I was wondering if it is possible to solder to pieces of very thin (wire-like) Titanium threads together, and if so what to use as solder material. If not, will some kind of super bond glue then do the trick? No electrical connection is needed (it’s my reading glasses 
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Epoxy. Make sure the surfaces are clean.
Titanium is like aluminum in that it has a protective oxide layer, but it's much tighter.. I don't think I've heard of anyone successfully soldering the stuff!
Tim
Titanium is like aluminum in that it has a protective oxide layer, but it's much tighter.. I don't think I've heard of anyone successfully soldering the stuff!
Tim
Hi Tim,
Thanks for your suggestion..................
I have thought of using epoxy glue, however the two parts to be glued together has only a dia. of 0.5 mm (app. 148")
Thanks for your suggestion..................
I have thought of using epoxy glue, however the two parts to be glued together has only a dia. of 0.5 mm (app. 148")
Soldering Titanium is absolutely impossible.
WIG welding is best, MIG/MAG works with pure Argon and and a piece of Titanium fed to the junction, but I don't think this is an option for thin wires.
WIG welding is best, MIG/MAG works with pure Argon and and a piece of Titanium fed to the junction, but I don't think this is an option for thin wires.
Was the glasses made of real (solid) titanium?
I have it in my watch, very nice material and with a spooky feeling, lighter than steal heavier tha aluminium and really hard surface!
I have it in my watch, very nice material and with a spooky feeling, lighter than steal heavier tha aluminium and really hard surface!
Aluminum: about 2,8g/cm^3
Titanium: about 4,5 g/cm^3
Steel: about 7,8 g/cm^3
The main issue about Titanium is it's extreme resistance against corrosion.
Some manufacturers give a 100 year warranty on this issue 😀.
The mechanical issues depend on the alloy chosen. Generally, it can be compared with steel.
Interesting about Titanium: It is an exremely bad heat conductor. You can cut a Titanium sheet with an angle grinder (will produce wonderful white sparks 😀) and touch the sheet 10 cm apart without getting burnt.
Titanium: about 4,5 g/cm^3
Steel: about 7,8 g/cm^3
The main issue about Titanium is it's extreme resistance against corrosion.
Some manufacturers give a 100 year warranty on this issue 😀.
The mechanical issues depend on the alloy chosen. Generally, it can be compared with steel.
Interesting about Titanium: It is an exremely bad heat conductor. You can cut a Titanium sheet with an angle grinder (will produce wonderful white sparks 😀) and touch the sheet 10 cm apart without getting burnt.
Per-Anders:
The frame should be "real" Titanium (the frame alone costs app. $400,- And yes. It is very light and comfortable to wear.
The frame should be "real" Titanium (the frame alone costs app. $400,-
And yes. It is very light and comfortable to wear.Maybe you can get the damaged part as spare (or even warranty exchange) for a fraction of that ?
good luck
Charles
Why don't ask an "optiker" or a gold smith. They may have necessary tools/methods?
Optiker = sells glasses
Optiker = sells glasses
Peranders:
It's also called an Optiker in Denmark....
And yes! I have asked "Sorry - Nothing to do about that!"
But thanks....
It's also called an Optiker in Denmark....
And yes! I have asked "Sorry - Nothing to do about that!"
But thanks....
0.5mm is not enough area for epoxy to work well, even with the ultra-high strength compounds. Unless you are one of the best in the world, welding them will only produce molten blobs. But all may not be lost...
If you broke the frame at the bridge, you could attempt to create a new bridge using some kind of patch that is shaped to look good and will bond all the front surfaces of the bridge wires. Sand the back of the patch and the front of the bridge wires with the finest emory paper and use a good epoxy, maybe even something that is filled (see below). Clamp with a small locking pliers using thin cardstock as protective layer. After setting and about 1/4 to cure, add more layers of epoxy to surround the bridge wires and form a tunnel for the wires.
At one of the recumbent bike races a few years back, one guy broke his frames and fixed them this way. Epoxy is good stuff if you remember that it is not a structural material, but something that merely prevents motion of structures. Some epoxy is filled with structural material like steel or aluminum powder. This makes it stronger and nearly structural. It is good for filling small gaps between structures. I've fixed a snapped bike frame during a race this way. Inside connector tube was slightly small so created a filled epoxy by using some available roadside sand to create a type of "concrete". Outside connector was oversize so used more sand filled epoxy between it and frame. Worked well enough to finish the races.
🙂ensen.
If you broke the frame at the bridge, you could attempt to create a new bridge using some kind of patch that is shaped to look good and will bond all the front surfaces of the bridge wires. Sand the back of the patch and the front of the bridge wires with the finest emory paper and use a good epoxy, maybe even something that is filled (see below). Clamp with a small locking pliers using thin cardstock as protective layer. After setting and about 1/4 to cure, add more layers of epoxy to surround the bridge wires and form a tunnel for the wires.
