I am thinking about buying one of these
MKLL Tripath TA2024 Amplifier Board 2X15WATT Tested New | eBay
I am wanting to install a volume knob as well as an on/off switch. I assume I can hardwire into the board but not sure where since there isn't much of a schematic provided. Thanks in advance!
MKLL Tripath TA2024 Amplifier Board 2X15WATT Tested New | eBay
I am wanting to install a volume knob as well as an on/off switch. I assume I can hardwire into the board but not sure where since there isn't much of a schematic provided. Thanks in advance!
Power on/off switch goes in between the 12V input and the power supply and the volume pot has ground on the left pin pair, audio output to the amp on the center pair and audio input on the right pair(seen from the shaft end/front of the pot with the pins/legs facing downward)
Post #46 illustrates Tekkos' description on the pot 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/167495-simple-stereo-gain-stage-3.html#post2223625
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/167495-simple-stereo-gain-stage-3.html#post2223625
Tekko and of course the great Mooly thanks for the response!
Would this be the right potentiometer?
500K Ohm Linear Dual Taper Rotary Potentiometers B500K 500KB Pot Alpha | eBay
I see that there are many different options when it comes to the OHMS. Just not sure which one I should order up for my project.
Thanks again in advance!
Would this be the right potentiometer?
500K Ohm Linear Dual Taper Rotary Potentiometers B500K 500KB Pot Alpha | eBay
I see that there are many different options when it comes to the OHMS. Just not sure which one I should order up for my project.
Thanks again in advance!
A lower value would be much better in practice.
500K would "interact" with the input impedance of the amp causing such issues as poor "feel" where the control might appear to do little until turned right up and also reducing the high frequencies as it forms a simple R/C filter with the ever present input capacitance of the amp.
Go for somewhere between 10K and 50K.
You can also use a linear pot and add a resistor to fake the log law. Explained well here, look at "changing the law of a pot"
Potentiometers (Beginners' Guide to Pots)
500K would "interact" with the input impedance of the amp causing such issues as poor "feel" where the control might appear to do little until turned right up and also reducing the high frequencies as it forms a simple R/C filter with the ever present input capacitance of the amp.
Go for somewhere between 10K and 50K.
You can also use a linear pot and add a resistor to fake the log law. Explained well here, look at "changing the law of a pot"
Potentiometers (Beginners' Guide to Pots)
Mooly,
Thanks so much, you are the best! I have been researching since I posted my question and found that the 500K wouldnt work very well. I found a couple of spots where it mentioned 50K. Do you think buying several different pots in the 10-50 range would be a good idea, or just go for the 50?
Thanks
🙂🙂🙂
Thanks so much, you are the best! I have been researching since I posted my question and found that the 500K wouldnt work very well. I found a couple of spots where it mentioned 50K. Do you think buying several different pots in the 10-50 range would be a good idea, or just go for the 50?
Thanks
🙂🙂🙂
BTW, thank you for the link....
I never knew there was so much to learn about pots. Back to reading. 😉
I never knew there was so much to learn about pots. Back to reading. 😉
You're welcome 🙂
Common values are 10K, 22K and 47K or 50K. Personally, for an amp used with modern sources (CD etc) I would go for 10K or 22K but any of those values listed will work just fine.
Common values are 10K, 22K and 47K or 50K. Personally, for an amp used with modern sources (CD etc) I would go for 10K or 22K but any of those values listed will work just fine.
Just finished my homework for the day, now my brain hurts 😉. After reading through everything I am thinking the 10K might be the best. My main source is going to be an iphone. Maybe I will jut buy one of each, 10K and 22K.
Thanks again Mooly!
🙂 🙂 🙂
Thanks again Mooly!
🙂 🙂 🙂
10K is fine.
Some more info... some portable sources, Ipods/MP3 players etc etc (as opposed to normal separate hifi components) use a small Class D stage as the headphone/line output. Some of these sources don't work well in high impedance loads (such as a volume control) because they rely on the low impedance of the h/phones to form part of the output filter. It's not all, just some players. All you can do is try and test. If there is a problem then the cure is easy, you fit a low value resistor such as 33 ohms across the inputs (left and right). You probably won't have a problem but just worth mentioning if you do.
