Hello all,
I am looking at building a pair of larger format speakers, and would appreciate some guidance as seem to be continually diverging in options..
I am looking for a pair that offer great transient response, and a grip over the air that you find with large PA speakers (call that kick, tactility, presence, whatever you want) with of course great sound quality across the board. Normally used for home levels, I would also like to play them loud a little every now and then. They may well be supplemented by subwoofers, and so I am happy for an F3 below 70Hz if needed to keep sizes sensible.
I mainly listen to electronic genres (drum and bass, techno), but also really enjoy a wider variety from jazz and classical to dub reggae. The room they’re going into is a large living room (24m2), with a wide sweet spot ideally, as we (spouse included) are rarely still in there. Floor plan below includes 35cmx45cm speaker footprints (~ maximum ideal size) and 90 degree dispersion markers:
My budget is ideally 1000 GBP / EUR for the drivers (UK based). Plus whatever amplification and processing. I will be adding all parts from new from this - so a completely blank sheet. My build skills are good, and aside from trying to not take more time than needed - I am happy with complexity of most projects. I also have access to large format 3D printers, and am anticipating using these for waveguides or ports.
I have been on a bit of a journey with the options, and am after some advice as to which is the best route. I am of the mind that I require a large membrane area of 12” or 15” for the mid/bass, and am quite keen on the sound of horns. I prefer to drive the speakers active due to my preference to be able to tune via DSP and inexperience with crossovers. I am anticipating buying a MiniDSP flex eight (8 way DSP w/ Dirac) to handle all IO and crossover duties, then passed onto an array of class D amplifiers. I prefer PA components where possible.
One area that I am not so familiar with is the power response, and continually read the importance of this amongst the more standard parameters (phase, spl, distortion, etc). I am aware that with horn loading this may bite me if not careful.
The options are:
Option A: Own concept 1
Large format 1.4” horn above 12” driver. Supertweeter a potential addition to supplement 10kHz+
Example components:
Compression tweeter Ciare CT440, 8 ohm, 1.25 inch
18 Sound XR1496C horn, for 1.4 inch compression driver
18 Sound ND3T compression driver, 8 ohm, 1.4 inch exit
18 Sound 12MB700 speaker, 8 ohm, 12 inch
Option B: Own concept 2
1” compression driver above paper midrange and 12” driver.
Example components:
Compression driver B&C Speakers DE360, 16 ohm, 1.0 inch throat diameter
Sica horn 200 x160 mm, for 1 inch Sica CD83.26/380, CD78.26/245 and CD78.26/N92
Compression driver B&C Speakers DE360, 16 ohm, 1.0 inch throat diameter
18 Sound 12MB700 speaker, 8 ohm, 12 inch
Option C: TL-3
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/The-Loudspeaker-III.htm
But driven actively, and reduced box volume or smaller driver to raise F3 to decrease size
Option D: Nova Andromeda
Nova-Andromeda.html
Driven actively. Tweeter blows the budget a little and I am not a big fan of the Faital midrange, having used one before.
Option E: Mezzo Calpamos
Mezzo-Calpamos.html
Driven actively. Potentially a very good fit, but I am not sure about the integration of the small bi-radial and the woofer
Option F: OSMC
osmc_paper.pdf
Driven actively. Really like the size and format - and that Volt midrange is the stuff of dreams. Problem is it’s 3x over budget.
Thanks in advance, your thoughts are appreciated as I muddle my way through this decision..
I am looking at building a pair of larger format speakers, and would appreciate some guidance as seem to be continually diverging in options..
I am looking for a pair that offer great transient response, and a grip over the air that you find with large PA speakers (call that kick, tactility, presence, whatever you want) with of course great sound quality across the board. Normally used for home levels, I would also like to play them loud a little every now and then. They may well be supplemented by subwoofers, and so I am happy for an F3 below 70Hz if needed to keep sizes sensible.
