All I can find out about those Sical Sic-Safco caps is that they are electrolytic.
If they are old, then I would not use them.
Electrolytic caps have a shorter life span than plastic film capacitors.
Therefore, if I was going to purchase electrolytic capacitors, I'd buy new, recently manufacturer ones, not vintage ones.
I hope that helps.
If they are old, then I would not use them.
Electrolytic caps have a shorter life span than plastic film capacitors.
Therefore, if I was going to purchase electrolytic capacitors, I'd buy new, recently manufacturer ones, not vintage ones.
I hope that helps.
Don't use a 35V cap to couple headphones in an OTL a tube amp, It will explode, and the headphones won't be happy.
How about...?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UPW2E471MRD?qs=oQYsPLWZnc0O2NTmRKXI/Q==
470uF 250V
+105C rated
8000 hrs service life rated
low impedance
Not too expensive
-or-
WIMA DC-Link polypropylene caps are available in 200uF 400V. That would be ideal except that they cost 5X what the electrolytic cap costs, and it looks like you have to special order them. But you're only using two for a stereo amp, right? Might be worth it...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UPW2E471MRD?qs=oQYsPLWZnc0O2NTmRKXI/Q==
470uF 250V
+105C rated
8000 hrs service life rated
low impedance
Not too expensive
-or-
WIMA DC-Link polypropylene caps are available in 200uF 400V. That would be ideal except that they cost 5X what the electrolytic cap costs, and it looks like you have to special order them. But you're only using two for a stereo amp, right? Might be worth it...
DCP6P06470EN00KS0F WIMA | Mouser United Kingdom
£99 each. 116x95mm and 1.5mOhm ESR. Tasty. At least the the metal can you can poke them above the chassis.
£99 each. 116x95mm and 1.5mOhm ESR. Tasty. At least the the metal can you can poke them above the chassis.
On the description for Sic-Safco its says they are new which means nos, I asked the seller if they were tested but no response.
I also found these German branded caps, ROE ELKO, russian seller sent me offer $9/£6.70 for 2pcs. did anyone used them for coupling?
I'm still waiting for my Peak ESR70 then I'll test them.
I also found these German branded caps, ROE ELKO, russian seller sent me offer $9/£6.70 for 2pcs. did anyone used them for coupling?
I'm still waiting for my Peak ESR70 then I'll test them.
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Too large, not gonna fit inside my Woo audio Wa 2, I bought Mundorf mkp classic 330uf(250v) without checking the diameter(62mm), now i don't know what to do with them LOL
The issue with 'testing' is that is quite involved with caps and and Arduino attached to a screen doesn't quite demonstrate it's all great with the cap.
1. impedance vs frequency
2. leakage
3. voltage applied
A cap may give you one set of responses at low voltage but a different set at higher voltage, especially where leakage is concerned. Testing a 600Vdc cap at <1V may not indicate its failure. At least without some high degree of sensitivity (ie Carlson Labs style).
I'll be interested to see how you get on with the Peak ESR meter. Looks like a handy addition to the standard L-C-R measurements from a multimeter.
Hehe yep - the space for a transformer is taken up with caps. Just a different form of metalwork.
The size is a problem, although with a can - as long as the can itself can be is grounded vs the potentials applied to the pins. Last thing you want is 250Vac on one side of the cap at the other sat grounded to the chassis.. Those WIMA caps metal case and bolt are specifically designed to be earthed/bolted to chassis chassis. In principle I like the idea better given you can keep them cool by being exposed above the chassis. The Mundorf don't have that luxury without some additional metalwork.
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Yes I would if the car is still new! and nothing wrong with the engine. To me the 70s car looks cooler than 80s/90s cars
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I was thinking more along the lines of this:
I like being able to get in the car, hit a button, and have a working car with no need to "warm up" the engine and no choke. I also like the fact that a modern 183 CI engine makes 382 HP, which is almost as much as that 426, but more driveable and 1/2 the fuel usage 😀
I like being able to get in the car, hit a button, and have a working car with no need to "warm up" the engine and no choke. I also like the fact that a modern 183 CI engine makes 382 HP, which is almost as much as that 426, but more driveable and 1/2 the fuel usage 😀
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I don't really trust old electrolytics, even if they're NOS. I'd spring for a new Kemet or Epcos cap, rated at the B+ voltage or above. I used Kemet 220uF/350V in my headphone amp since I have 32 ohm phones, but you can use a smaller cap with higher impedance phones. I also bypassed the electrolytics with 2.2uF film caps.
UK 1973 - Ausin Allegro (The Austin Allegro... - It never stood a chance - Not PS2 Grand)
Yeah.. err. No. ... no. no. no.
It kind of looks like it's trying to be a Maserati 🙂
I think I'd rather have a Lada Riva...Lada Riva - Wikipedia
I think I'd rather have a Lada Riva...Lada Riva - Wikipedia
Yes I would if the car is still new! and nothing wrong with the engine. To me the 70s car looks cooler than 80s/90s cars
You'd have to replace every rubber component. Brake hoses, coolant hoses, suspension bushings, etc etc.
Modern capacitors are better than NOS in every measurable way. Electrolytic caps have a finite lifespan.