Some more info... some portable sources, Ipods/MP3 players etc etc (as opposed to normal separate hifi components) use a small Class D stage as the headphone/line output. Some of these sources don't work well in high impedance loads (such as a volume control) because they rely on the low impedance of the h/phones to form part of the output filter. It's not all, just some players. All you can do is try and test. If there is a problem then the cure is easy, you fit a low value resistor such as 33 ohms across the inputs (left and right). You probably won't have a problem but just worth mentioning if you do.
potentionmeter
I have a Canterbury phonograph with mw/fw radio ,cassette,&3 disc cd player which the on/off volume control switch has stopped working ,my problem is I can not find the potentionmeter on/off switch. the radio cd init sits inside wooden cabinet I have taken the unit out and un soldered the on /off switch off the pcb board ,but there is nothing to tell me what switch it is ,I have looked on net for something that looks similar ,I bought 1 but it now turns on and off but no volume any advice
I have a Canterbury phonograph with mw/fw radio ,cassette,&3 disc cd player which the on/off volume control switch has stopped working ,my problem is I can not find the potentionmeter on/off switch. the radio cd init sits inside wooden cabinet I have taken the unit out and un soldered the on /off switch off the pcb board ,but there is nothing to tell me what switch it is ,I have looked on net for something that looks similar ,I bought 1 but it now turns on and off but no volume any advice
Might help to see a picture of the problem parts. Someone might be able to match them.
Not sure what you mean regarding the volume problem. Are you saying that working on the unit has caused another unrelated problem ?
Not sure what you mean regarding the volume problem. Are you saying that working on the unit has caused another unrelated problem ?
no the switch does both on and off and volume the old 1would turn on and soon as you turned the switch any further it would stop working the new 1 which is not identical turns on and stays on when you turn the switch but there is no sound .I do not know how to attach a picture of the switch
This is the kind of thing I always think of for a volume control plus switch. This is just a normal pot (single gang here) with the switch on the back. Very common years ago on TV's and radios.
To attach a file or picture is easy 🙂
To add a photo, files or non standard files.
First click "go advanced" in the box below the "quick reply" message box. Doesn't matter if you decide half way through a message to do that, it carries it forward.
Then click "Manage attachements". Maximise the new Window so that you can see all the text.
Click browse in the first box at the top and find your picture. Repeat for any more pictures.
Click upload... a message appears "uploading"
When complete the files will show as being attached. Now click the small text that says "close this window"
The pictures should now be attached and when you submit your post they will appear.
Make sure your pics aren't too big, a couple of 100k is plenty, and many members object when they are massive and it alters the margins
It tells you in the attachments window what max sizes are allowed.
If you want to attach a file that has a non standard format for example excel, circuit simulation etc then try putting the files in a zipped folder and attaching that.
To attach a file or picture is easy 🙂
To add a photo, files or non standard files.
First click "go advanced" in the box below the "quick reply" message box. Doesn't matter if you decide half way through a message to do that, it carries it forward.
Then click "Manage attachements". Maximise the new Window so that you can see all the text.
Click browse in the first box at the top and find your picture. Repeat for any more pictures.
Click upload... a message appears "uploading"
When complete the files will show as being attached. Now click the small text that says "close this window"
The pictures should now be attached and when you submit your post they will appear.
Make sure your pics aren't too big, a couple of 100k is plenty, and many members object when they are massive and it alters the margins
It tells you in the attachments window what max sizes are allowed.
If you want to attach a file that has a non standard format for example excel, circuit simulation etc then try putting the files in a zipped folder and attaching that.
Attachments
guy in maplins said old 1 has 2 eath bits on bottom which green 1 does not have and yyou need to know the size of ,power of it
Well that looks the right sort of part you have. If it switches on and off OK then you have wired the switch correctly.
No sound... it can only be either something you have inadvertently done or something strange with the pot. Is it the correct value, although anything even remotely in the ballpark will work. Is the print OK to the pot (if its PCB mounted) ? The pot is simple in operation, one end will be grounded, the other end will have the audio input applied and the centre pin is the variable output.
No sound... it can only be either something you have inadvertently done or something strange with the pot. Is it the correct value, although anything even remotely in the ballpark will work. Is the print OK to the pot (if its PCB mounted) ? The pot is simple in operation, one end will be grounded, the other end will have the audio input applied and the centre pin is the variable output.
the value thing guy at maplins mentioned something about that saying the green 1 had value on it B50k but old 1 only has B503 on it ? maybe have not soldered the joints well enough
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