I mainly listen to electronic genres (drum and bass, techno), but also really enjoy a wider variety from jazz and classical to dub reggae. The room they’re going into is a large living room (24m2), with a wide sweet spot ideally, as we (spouse included) are rarely still in there. Floor plan below includes 35cmx45cm speaker footprints (~ maximum ideal size) and 90 degree dispersion markers:
My budget is ideally 1000 GBP / EUR for the drivers (UK based). Plus whatever amplification and processing. I will be adding all parts from new from this - so a completely blank sheet. My build skills are good, and aside from trying to not take more time than needed - I am happy with complexity of most projects. I also have access to large format 3D printers, and am anticipating using these for waveguides or ports.
I have been on a bit of a journey with the options, and am after some advice as to which is the best route. I am of the mind that I require a large membrane area of 12” or 15” for the mid/bass, and am quite keen on the sound of horns. I prefer to drive the speakers active due to my preference to be able to tune via DSP and inexperience with crossovers. I am anticipating buying a MiniDSP flex eight (8 way DSP w/ Dirac) to handle all IO and crossover duties, then passed onto an array of class D amplifiers. I prefer PA components where possible.
One area that I am not so familiar with is the power response, and continually read the importance of this amongst the more standard parameters (phase, spl, distortion, etc). I am aware that with horn loading this may bite me if not careful.
The options are:
Option A: Own concept 1
Large format 1.4” horn above 12” driver. Supertweeter a potential addition to supplement 10kHz+
Example components:
Compression tweeter Ciare CT440, 8 ohm, 1.25 inch
18 Sound XR1496C horn, for 1.4 inch compression driver
18 Sound ND3T compression driver, 8 ohm, 1.4 inch exit
18 Sound 12MB700 speaker, 8 ohm, 12 inch
Option B: Own concept 2
1” compression driver above paper midrange and 12” driver.
Example components:
Compression driver B&C Speakers DE360, 16 ohm, 1.0 inch throat diameter
Sica horn 200 x160 mm, for 1 inch Sica CD83.26/380, CD78.26/245 and CD78.26/N92
Compression driver B&C Speakers DE360, 16 ohm, 1.0 inch throat diameter
18 Sound 12MB700 speaker, 8 ohm, 12 inch
Option C: TL-3
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/The-Loudspeaker-III.htm
But driven actively, and reduced box volume or smaller driver to raise F3 to decrease size
Option D: Nova Andromeda
Nova-Andromeda.html
Driven actively. Tweeter blows the budget a little and I am not a big fan of the Faital midrange, having used one before.
Option E: Mezzo Calpamos
Mezzo-Calpamos.html
Driven actively. Potentially a very good fit, but I am not sure about the integration of the small bi-radial and the woofer
Option F: OSMC
osmc_paper.pdf
Driven actively. Really like the size and format - and that Volt midrange is the stuff of dreams. Problem is it’s 3x over budget.
Thanks in advance, your thoughts are appreciated as I muddle my way through this decision..
Questions:
- Option B - which midrange(s) are you thinking of?
- Option C - if the TL3 is too large, why not the Faital 3WC-10/12? Significantly altering an existing design like TL3 sounds like a nightmare, and you will have to pay Troels to get the original crossover values to start with.
- Option F - how to convert a passive design to active? The OSMCs were indeed developed using MiniDSP before designing a passive crossover, but the latter was found to sound much better than the MiniDSP approach.
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Since you have access to 3D printers....go for one of the waveguides on the ATH thread. You won't find better anywhere else. HF108 is a popular driver.
https://at-horns.eu/
Put those on top of these (or the 15" version).
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/br...8-sound-12ntlw3500-speaker-8-ohm-12-inch.html
Tune low and eq as necessary.
https://at-horns.eu/
Put those on top of these (or the 15" version).
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/br...8-sound-12ntlw3500-speaker-8-ohm-12-inch.html
Tune low and eq as necessary.
Don't bother with Mezzo Calpamos and similar designs featuring buttcheek horns.
