Hi everyone, i'm glad to be back, I had an account here years ago that i've lost the credentials to.
Anyway I have an entry level LG tv with digital optical out, that i'd like to connect to my analog speaker system, and I have absolutely no idea what i'm doing.
I'm seeing multiple terms that look like they might all describe the same connector, like toslink, S/PDIF, and "optical digital audio out" which is the term the manual uses.
Anyway can someone tell me the most common term for that connector?
Also, is there anything I need to know about picking a digital to analog converter?
Anyway I have an entry level LG tv with digital optical out, that i'd like to connect to my analog speaker system, and I have absolutely no idea what i'm doing.
I'm seeing multiple terms that look like they might all describe the same connector, like toslink, S/PDIF, and "optical digital audio out" which is the term the manual uses.
Anyway can someone tell me the most common term for that connector?
Also, is there anything I need to know about picking a digital to analog converter?
Toslink and 'optical digital audio out' refer to the same physical connector style but 'S/PDIF' refers to a digital audio interface via RCA connectors (though sometimes its used to refer to the protocol, which is the same one Toslink uses).
As for picking a D/A, my own 2c worth would be listen as they don't all sound the same. If your prospective choice of D/A is powered by a switching supply be sure that it has balanced outputs and that your preamp or amp has balanced ins. The reason for this is that only balanced connections have the potential to deal hygienically with the leakage currents emanating from mains-fed switching supplies.
As for picking a D/A, my own 2c worth would be listen as they don't all sound the same. If your prospective choice of D/A is powered by a switching supply be sure that it has balanced outputs and that your preamp or amp has balanced ins. The reason for this is that only balanced connections have the potential to deal hygienically with the leakage currents emanating from mains-fed switching supplies.
abraxalito, I need a converter that does toslink?
also in this instance the "outputs" are literally from the LG tv.
also, i'm not looking to do a high end setup here in the family room, my better system is downstairs with planar speakers in front, dynaudio in the rear and a 5 channel adcom amp.
So for this family room setup, is there a budget type of converter I could look for that would meet those requirements you mentioned?
also in this instance the "outputs" are literally from the LG tv.
also, i'm not looking to do a high end setup here in the family room, my better system is downstairs with planar speakers in front, dynaudio in the rear and a 5 channel adcom amp.
So for this family room setup, is there a budget type of converter I could look for that would meet those requirements you mentioned?
SMSL'S SU-1 at $79US is solid - powers from whatever USB port you have (mine runs from a desktop pc) - it receives high marks technically
- check out reviews for Toslink users
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-su-1-stereo-dac-review.44029/
- check out reviews for Toslink users
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-su-1-stereo-dac-review.44029/
I like the RME ADI-2 DAC FS. It's not the cheapest out there but it's very high performance.
If you want something that's about the same cost as dirt, try a Topping D30.
Tom
If you want something that's about the same cost as dirt, try a Topping D30.
Tom
If you found a USB bus 5V PSU which wasn't a switcher then the SMSL SU-1 would pass muster. Otherwise the PSU's leakage currents will pass along your unbalanced ICs shields into your amp and detract from the SQ.
You ask it on a DIY forum, so I assume you would prefer to build rather than buy a DAC:
There are many good DIY DAC designs on this forum, but those marked "USB only" or "DSD only" are not usable for your application. Anything that can handle PCM and has an S/PDIF input can usually easily be converted to Toslink. The most suitable ones are probably those based on a medium-performance DAC chip.
There are many good DIY DAC designs on this forum, but those marked "USB only" or "DSD only" are not usable for your application. Anything that can handle PCM and has an S/PDIF input can usually easily be converted to Toslink. The most suitable ones are probably those based on a medium-performance DAC chip.
@JR10
Let me describe how I connect my TV to my stereo set:
My TV has a Toslink optical output and a USB socket
The Toslink carries the digital audio signal
The USB is for connection of external memory sticks and the like, it provides 5V power as well
I'm using a Topping D50s DAC:
A USB cable is connected from the DAC's USB to the TVs USB (just for power)
A Toslink cable goes from TV Toslink out into the DACs Toslink in
The DAC's red and black marked cinch output sockets are connected to my stereo set with a normal audio cinch cable.
