JL makes a decent looking six. But I'd like to limit it at abouts $150 - 200$. If going that large it will require nibbling in to the storage portion in the console I'm making.
Dayton is relatively new to me, I took ownership of very little Dayton over time. But constantly am being impressed with the last Titanic 10", enough to buy more of them. They can compete respectfully with more expensive top JLs, really no reason not to apply a Dayton here.
Its for the rear section of this Chevy H-ell Camino console. Attached is a rudimentary plan page I drew up, or threw up hehe, while in stop and go traffic. Complete with coffee stain. A sealed section at the very rear indicated by the dotted line will house this small sub of some kind.
It only has to accentuate a 5 1/4" pair of coax in a car built for street n strip. Too much extra wait, not in the plans., nothing crazy expected, this approach would be wrong from go anyhow. Most important, simply filling bass in audibly with a bit of punch in to the adjacent seat maybe.
https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_1366W3...oHNiFt_jU_pv0slwdwH9GZeLqbFbmP4BoCX3AQAvD_BwE
There are so many I'm in unfamiliar territory. BBB best bang for the buck is what I'm after @ $150.00 max if possible and if worth doing it.
I have a HiFonics Vulcan that wires in mono. A second 2ch will be required.
It would be extra neat to do a PR on the opposite side. Maybe or not. Creature comforts can start to add up quickly. The console will pop out quick and easily, hold downs are 6-8 ss wing nuts and threads. But still the lighter the better.
Please help me to choose a decent subwoofer for the very tight sealed enclosure.
Dayton is relatively new to me, I took ownership of very little Dayton over time. But constantly am being impressed with the last Titanic 10", enough to buy more of them. They can compete respectfully with more expensive top JLs, really no reason not to apply a Dayton here.
Its for the rear section of this Chevy H-ell Camino console. Attached is a rudimentary plan page I drew up, or threw up hehe, while in stop and go traffic. Complete with coffee stain. A sealed section at the very rear indicated by the dotted line will house this small sub of some kind.
It only has to accentuate a 5 1/4" pair of coax in a car built for street n strip. Too much extra wait, not in the plans., nothing crazy expected, this approach would be wrong from go anyhow. Most important, simply filling bass in audibly with a bit of punch in to the adjacent seat maybe.
https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_1366W3...oHNiFt_jU_pv0slwdwH9GZeLqbFbmP4BoCX3AQAvD_BwE
There are so many I'm in unfamiliar territory. BBB best bang for the buck is what I'm after @ $150.00 max if possible and if worth doing it.
I have a HiFonics Vulcan that wires in mono. A second 2ch will be required.
It would be extra neat to do a PR on the opposite side. Maybe or not. Creature comforts can start to add up quickly. The console will pop out quick and easily, hold downs are 6-8 ss wing nuts and threads. But still the lighter the better.
Please help me to choose a decent subwoofer for the very tight sealed enclosure.
Attachments
![20230602_023838[6537].jpg](/community/data/attachments/1087/1087659-d3bc3b0452592356b9cf6c9f728e05f2.jpg?hash=07w7BFJZI1)
diy sound group Exodus Anarchy, the 6" version not the 7" version
Keep in mind it won't play as low as a typical ten or a twelve, and if making the box as small as possible is the goal, you're generally going to want to use an 8" or 10" very high excursion subwoofer with very high power handling, a la Sundown / Stereo Integrity / etc
Basically there are 8" and 10" subs that will work with as little as 10-14 liters of airspace.
Keep in mind it won't play as low as a typical ten or a twelve, and if making the box as small as possible is the goal, you're generally going to want to use an 8" or 10" very high excursion subwoofer with very high power handling, a la Sundown / Stereo Integrity / etc
Basically there are 8" and 10" subs that will work with as little as 10-14 liters of airspace.
Its seven but np fitting. only requires 0.29 to start working decent with cars slope. Ill go bigger and sealed.
The front section will wrap around the shifter and have two cup holders. From the magic marker point on back will be the sub cabinet section, all the way to kiss cars rear wall. I could easily accommodate 2 subs but again to keep weight down. It only has to fill in the lows.
Plenty of times id slide a couple facing bazooka tunes in there, but a console is just starting to push luxuries.
The nasty carpet goes, and seats go, for bolstered buckets. I have to fit those and new rails then ill know how wide go with the cab. I want the seats to hug the seats and look clean.
The dayton scores another hit. Budget tight that car (all cars) is a money pitt.
The front section will wrap around the shifter and have two cup holders. From the magic marker point on back will be the sub cabinet section, all the way to kiss cars rear wall. I could easily accommodate 2 subs but again to keep weight down. It only has to fill in the lows.
Plenty of times id slide a couple facing bazooka tunes in there, but a console is just starting to push luxuries.
The nasty carpet goes, and seats go, for bolstered buckets. I have to fit those and new rails then ill know how wide go with the cab. I want the seats to hug the seats and look clean.
The dayton scores another hit. Budget tight that car (all cars) is a money pitt.
Attachments
The Anarchy 6 works well in a center console subwoofer arrangement. The tuning you end up with lands very nicely in the area of cabin gain to carry it downwards to a decent cutoff frequency.
I just bought a pair of the GRS 8SW-4HE from PE which were only 50 bucks each. Its alot of driver for the money.
To late I already got one, but its always appreciated thanks.
I'm familiar with the Anarchy subs that have an anarchy folded horn designed around them. If these Anarchy are of the affiliated.
The ot Anarchy flat pack was on a long production pause when I tried acquiring one. I wonder if that has since changed.
Just got through installing a pair of 6.5 woofers in some .25cf sealed cabinets down behind the front seats in a tiny motorhome.
From what I can tell, the speakers themselves aren’t anything special.
Lots of fiberglass insulation is a big help. The cabin gain will help the case, in my situation it was able to have decent 90db+ at 45hz, and sounds good along with the two-way (4”+tweeters) that are buried in the dash. Goes much louder too!
The woofers have coils to help filter out anything over 170hz. That along with passive crossovers for the smaller front speakers allows it all to run off of a single 100w amp.
All in an effort to merely hear the music while driving on the highway…
From what I can tell, the speakers themselves aren’t anything special.
Lots of fiberglass insulation is a big help. The cabin gain will help the case, in my situation it was able to have decent 90db+ at 45hz, and sounds good along with the two-way (4”+tweeters) that are buried in the dash. Goes much louder too!
The woofers have coils to help filter out anything over 170hz. That along with passive crossovers for the smaller front speakers allows it all to run off of a single 100w amp.
All in an effort to merely hear the music while driving on the highway…
Just wait till you hear about Tang Band's two inch subwoofers 🙂
The W3-1876S is quite the performer. Pack a pair into an opposed PR-bandpass with 30W on tap, and you'll be impressed! It's the only time I've heard a sub the size of a loaf of bread be something that substantial. Goosebump lives!
Thats neat. The novelty of such a small sub performing down to 38hz. They print miniature folded horn hexi-boxes cabs (so cool) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3851805
,or you could CNC or spin them out with a router in laminated form.
It would be great to fit a tiny FH in place of the fake console section. But it would push size limits too far in that respect.
Its not the size of the boat its the motion of the ocean.