Such horns are badly terminated, suffer from huge diffraction and throat/mouth reflection problems and overall obsolete. They have nothing going for them besides wide dispersion. Attached plots:
1)horizontal axial and off-axis FRs of JBL 4425, measured at 70 cm in 15 deg increments, 5 ms gate
2)same data, but as (incomplete - missing vertiacal orbit) spinorama and normalized sonogram
Strictly speaking, it's not JBL4425 per se, but JBL 4425 as part of a larger cardioid prototype system, but everything from ~1700 Hz is JBL's butthorn, working as designer intended.
As for the larger question - I would probably make DIYSG HTM-12v2 ( https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/diysg-htm-12v2-review.24215/ ) or a custom design with 3D printed ATHorn. Like a recent design from vineethkumar01, for example: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/a-3-way-design-study.376620/post-7157498
But keep in mind relatively narrow dispersion of ST260 horn he used (DI rising from 11 dB at 1 kHz to 14 dB at 16 kHz) ; you may prefer something wider, like 7-10 dB SEOS-12.
Such horns are badly terminated, suffer from huge diffraction and throat/mouth reflection problems and overall obsolete. They have nothing going for them besides wide dispersion. Attached plots:
1)horizontal axial and off-axis FRs of JBL 4425, measured at 70 cm in 15 deg increments, 5 ms gate
2)same data, but as (incomplete - missing vertiacal orbit) spinorama and normalized sonogram
Strictly speaking, it's not JBL4425 per se, but JBL 4425 as part of a larger cardioid prototype system, but everything from ~1700 Hz is JBL's butthorn, working as designer intended.
As for the larger question - I would probably make DIYSG HTM-12v2 ( https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/diysg-htm-12v2-review.24215/ ) or a custom design with 3D printed ATHorn. Like a recent design from vineethkumar01, for example: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/a-3-way-design-study.376620/post-7157498
But keep in mind relatively narrow dispersion of ST260 horn he used (DI rising from 11 dB at 1 kHz to 14 dB at 16 kHz) ; you may prefer something wider, like 7-10 dB SEOS-12.
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I'm an EDM guy also. Some thoughts:
I own a set of Yamaha DXR12s, and they definitely have that "thing" going for them, where they "slam" with EDM music. The Yamahas use a 12" woofer and a 12" waveguide. One could create something comparable to them using ATH.
I own a set of Unity horns (theyre' actually for sale: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bill-waslo-cosyne-unity-horns.390539/). Although the Unity horns "image" better than the Yamahas do, they don't have that same "slam."
The main speakers in my living room are Behringer B2030Ps at the moment. They don't "slam" like the DXR12s, and they don't image as well as the Unity horns, but there's a nice balance of "WAF / imaging / dynamics."
I'm not entirely sure if the "slam" factor of the Yamahas is because of their 12" midrange and kilowatt amplifier, or if "slam" may be related to harmonic distortion. The Yamahas have that "slam" at any volume level, so my hunch is that it might be distortion.
IE, if that "slam" that you get with big midranges was purely related to efficiency, we would expect that the speakers would only offer that "slam" at high volumes. The idea that the Yamaha's efficiency and headroom is allowing it to be more "dynamic" than my Unity horns.
But that's not the case with the Yamahas; they "slam" at even low volumes. Therefore, my hunch is that "slam" is probably tied to distortion. Basically there's some distortion that's euphonic. (Probably 2nd order.)
If my hunch is true, there's two possible solutions:
1) The easy way: get something like a Yamaha DXR12. It delivers the sound you're looking for, I think. I believe it's "dynamic" because it has a cheap 12" midrange. Whether the secret is "efficiency" or "2nd harmonic distortion" is open to debate.
2) The hard way: Use a speaker that is smaller and has lower distortion and then "add" the distortion back in via some filter or an amp that distorts. In my office, I'm listening to some small low-distortion speakers but paired with a clone of an amp that has somewhat high euphonic distortion: https://www.stereophile.com/content/pass-labs-aleph-3-power-amplifier-measurements
Then again, I could be completely wrong. Perhaps my office systems doesn't sound good because the amp is producing euphonic distortion; perhaps the Class A amp simply sounds better than the Class D amp in the Yamaha.
