Hello everyone, I'm new here and I have this Dai-ichi ASW-10DR Active subwoofer (chinese brand), it has 2x10" subs in it (clamshell) in a 4th order enclosure, like this;
the box is quite old now and in a bad shape, probably water damaged also (luckily it still works amazingly but do vibrate a lot because the wood is kind of soft now), I would like to re-design the enclosure. Like what I've said, I'm fairly new with bandpass boxes, I do owned few L ported boxes a while back but not a bandpass ones.
I would like to make it a 3 chambered 4th order bandpass like this one;
I kind of know that you do a clamshell design or method to produce twice the power, sadly I do not know the ratings of the subs and I only know the ratings of the amplifier since I look it up in the internet, it's two of these Philips TDA1514A which if I'm not mistaken produce 50w each? So overall knowing it's producing around 50w per sub, it'll produce about a power of a 100w sub right?
so back to the dual 4th order bandpass design, can I make the volume smaller from the original design since I'll have another chamber for the other sub? Let's say the original design has 50 liters of volume in sealed and in ported, can I make the design that I want to 25 liters sealed per sub? and having about the same 50 liters in the ported side? Or am I missing something? Thanks for helping in advance, I would really want to restore the condition of this active sub that I paid for around 10usd only.
I would practically use this for movies and music (assorted genre, doesn't matter if it would not be that so called hi-fi enough since it's a cheapo active sub in the first place).
the box is quite old now and in a bad shape, probably water damaged also (luckily it still works amazingly but do vibrate a lot because the wood is kind of soft now), I would like to re-design the enclosure. Like what I've said, I'm fairly new with bandpass boxes, I do owned few L ported boxes a while back but not a bandpass ones.
I would like to make it a 3 chambered 4th order bandpass like this one;
I kind of know that you do a clamshell design or method to produce twice the power, sadly I do not know the ratings of the subs and I only know the ratings of the amplifier since I look it up in the internet, it's two of these Philips TDA1514A which if I'm not mistaken produce 50w each? So overall knowing it's producing around 50w per sub, it'll produce about a power of a 100w sub right?
so back to the dual 4th order bandpass design, can I make the volume smaller from the original design since I'll have another chamber for the other sub? Let's say the original design has 50 liters of volume in sealed and in ported, can I make the design that I want to 25 liters sealed per sub? and having about the same 50 liters in the ported side? Or am I missing something? Thanks for helping in advance, I would really want to restore the condition of this active sub that I paid for around 10usd only.
I would practically use this for movies and music (assorted genre, doesn't matter if it would not be that so called hi-fi enough since it's a cheapo active sub in the first place).
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pSs5VDTn1g7dOhoQaDD9n7Ajr8y-tWu5/view?usp=sharing
Here's a video clip playing the sub at a certain volume (anything above will result to a lot of vibrates in the enclosure)
do make sure you use a good quality ear/headphones as much as possible, thanks!
Here's a video clip playing the sub at a certain volume (anything above will result to a lot of vibrates in the enclosure)
do make sure you use a good quality ear/headphones as much as possible, thanks!
No, you can't. Main advantage of the isobaric design is that it requires half of the volume compared to a single driver.
Just copy the original design.
Advantage of the second design (3-chamber) is 6 dB greater SPL output compared to the first design (isobaric), but it requires double volume - 50 litres for each sealed enclosure and 100 litres for the vented (and you have to shorten the vent, to get the same resonant frequency).
It is safe to assume that each 10" driver can handle at least 50 W of power.
Great, thank you for the help, I would probably just do the 3-chamber design since I had a feeling that something is up with the phase setting of the amplifier, I think it's not doing the flex accordingly as is should, and I think the sub is hitting each other, that's why I'm also opting for a new design, but yeah..
so in order to do the 3-chamber design, in short, I would just do 2 boxes of the original design and stick it together right? just like these?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tYtcB2atyw_OQrdSXdbHspbbU6Bm8V-E/view?usp=sharing
(Sorry for the video, I know it's not the exact thing I would do, I'm just in a rush right now in taking the video, I'm at work hahaha but I know you get my point.)
Tested it and Phase actually works as it should! Thank you very much for the help! 👍🏻
anyone correct me if I am wrong:
keep in mind that with isobaric driver configuration the necessary box volumes are halved (that is, for your existing box).
so you would have to double the volumes for each single driver bandpass and only then stick them together, resulting in about 4-fold total volume.
Yes, but initial subwoofer was isobarik
(needing half volumes).
But maybe it would be best to measure drivers and model the enclosure in a simulation software.
(needing half volumes).
But maybe it would be best to measure drivers and model the enclosure in a simulation software.
OK I did this and it is the most incredible sub I have come by. This is how I did it look at this picture the two outside Chambers with the drivers or different volumes I went with a slotted port but had a good idea in the process of coming to the decision of a slotted port I used PVC pipe one inside the other so that they would slide to tune it hope that's helpful this thing will knock full drinks out of the cup holders in my ride
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It looks like it to me.
Isobaric = 2 EXACT SAME model drivers!
I had 4 MTX RT2154's in an isobaric BP4 enclosure in a 1983 Mercury Grand Marquis LS.
Sadly, I have no picks of the box or the car. I built the box in 1996, donated the car, and sold the box for $200 in a garage sale in 2002. It was the 1st item to sell. Some dudes in a Ford Explorer bought it.
Isobaric = 2 EXACT SAME model drivers!
I had 4 MTX RT2154's in an isobaric BP4 enclosure in a 1983 Mercury Grand Marquis LS.
Sadly, I have no picks of the box or the car. I built the box in 1996, donated the car, and sold the box for $200 in a garage sale in 2002. It was the 1st item to sell. Some dudes in a Ford Explorer bought it.
Looks great, and using four different units may be just the the thing that makes it incredible! Enjoy 🙂
OK so the 2 15" Cerwin Vega Subs or the same speaker just different models with basically the same parameters I've since replaced them with identical Subs the 2 18s on the other side are also the same. It's exactly like they say. " a lot of output out a very small hole. I you really do want to use the same drives. In each push pull configuration or you will get cross correction.the shared chamber you don't have to worry about that so much as long As each pair have the proper volume as if they were independent just like the mass of the air between the isobaric spkrs it adds to the overall mass of the drivers the shared chamber air mass adds to the overall mass of the output of port. If anyone has any thing to add or if I got anything wrong. Lmk
How did you get the exact tune for 2 different size drivers with the same common ported chamber?
If anything, I would have the shared chamber sealed and vent the 2 outer chambers.
Roll off is that really a think...speakers are not where the sound reproduction comes from in this instant that's why they are referred to as drivers the volume of the cavity doesn't change the Box itself becomes the resonating chamber think of it as like when you have a bottle and you blow over the top of it you'll get that kind of hum whistle out of the top of the bottle the two sides can be tuned to two different frequencies I think the one side I have at 53 Hertz it's tuned to and the other side it's like 80 something hurts I have it crossed over to about 200 HZ but that's only because a crossover limitations 2hz to 400 befor roll off 8200 watts total givs 1800w 15s 2400w 18s doing the damage speakers kept breaking my bolts and eventually broke the screws holding the cabinet together the entire thing is screwed together with three and four inch screws you could have damn near a 20 oz cup of coffee in the cup holder and it'll come right out the head room is I've never turned it up passed 1/3 out of fear of breaking out the glass with windows down
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if the bolts/screws are tightened properly is highly unlikely a speaker to be able to break them. Some of these in your picture have unusual bends which I managed to get when disassembling a speaker cabinet with a car jack (some were missed when I removed all of them before using the jack).