Hi, first I would like to say I really enjoy repairing car amps. I have repaired a bunch, but still don't know enough about them, maybe I can learn more from this site. I really want to learn as much as I can about them. I am pretty good at soldering and de-soldering, as I do a lot of CB radio work and building projects (when I get extra time to build them). Again, still have a lot to learn. I have a couple other amps I may post about later on as I have been having trouble repairing them, maybe I will get to those soon. Thank You for reading all of this, but on to my amp trouble.
Ok, I purchased a JL AUDIO 1000/1 in its current condition as I planned on repairing it. This amp looks a little more complicated than I am use to, so I am not sure if I will do any work to it. I will see what some of you have to say. I would really like to repair it as I am curious how it sounds, I have owned the JL AUDIO 250/1 and it is very nice, but was hoping to here this one too.
Here is what it does. When I apply power to it, it turns on, all of the lights on the top (or most of them) click on for under a second, then the green POWER ON light stays on by its self, as it would normally do, so it seems as if it is operating properly.
When I hook up a subwoofer to it, it seems normal, NO DC on the outputs or no shutting down.
When I make adjustments everything seems fine.
But, when I connect my head unit through the RCA INPUTS the amp has no sound output. But when I INCREASE the INPUT SENS. control, to a little past mid point it lightly buzzes through my speakers. It does this from a little past mid point to all the way up. If I crank up my head units volume control really loud, I can here VERY, VERY light music wanting to come through, you have to listen really close to here it through the light buzz or hum, but its there, I must keep the LEVEL control to where it buzzes to hear the music. When I touch the RCA GROUND or outer SHIELD part of the connector it buzzes worse. When I touch the RCA SHIELD and amp case it buzzes even worse I think. However, None of the buzzing is real loud.
Without my head unit connected to the amp I can adjust the Input SENS control to any point without buzzing or humming, only when the RCA's are connected does it do that. I know my head unit works fine as I tested one of my Precision Audio amps on it afterwards.
When I move the Mode / Slope switch the speaker makes a pop noise, same with the Bass EQ switch, although I have had this happen with other amps when they are on and you move a switch. The speakers move quite a bit from that, but not enough to damage them You possibly are suppose to have the amp off when moving some of the switches anyway.
None of the Power supply or Output transistor heat up while it’s running. One of the larger white resistors by the filter caps seem to get hot, but it is a higher watt one so it probably gets hotter anyway.
The power supply transformer gets a little warm but nothing out of the ordinary. The two yellow transformers or chokes or whatever they are get a little warm as well, but again not alarming, just warm.
The amp draws a little over 3 amps while idling.
I do my amp testing either through a low resistance higher watt resistor, or on my low 5 amp power supplies that have circuit breakers that blow if the current gets a little to high. I either use the two power supplies together or separate for lower current 2.5 amps, they seem to work ok for testing. I use a 45-amp continuous power supply for higher power amp testing. I also use a 10 or 5 amp fuse while trouble shooting and repairing.
The amp on the inside looks REALLY clean, I do see on one of the SURFACE MOUNT transistors by the RCA input connectors VERY, I mean EXTREMELY light corrosion on 2 of the pins. Looks like from moisture. It is still making good contact. Could the Input Sens. Potentiometer be causing a problem if it’s corroded or something? Maybe some switches?
I can take pictures of the inside of the amp with my digital camera if needed.
Ok, I hope I covered everything, if not, I will post back. Thanks to anyone who took the time to read this post and for possibly helping me out. I would love to here this amp play🙂 Thanks again. Kyle
Ok, I purchased a JL AUDIO 1000/1 in its current condition as I planned on repairing it. This amp looks a little more complicated than I am use to, so I am not sure if I will do any work to it. I will see what some of you have to say. I would really like to repair it as I am curious how it sounds, I have owned the JL AUDIO 250/1 and it is very nice, but was hoping to here this one too.
Here is what it does. When I apply power to it, it turns on, all of the lights on the top (or most of them) click on for under a second, then the green POWER ON light stays on by its self, as it would normally do, so it seems as if it is operating properly.
When I hook up a subwoofer to it, it seems normal, NO DC on the outputs or no shutting down.
When I make adjustments everything seems fine.