I'm not entirely sure, but both systems sound very different. In fact, I think I might just swap the two systems and see which I prefer better. (At the moment, I have the Yamahas in my home theater, and the Infinity ILS in my office.)
I own a set of Yamaha DXR12s, and they definitely have that "thing" going for them, where they "slam" with EDM music. The Yamahas use a 12" woofer and a 12" waveguide. One could create something comparable to them using ATH.
I own a set of Unity horns (theyre' actually for sale: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bill-waslo-cosyne-unity-horns.390539/). Although the Unity horns "image" better than the Yamahas do, they don't have that same "slam."
The main speakers in my living room are Behringer B2030Ps at the moment. They don't "slam" like the DXR12s, and they don't image as well as the Unity horns, but there's a nice balance of "WAF / imaging / dynamics."
I'm not entirely sure if the "slam" factor of the Yamahas is because of their 12" midrange and kilowatt amplifier, or if "slam" may be related to harmonic distortion. The Yamahas have that "slam" at any volume level, so my hunch is that it might be distortion.
IE, if that "slam" that you get with big midranges was purely related to efficiency, we would expect that the speakers would only offer that "slam" at high volumes. The idea that the Yamaha's efficiency and headroom is allowing it to be more "dynamic" than my Unity horns.
But that's not the case with the Yamahas; they "slam" at even low volumes. Therefore, my hunch is that "slam" is probably tied to distortion. Basically there's some distortion that's euphonic. (Probably 2nd order.)
If my hunch is true, there's two possible solutions:
1) The easy way: get something like a Yamaha DXR12. It delivers the sound you're looking for, I think. I believe it's "dynamic" because it has a cheap 12" midrange. Whether the secret is "efficiency" or "2nd harmonic distortion" is open to debate.
2) The hard way: Use a speaker that is smaller and has lower distortion and then "add" the distortion back in via some filter or an amp that distorts. In my office, I'm listening to some small low-distortion speakers but paired with a clone of an amp that has somewhat high euphonic distortion: https://www.stereophile.com/content/pass-labs-aleph-3-power-amplifier-measurements
Then again, I could be completely wrong. Perhaps my office systems doesn't sound good because the amp is producing euphonic distortion; perhaps the Class A amp simply sounds better than the Class D amp in the Yamaha.
I'm not entirely sure, but both systems sound very different. In fact, I think I might just swap the two systems and see which I prefer better. (At the moment, I have the Yamahas in my home theater, and the Infinity ILS in my office.)
First of all, thanks all for taking the time to reply, great to see all the different opinions and approaches.
PeteMcK: I agree, the format of the Mezzo Calpamos is the most appealing to me too. I will try and address some of the shortcomings (as I see them).
Maximax77:
I was thinking of a low mms, high BL in a highly damped chamber. That was as far as I got!
I am going off the idea of a 3 way, but those Faitals otherwise look good! I hadn't seen them in his collection of designs. I agree with the sentiment of having to change drivers, crossovers, etc....
And thanks for the tip on the OSMC. I saw that mentioned in my skimming of the (comprehensive!) thread. Interesting that the passive proved superior. For me I think the AIO minidsp solution may be the simplest way for me to get 'up and running'.
ErnieM: Firstly, wow, what a driver. I need to compare it to similar options (BMS, beyma, B&C, etc) to see if their marketing on the distortion holds true. Either way, I think it could be quite fun having a 900W AES driver, never seeing more than 10W RMS in a home setting!
But yes, I really like your thinking of a custom waveguide above a high quality mid/bass. I have been given a hot tip of the ND3SN as the CD to sit above. Something feels nice about being from the same company.
VoxCelestial: Funny you mention the issue with the Buttcheeks. I was walking earlier trying to come to terms with the rear-ended appearance of them and wondering about how they dealt with severe diffraction. They don't. Makes that choice easier.
