crank it when they are not at home. Although I've thought about it I am getting a new setup (Kicker Solo X 18" or a Fi BTL) and a better Amp So I might aswell put it to good use, not that the supply costs much anyway.
Thanks for the reply though.
Thanks for the reply though.
If you're going to use it for an extended period of time I would feel more comfortable with a battery and a charger.
Make sure to use a sealed battery too, most car and deep cycle batteries are vented and can give off flammable gas (hydrogen?) when they charge.
Make sure to use a sealed battery too, most car and deep cycle batteries are vented and can give off flammable gas (hydrogen?) when they charge.
In my house I have one visonik 700rms competition car subwoofer and a 1500RMS class d car amplifier. I have 2 1200 CCA car batteries wiried in parallel and one 40 amp battery charger. For my remote wire I just stole a little bit of power from the main positive with a 18ga wire and stuck it in the remote terminal and when I want to trun off my amp I just unplug the 18ga wire from the remote terminal. Its crazy loud, its flexes my house windows and all the walls in my house.
Car amps vary. An ancient Pioneer GM-120 wouldn't power up on the bench unless I had something like a car battery. But, several more modern (1990's) amps have powered up OK off a small gelcell or a 5A Astron bench supply. And that included an ungodly powerful PPI 4100. Quiescent current on one amp I checked was a mere 200 mA (for an amp that did something like a 200W RMS at full power).
Anyway, a "one-box" solution is a computer UPS, since most of the small/medium sized units (under 1kVA) contain 12V gel cells plus a full-time charger. Make very sure the 12V battery stuff is isolated from the AC line, though.
With music, peak power is often at least 10 dB above average power, so an amp clipping at 200W is actually drawing less than 20 watts on average. So, if the battery is there to fill in the peak demand, it doesn't need a massive charger to keep up.
Anyway, a "one-box" solution is a computer UPS, since most of the small/medium sized units (under 1kVA) contain 12V gel cells plus a full-time charger. Make very sure the 12V battery stuff is isolated from the AC line, though.
With music, peak power is often at least 10 dB above average power, so an amp clipping at 200W is actually drawing less than 20 watts on average. So, if the battery is there to fill in the peak demand, it doesn't need a massive charger to keep up.
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