Would this be a good choice to make an isolation transformer for working on vintage audio?
BRIDGEPORT MAGNETICS TIS1000-2120 - (ebay seller has moved 30+ of them.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202550334875?hash=item2f28f0d59b:g:fZQAAOSwHPdcJmci
Here are some specs.
https://www.bridgeportmagnetics.com/bmg-product/medical-grade-isolation-transformers/
BRIDGEPORT MAGNETICS TIS1000-2120 - (ebay seller has moved 30+ of them.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202550334875?hash=item2f28f0d59b:g:fZQAAOSwHPdcJmci
Here are some specs.
https://www.bridgeportmagnetics.com/bmg-product/medical-grade-isolation-transformers/
That's a good price for a 1kVA transformer.
I see no reason not to use it as an isolation transformer.
I see no reason not to use it as an isolation transformer.
Thanks for your input kodabmx.
The label says 50Hz required. Is that a minimum? (Just making sure this thing is for our USA 60hz.)
I see the specs say 60 Hz or 50/60 Hz but am unsure if that means both, either/or or what. 🙂
The label says 50Hz required. Is that a minimum? (Just making sure this thing is for our USA 60hz.)
I see the specs say 60 Hz or 50/60 Hz but am unsure if that means both, either/or or what. 🙂
Thanks Speedskater
Good to know it is built better than needed for 60 Hz. Now to figure out what else is needed.
I'm thinking it will have outlet options with and without dim bulb tester in line.
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I came across this while looking for ideas on the IT build:
"You also require a low capacitance from primary to secondary for proper isolation. A transformer that is just 1:1 is not enough. Also there's fusing, a LED to indicate the primary is on, a LED to indicate the secondary is available after its switch and fuse (that shows the switch is on, the fuse is intact and the output is available). A fuse won't protect YOU, it will protect the DUT (device under test). An installed mains earth interrupter will be good too."
What is he talking about "installed mains earth interrupter"?
"You also require a low capacitance from primary to secondary for proper isolation. A transformer that is just 1:1 is not enough. Also there's fusing, a LED to indicate the primary is on, a LED to indicate the secondary is available after its switch and fuse (that shows the switch is on, the fuse is intact and the output is available). A fuse won't protect YOU, it will protect the DUT (device under test). An installed mains earth interrupter will be good too."
What is he talking about "installed mains earth interrupter"?
Assuming you are in the U.S. or Canada I think he is talking about what we refer to as a GFI or GFCI, respectively "ground fault interrupter" or "ground fault circuit interrupter". They sense leakage current by comparing the currents in the line and neutral and if they are not very close to identical this is regarded as a ground fault and they open the circuit. Mine don't have them but they are a good idea and will still work without any ground being present.
Our home was built in 1910, and we've been here not quite 2 decades, old houses are a lot of work... LOL
Surprisingly yes, but they're small and limited to the bedrooms. We also have a linen closet in the upper stairs landing. The house had central heat, indoor plumbing, electric light only, and no fireplaces in 1910. Friends whose homes were built only 2 or 3 years before ours had both gas and electric light, hence my comments.
We have a closet in the dining room, but it appears to have been the original door to the kitchen. It's surprisingly open for the time, although some further changes were made in the 1950s to open up the kitchen area to the dining room.
You have LOTS of closet space kevinkr! 🙂
The transformer came in; it is beefy. I'm clueless how to proceed.
The cellophane wrap is tough and is bonded tightly to the top and bottom centers. Is it cut at the center or
maybe dissolved with a solvent?
The transformer comes with an epoxy potted center with a drilled hole and a flat bottom. Is it laid flat on the
rubber pad and just bolted down?
The transformer came in; it is beefy. I'm clueless how to proceed.
The cellophane wrap is tough and is bonded tightly to the top and bottom centers. Is it cut at the center or
maybe dissolved with a solvent?
The transformer comes with an epoxy potted center with a drilled hole and a flat bottom. Is it laid flat on the
rubber pad and just bolted down?
Attachments
The wrap is part of the transformer insulation system (it is not cellophane) and should never be removed. If you did this unfortunately you have damaged the transformer, if you didn't you should send it back. There should never be exposed magnet wire. The transformer would be installed on the rubber pad with a bolt through the center.
I would suggest you not use this transformer.
Yes, comparatively speaking we have closets, but not the size or accessibility of modern closets.
I would suggest you not use this transformer.
Yes, comparatively speaking we have closets, but not the size or accessibility of modern closets.
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Well, I should have asked first before assuming it needed to be removed.
Any recommendations on how to proceed?
jk on you having lots of closets. (Although you do have a lot compared to me.) 🙂
I'm going to make 3 bedrooms into 2, adding closets to each and an entry closet to the LR area.
Any recommendations on how to proceed?
jk on you having lots of closets. (Although you do have a lot compared to me.) 🙂
I'm going to make 3 bedrooms into 2, adding closets to each and an entry closet to the LR area.
I guess how to proceed depends on how much you have attempted to remove, if only a little you could get kapton (polyimide) tape and secure the insulation with it. Otherwise you should replace it.
Sounds like a good remodeling plan. We have a full bath and 4 bedrooms of varying sizes. One is my home office, two are actual bedrooms and one is the home of bunnies. (very spoiled house rabbits)
Sounds like a good remodeling plan. We have a full bath and 4 bedrooms of varying sizes. One is my home office, two are actual bedrooms and one is the home of bunnies. (very spoiled house rabbits)
Having a GFCI is always a very good thing, but be aware that using an isolation transformer can defeat their effectiveness, causing you to not be protected if you get your fingers tangled in high voltage on the secondary side.
The GFCIs work by detecting a current imbalance between active & neutral, which implies that there is a leakage via ground somewhere.
If you touch the secondary of a 1:1 transformer, you will get just as serious a shock as if you touched the mains but the current in the primary will remain balanced and the GFCI will not trip.
The GFCIs work by detecting a current imbalance between active & neutral, which implies that there is a leakage via ground somewhere.
If you touch the secondary of a 1:1 transformer, you will get just as serious a shock as if you touched the mains but the current in the primary will remain balanced and the GFCI will not trip.
Provided the inter-winding capacitance is low between primary and secondary and the windings are floating you won't generally get a shock when you touch one side of the secondary winding, this why we use isolation transformers to service old AA5 and other devices with a live chassis.
Also we were talking about using GFI/GFCI on the secondary side, they are effective in specific instances where a live chassis has been connected to GND through test equipment and you touch the other side of the isolation transformer secondary.
Also we were talking about using GFI/GFCI on the secondary side, they are effective in specific instances where a live chassis has been connected to GND through test equipment and you touch the other side of the isolation transformer secondary.
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LOL ... spoiled house rabbits
What is pictured is the extent of the damage that I caused. Thanks for the polyimide tape advice.
Is 1 mil, 4.5kV rating sufficient? (I see some rated 7.5kV.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZZG76B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3R9MID6XQDUNZ&th=1
ps, what is AA5 that you refer to? I am guessing this:
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