Thanks for the link to the DIYSG HTM-12v2. An extremely impressive solution for the price it seems. I will look into the SEOS-12 horns! (I also need to learn what DI is).
Latest thinking:
Currently I am envisioning a Mezzo Calpamos format of a 12" lower bass cabinet with wood veneer with a naked PU concrete effect (flooring resin) 100x40 degree horn with 1,4" CD on top. I will likely design and cast it myself from 3D printed moulds (fingers crossed).
Driver Wishlist is one 12NTLW3500 and ND3SN (thanks for the tip!) per speaker. Coming in just about on budget. Next steps are to start data sheeting and working out how other options performance compare to the baseline. I also need to investigate sealed vs ported designs for the bass, reducing GD and mid leakage. Potentially with scope to have a 'party port' I can unplug (no sniggers in the back) for more efficiency.
PeteMcK: I agree, the format of the Mezzo Calpamos is the most appealing to me too. I will try and address some of the shortcomings (as I see them).
Maximax77:
I was thinking of a low mms, high BL in a highly damped chamber. That was as far as I got!
I am going off the idea of a 3 way, but those Faitals otherwise look good! I hadn't seen them in his collection of designs. I agree with the sentiment of having to change drivers, crossovers, etc....
And thanks for the tip on the OSMC. I saw that mentioned in my skimming of the (comprehensive!) thread. Interesting that the passive proved superior. For me I think the AIO minidsp solution may be the simplest way for me to get 'up and running'.
ErnieM: Firstly, wow, what a driver. I need to compare it to similar options (BMS, beyma, B&C, etc) to see if their marketing on the distortion holds true. Either way, I think it could be quite fun having a 900W AES driver, never seeing more than 10W RMS in a home setting!
But yes, I really like your thinking of a custom waveguide above a high quality mid/bass. I have been given a hot tip of the ND3SN as the CD to sit above. Something feels nice about being from the same company.
VoxCelestial: Funny you mention the issue with the Buttcheeks. I was walking earlier trying to come to terms with the rear-ended appearance of them and wondering about how they dealt with severe diffraction. They don't. Makes that choice easier.
Thanks for the link to the DIYSG HTM-12v2. An extremely impressive solution for the price it seems. I will look into the SEOS-12 horns! (I also need to learn what DI is).
Latest thinking:
Currently I am envisioning a Mezzo Calpamos format of a 12" lower bass cabinet with wood veneer with a naked PU concrete effect (flooring resin) 100x40 degree horn with 1,4" CD on top. I will likely design and cast it myself from 3D printed moulds (fingers crossed).
Driver Wishlist is one 12NTLW3500 and ND3SN (thanks for the tip!) per speaker. Coming in just about on budget. Next steps are to start data sheeting and working out how other options performance compare to the baseline. I also need to investigate sealed vs ported designs for the bass, reducing GD and mid leakage. Potentially with scope to have a 'party port' I can unplug (no sniggers in the back) for more efficiency.
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Have you messed around with the D-Contour switch? I can see multiband level dependent compression making quite a difference...
There's a lot to like with these FIR corrected powered PA tops. I bought an EAW top as a reference. Measurements very well and sounds excellent. I tested it outdoors on top of two Eminence 21". Big detailed sound.
Zerokelvin99: I suggest trying a FIR corrected powered 2-way PA speaker in your room to get a reference of what to expect(and what's possible).
QSC K.2 series and Yamaha DXRII are good boxes to try on a budget.
I am not sure whether the 12ntlw has any advantage at home listening levels. It seems to have higher 3rd order distortion levels than 2nd order.
I am convinced that the 18s guys are not stupid and did develop it for a reason. And I assume its advantages are at very loud levels. There is also the 12nlw9300 which is used in the Unison Max 1 speaker.
And yes, if going for the 18s 1.4" drivers I would also choose the nd3n or nd3sn.