But, when I connect my head unit through the RCA INPUTS the amp has no sound output. But when I INCREASE the INPUT SENS. control, to a little past mid point it lightly buzzes through my speakers. It does this from a little past mid point to all the way up. If I crank up my head units volume control really loud, I can here VERY, VERY light music wanting to come through, you have to listen really close to here it through the light buzz or hum, but its there, I must keep the LEVEL control to where it buzzes to hear the music. When I touch the RCA GROUND or outer SHIELD part of the connector it buzzes worse. When I touch the RCA SHIELD and amp case it buzzes even worse I think. However, None of the buzzing is real loud.
Without my head unit connected to the amp I can adjust the Input SENS control to any point without buzzing or humming, only when the RCA's are connected does it do that. I know my head unit works fine as I tested one of my Precision Audio amps on it afterwards.
When I move the Mode / Slope switch the speaker makes a pop noise, same with the Bass EQ switch, although I have had this happen with other amps when they are on and you move a switch. The speakers move quite a bit from that, but not enough to damage them You possibly are suppose to have the amp off when moving some of the switches anyway.
None of the Power supply or Output transistor heat up while it’s running. One of the larger white resistors by the filter caps seem to get hot, but it is a higher watt one so it probably gets hotter anyway.
The power supply transformer gets a little warm but nothing out of the ordinary. The two yellow transformers or chokes or whatever they are get a little warm as well, but again not alarming, just warm.
The amp draws a little over 3 amps while idling.
I do my amp testing either through a low resistance higher watt resistor, or on my low 5 amp power supplies that have circuit breakers that blow if the current gets a little to high. I either use the two power supplies together or separate for lower current 2.5 amps, they seem to work ok for testing. I use a 45-amp continuous power supply for higher power amp testing. I also use a 10 or 5 amp fuse while trouble shooting and repairing.
The amp on the inside looks REALLY clean, I do see on one of the SURFACE MOUNT transistors by the RCA input connectors VERY, I mean EXTREMELY light corrosion on 2 of the pins. Looks like from moisture. It is still making good contact. Could the Input Sens. Potentiometer be causing a problem if it’s corroded or something? Maybe some switches?
I can take pictures of the inside of the amp with my digital camera if needed.
Ok, I hope I covered everything, if not, I will post back. Thanks to anyone who took the time to read this post and for possibly helping me out. I would love to here this amp play🙂 Thanks again. Kyle
I don't have a lot of experience with thie amp but if it's like the rest of the JL class D amps, it should have DC on the speaker outputs (black meter lead on chassis ground to measure). Someone should correct me if this isn't the case for this amp.
Near the point of light corrosion, do you see any holes (feed-throughs) that look brown/rusty or otherwise show signs of corrosion?
You should realize that this amp is very complex (probably the most complex amp on the market). If you make a mistake, it can cause a lot of damage.
Near the point of light corrosion, do you see any holes (feed-throughs) that look brown/rusty or otherwise show signs of corrosion?
You should realize that this amp is very complex (probably the most complex amp on the market). If you make a mistake, it can cause a lot of damage.
Thank You Perry Babin for the reply!
I checked the place of corrosion and as far as I can tell that is the only problem, just that VERY light little bit. There is none that are brown or rusty, none of the holes that I can see. The little bit of corrosion I see may be just starting and has not had a chance to get very big.
I could tell right away this amp is a little more complex then the other amps I have repaired. Looks like they really utilized space when they designed this amp. A lot of Surface Mount parts, I have done a little bit of work with surface mount parts before, but it can be tricky.
I am not going to do any work on this amplifier. I have decided I am just going to sell it and wait until I get more experience before I work on any amps like that, (unless I can get one cheap to learn on). It is unfortunate I will not get to here this amp, but I do not want to make its problem worse. 🙁
Thanks again for your help / info, maybe you will be able to help me on the next amps I need some help on. I hope I will get a chance to post one of those amps soon. Again my Thanks🙂 Kyle
I checked the place of corrosion and as far as I can tell that is the only problem, just that VERY light little bit. There is none that are brown or rusty, none of the holes that I can see. The little bit of corrosion I see may be just starting and has not had a chance to get very big.
I could tell right away this amp is a little more complex then the other amps I have repaired. Looks like they really utilized space when they designed this amp. A lot of Surface Mount parts, I have done a little bit of work with surface mount parts before, but it can be tricky.
I am not going to do any work on this amplifier. I have decided I am just going to sell it and wait until I get more experience before I work on any amps like that, (unless I can get one cheap to learn on). It is unfortunate I will not get to here this amp, but I do not want to make its problem worse. 🙁
Thanks again for your help / info, maybe you will be able to help me on the next amps I need some help on. I hope I will get a chance to post one of those amps soon. Again my Thanks🙂 Kyle
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