At one of the recumbent bike races a few years back, one guy broke his frames and fixed them this way. Epoxy is good stuff if you remember that it is not a structural material, but something that merely prevents motion of structures. Some epoxy is filled with structural material like steel or aluminum powder. This makes it stronger and nearly structural. It is good for filling small gaps between structures. I've fixed a snapped bike frame during a race this way. Inside connector tube was slightly small so created a filled epoxy by using some available roadside sand to create a type of "concrete". Outside connector was oversize so used more sand filled epoxy between it and frame. Worked well enough to finish the races.
🙂ensen.
You could at least try to tape them. This would guarantee you at least one point on the nerd test :
http://www.armory.com/tests/nerd.html
😉
Regards
Charles
http://www.armory.com/tests/nerd.html
😉
Regards
Charles
Perhaps spot welding is the technique for joining such pieces?
Alternatively, depending on where the break occurred, perhaps you could consider fabricating a small sleeve with setscrews that would hold the unattached ends?
My wife has some titanium eyeglass frames. The only joints I can recall that would be welded on hers are at bridge supports. In this location I dont know that my suggestions would be too helpful.
We also invested in these frames based on titanium’s durability. This is somewhat disturbing.
Check out this link:
http://www.rti-intl.com/tag/weld.htm
also this one:
http://www.deutschetitan.de/eng/profi/kb11.html
If you try the epoxy route, you might consider using a fillet or two of stainless steel wire across the junction to add some rigidity.
Alternatively, depending on where the break occurred, perhaps you could consider fabricating a small sleeve with setscrews that would hold the unattached ends?
My wife has some titanium eyeglass frames. The only joints I can recall that would be welded on hers are at bridge supports. In this location I dont know that my suggestions would be too helpful.
We also invested in these frames based on titanium’s durability. This is somewhat disturbing.
Check out this link:
http://www.rti-intl.com/tag/weld.htm
also this one:
http://www.deutschetitan.de/eng/profi/kb11.html
If you try the epoxy route, you might consider using a fillet or two of stainless steel wire across the junction to add some rigidity.
Back in the days of the Soviet Union, the only place in the world that could that could reliably weld titanium was the Soviet submarine works near Vilnius. However, there was a healthy black market in (of all things) titanium ice-screws that were made after hours and sold to get foriegn currency. They were in high demand by western mountaineers. I remember seeing a few a friend brought back from Nepal wre he had bought them from a Polish mountaineer. When returning through US Customs, he was stopped and questioned about them. It wasn't illegal to bring them in, the CIA just wanted to borrow them for a few days presumably to do some kind of chemical analysis, since the material was the same as used on Soviet submarine hulls.
Hi Jan (do You remember...?)
No You don`t have to!
Call a dental laboratory and ask if they have a (spot) laser welder machine (today those are quite common in good dental laboratories).
Look at the yellow pages - I´m sure there are many and some might be even in the same town or the same quarter.
Laser welding Titanium works excellent (due to the bad heat conduction it`s the ideal material)!
Do a google search with the keywords: dental welding laser Titan (or titanium) and You`ll find enough information about this!
Usually dental technicians are helpful guys (I´m one 😉 ) and happy when they can try their skills on other things as just the usual stuff.
With some luck this takes only 5 minutes and maybe cost You almost nothing (bring them some sweets for the coffee break and probably You almost won😉 )
Hello again cocolino. Nice to hear from you again🙂
And thanks to all for all the suggestions on, how to solve this problem. I think I will got for the "dentist method" suggested by cocolino. I will keep you informed🙂
Maybe someday this come in handy, if we attempt to make Titanium enclosures for our diy-amplifiers 😀
And thanks to all for all the suggestions on, how to solve this problem. I think I will got for the "dentist method" suggested by cocolino. I will keep you informed🙂
Maybe someday this come in handy, if we attempt to make Titanium enclosures for our diy-amplifiers 😀
I know someone who TIG'd some. Lemme see...
http://www.nmpproducts.com/tiweld.htm
He welded some titanium sheet for his BattleBot ( 🙂 ). Requires a compete inert atmosphere, something easily done with a bit more argon and a fishing tank. Can probably do things much easier on something as small as glass frames. For something that thin you'll need a good low range on the TIG machine...
Tim
http://www.nmpproducts.com/tiweld.htm
He welded some titanium sheet for his BattleBot ( 🙂 ). Requires a compete inert atmosphere, something easily done with a bit more argon and a fishing tank. Can probably do things much easier on something as small as glass frames. For something that thin you'll need a good low range on the TIG machine...
Tim
Hehe...There are more of us around then I thought... That's exactly where my Titanium experience is from 😀
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