I inherited some Sansui Sp2000 sitting around that were previously stored in an old shed. As a result, the speaker's box was rotted, damaged, and some of the driver's cones were ripped. Recently I learned about open baffle setups and decided why not try it?
Last Tuesday I started the teardown/rescue process of retrieving the drivers and crossovers from the old SP2000s. After I retrieved all the components, I started my research and design phase. After reading articles, watching videos, and dreaming, I started building. By Saturday afternoon I finished my prototypes which I have dubbed the Sayonara Sansui SP2000's.
This is my first build and my first time working with wood on this scale. Some of the driver's cones are still ripped and I will work on repairing them with some Elmer's glue and paper towels. Overall they sound really good, imaging is unique, and they provide a special "soft" listening experience.
I am completely open to critique and suggestions, I would like to scale down the size of the H frame for the woofer. I went with the H frame to possibly increase the bass, but I'm not sure if that is necessary or the right approach.
Last Tuesday I started the teardown/rescue process of retrieving the drivers and crossovers from the old SP2000s. After I retrieved all the components, I started my research and design phase. After reading articles, watching videos, and dreaming, I started building. By Saturday afternoon I finished my prototypes which I have dubbed the Sayonara Sansui SP2000's.
This is my first build and my first time working with wood on this scale. Some of the driver's cones are still ripped and I will work on repairing them with some Elmer's glue and paper towels. Overall they sound really good, imaging is unique, and they provide a special "soft" listening experience.
I am completely open to critique and suggestions, I would like to scale down the size of the H frame for the woofer. I went with the H frame to possibly increase the bass, but I'm not sure if that is necessary or the right approach.
Nice you should try a u frame for the woofer and stuff with loose polyfill to Tailor in some bass a u frame is a cube with the speaker in front with no rear panel if your wondering what it is you should try it
Thank you, I will look into that. Can anyone chime in on whether the mid's and tweeters should be on the same plane as the sub?
Ideally they would be wwway behind the sub for proper time alignment, otherwise lining up the VCs vertically and using whatever polarity sounds best at the listening position, though until HT became popular one normally had them all on one baffle with custom XOs to average it all out, so align them to suit yourself.
Hi, the OB technique is well explained in this forum ( Manzanita thread?!) and generally you have to decrease the mid & treble. But first you have to equalize the bass, since you'll likely turn up the bass, if you have tone controls.
Or make like anyone, use a much bigger coil for the lowpass and set the subsequent levels of mid & treble.
( Most use 15" or 18"woofers so not much decrease of mid & treble.)