Regards
Charles
I am convinced that the 18s guys are not stupid and did develop it for a reason. And I assume its advantages are at very loud levels. There is also the 12nlw9300 which is used in the Unison Max 1 speaker.
And yes, if going for the 18s 1.4" drivers I would also choose the nd3n or nd3sn.
Regards
Charles
You shouldn't go too far wrong with a decent 1" compression drivers/mildly ported 10" mids and a pair of 60l sealed 18" subs on that budget if transient response and dynamic range are your priorities. Supertweeter never needed, and consider a decent class AB amp for the HF, not digital; budget for a 2kW amp for the subs. You couldn't bear that lot at full throttle in your space for very long, and it gives you incredible headroom at normal levels when you consider the HF will be around 110dB/W 1m sensitivity... This sort of setup in a pub sized venue requires HP filtering to avoid turntable feedback, and would knock dust off the rafters in my 100m2 warehouse loft. It images very well too!
Patrick Bateman: Thanks for the feedback. Yes, a 12"driver + 12"wg is the current line of thinking. I have seen Unities discussed for years now, and am ever curious but feel they may be a little more than I can chew - and slightly too intrusive too.
Interesting you feel it's tied to distortion, I feel the opposite - given the tactility of the sensation almost before the sound. You raise a point, I will have sessions of amp vs. amp coming up - at the moment most of my kit is below the transparency needed to hear real differences.
Phase_accurate I have requested distortion data from 18sound, hopefully they'll get back to me. I agree that it seems that the NTLW is meant for linearity at high excursion / SPL. I seem to get both models for the same price, so will have to see what the differences are. Shallow as it is, I do prefer the look of the cone on the NTLW
MrKlinky Sounds like my university system (sorry neighbours). Sadly I can't get away with those antics now, even if it would provide absurd headroom and hopefully corresponding low distortion.
Nigelwright I have built with 250TCs beforehand! Great driver, but am looking to push the boat out a little with this one.
Update from my end - I have returned back to the country and made a mockup of the Calpamos size and it may cause some issues with the depth & perceived cabinet volume. Had a quick check and with Vb = 40L:
Sealed cabinet
Qtc = 0,45 (how low is too low?)
F3 = 135.9Hz
-6.7dB @ 80Hz. With room gain I expect EQ / power requirements to decrease at this point,
Vented cabinet
Fb = 60Hz
F3 = 57Hz
Seems it could be in line with the "party plug" concept. Lower than expected Vbs can give plenty of flexibility with cabinet tapers at least.
Green is sealed cabinet, red vented..
Interesting you feel it's tied to distortion, I feel the opposite - given the tactility of the sensation almost before the sound. You raise a point, I will have sessions of amp vs. amp coming up - at the moment most of my kit is below the transparency needed to hear real differences.
Phase_accurate I have requested distortion data from 18sound, hopefully they'll get back to me. I agree that it seems that the NTLW is meant for linearity at high excursion / SPL. I seem to get both models for the same price, so will have to see what the differences are. Shallow as it is, I do prefer the look of the cone on the NTLW
MrKlinky Sounds like my university system (sorry neighbours). Sadly I can't get away with those antics now, even if it would provide absurd headroom and hopefully corresponding low distortion.
Nigelwright I have built with 250TCs beforehand! Great driver, but am looking to push the boat out a little with this one.
Update from my end - I have returned back to the country and made a mockup of the Calpamos size and it may cause some issues with the depth & perceived cabinet volume. Had a quick check and with Vb = 40L:
Sealed cabinet
Qtc = 0,45 (how low is too low?)
F3 = 135.9Hz
-6.7dB @ 80Hz. With room gain I expect EQ / power requirements to decrease at this point,
Vented cabinet
Fb = 60Hz
F3 = 57Hz
Seems it could be in line with the "party plug" concept. Lower than expected Vbs can give plenty of flexibility with cabinet tapers at least.
Green is sealed cabinet, red vented..