The TV set up is changed to the optical out activated and the TV speakers disabled
Done 🙂
Best greetings,
Winfried
Let me describe how I connect my TV to my stereo set:
My TV has a Toslink optical output and a USB socket
The Toslink carries the digital audio signal
The USB is for connection of external memory sticks and the like, it provides 5V power as well
I'm using a Topping D50s DAC:
A USB cable is connected from the DAC's USB to the TVs USB (just for power)
A Toslink cable goes from TV Toslink out into the DACs Toslink in
The DAC's red and black marked cinch output sockets are connected to my stereo set with a normal audio cinch cable.
The TV set up is changed to the optical out activated and the TV speakers disabled
Done 🙂
Best greetings,
Winfried
Well Marcel,
almost all built-in TV speakers sound crappy at least to me and many others. From experience there is good sound potential in externally DA converting TV audio and listening with decent stereo equipment. If TV speakers are OK for you that's OK for you, but the OP looks for advice on a different set up 😉
Regards,
Winfried
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The OP asked a question on a DIY forum and got mostly non-DIY replies...
Our previous television still had an analogue headphone output that was connected to my (DIY) preamplifier, so we could listen over good (non-DIY) loudspeakers if we really wanted to. Most of the time we didn't, but every now and then we did.
We then got a television with only digital outputs: Toslink and HDMI. It turned out that the Toslink output had no volume control. If you wanted to be able to control the volume via the television's remote control, you had to use the HDMI ARC output instead.
We bought an interface for that (DIY with HDMI is almost undoable because of legal reasons, as far as I know), but for some reason never got it to work. In the end we just returned it and decided to listen over the television's loudspeakers. The sound is mediocre, but I can't say it made watching television more or less enjoyable.
Our previous television still had an analogue headphone output that was connected to my (DIY) preamplifier, so we could listen over good (non-DIY) loudspeakers if we really wanted to. Most of the time we didn't, but every now and then we did.
We then got a television with only digital outputs: Toslink and HDMI. It turned out that the Toslink output had no volume control. If you wanted to be able to control the volume via the television's remote control, you had to use the HDMI ARC output instead.
We bought an interface for that (DIY with HDMI is almost undoable because of legal reasons, as far as I know), but for some reason never got it to work. In the end we just returned it and decided to listen over the television's loudspeakers. The sound is mediocre, but I can't say it made watching television more or less enjoyable.
The OP also said they didn’t know a whole lot and are looking for an easy solution. DIY comes in all forms, and one form is assembling pre-built components.
The Topping D10s is also a good, cheap, and easy option. No volume control, but I’m assuming that by “analogue speaker system” the OP already has a receiver in the loop.
Try watching iiWi Reviews on YouTube. He has tested a lot of DACs and gives good opinions. As someone else mentioned the SMSL SU-1 is highly rated at about £80 and probably out-performs older DACs costing several hundred pounds.
Another good place to look is Audio Science Review, where the SMSL SU-1 also tests very well.
The SMSL D-6s at £200 also tests fantastically and is highly rated on both the previously mentioned sites.
SU-1
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-su-1-stereo-dac-review.44029/
D-6s
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-d-6s-balanced-dac-review.48813/
Another good place to look is Audio Science Review, where the SMSL SU-1 also tests very well.
The SMSL D-6s at £200 also tests fantastically and is highly rated on both the previously mentioned sites.
SU-1
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-su-1-stereo-dac-review.44029/
D-6s
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-d-6s-balanced-dac-review.48813/
He didnt know what the different output types are so I would not assume he wants to build a DAC. I dont think it's worthwhile building your own DAC these days to be honest.
That's why I assumed JR10 wanted to build an existing design rather than to design his/her/its/their own. When you like to build your own equipment, it is always worthwhile.
@JR10 For budget applications I have used these linked below with success. The cost is low as is the risk... YMMV
$14 USD PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter (Amazon link)
$17 USD Musou RCA Analog to Digital Optical Toslink Coaxial Audio Converter Adapter (Amazon link)