To my ear, the sound quality and transient response of sealed subs far outweighs their poor efficiency when compared with ported enclosures. Horses for courses, but in these these times of cheap high-powered amps and affordable kilowatt-rated drivers it's no issue really.
if you can push the budget, perhaps a coaxial HF/MF driver and 10" might fit the bill. I don't want to teach you to suck eggs, but Blue Aran is a company I uses exclusively for all my drivers.
if you can push the budget, perhaps a coaxial HF/MF driver and 10" might fit the bill. I don't want to teach you to suck eggs, but Blue Aran is a company I uses exclusively for all my drivers.
Is that your couch against the back wall? If so pull it off the wall a few feet, tough to get good sound with the wall right behind you.
Mrklinky regarding the sealed aspect, I’m inclined to agree. Even good class D power (ncore) is relatively cheap per watt now. Stepping up to PA rackmount or IRS2092, even more so. Just have to be more aware of cooling in sealed boxes.. Thick wood covered in insulation is pretty awful for heat transfer.
Regards coax, yes- I keep looking at the BMS coaxes, they’re not too far off. If I’m going for custom horns then there’s the capability to make the most of them. I’ll have to have a think on that!
Thanks, very familiar with blue Aran. Hasn’t been mentioned here, but I have access to preferable pricing structure with TLHP and options for customs fees.
mordikai that is a fireplace plinth! We are still unsure of the layout (new house), but will likely have the listening position spaced out as you pointed out. I need to build the absorbers back in as well for 2nd reflections and general damping. We do have 24m2 of heavy felt (approx 12kg) in the curtains which will be fantastic for some mf /hf absorption
Regards coax, yes- I keep looking at the BMS coaxes, they’re not too far off. If I’m going for custom horns then there’s the capability to make the most of them. I’ll have to have a think on that!
Thanks, very familiar with blue Aran. Hasn’t been mentioned here, but I have access to preferable pricing structure with TLHP and options for customs fees.
mordikai that is a fireplace plinth! We are still unsure of the layout (new house), but will likely have the listening position spaced out as you pointed out. I need to build the absorbers back in as well for 2nd reflections and general damping. We do have 24m2 of heavy felt (approx 12kg) in the curtains which will be fantastic for some mf /hf absorption
Agreed, but there are other mounting options...
BTW, the BMS 4594 is very very good, but I suspect that the new B&C offerings must be better!
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- Sealed boxes also avoid the whole port resonance issue, especially for giant long ports.
- Is the heat transfer really much of a problem in residential settings? Movies don't have continuous lows endlessly, and even if I'm cranking up UFO's Strangers In The Night etc, I can't manage to do that for too long before wife or kid comes home "DAD I can hear you out in the front yard!!!"
- Maybe the sealed box could have a tight-sealing ventilation flap, which would motorize open between particularly vigorous selections, all controlled from an app or home automation system. Perhaps it would automatically open at a preset temperature, rather how some supercars raise a wing at a given speed. Heck the flap could uncover a low-tuned port and the automation would send a signal to reconfigure the DSP equalization. And cure cancer and all disease and usher in world peace liberal and conservative, democratic and autocratic, religious and not, cable believers and cable deniers...OK not the last, not possible in this universe...
I agree, sealed for domestic is likely a non-issue. I have had experience with sealed mids in PA cooking themselves, hence my slight reservations. At least if there's an optional port then I can release some extra efficiency 60-120Hz if needed, with extra cooling to boot.
Shame that drivers don't offer clean output to 1kHz when flipped!
And hah! That auto-flap sounds like an ideal rabbit hole to fall down! Why bother making just a speaker when I can bite off more than I can chew in multiple areas 😀. I will probably thermocouple up the rear magnet anyway, more out of curiosity than anything else.
Shame that drivers don't offer clean output to 1kHz when flipped!
And hah! That auto-flap sounds like an ideal rabbit hole to fall down! Why bother making just a speaker when I can bite off more than I can chew in multiple areas 😀. I will probably thermocouple up the rear magnet anyway, more out of curiosity than anything else.