Hi all
I , uhm, I think I have managed to lift a solder-pad by overheating it. Sorry I forgot to take pictures, but, before soldering the part there was that little ring—the pad—looking upwards on the opposite side of the track.
I then cowardly soldered that pad and it looks as if nothing happened.
I shall be optimistic until proven orherwise, what are the methods to fix a such damaged pcb?
Thanks!
I , uhm, I think I have managed to lift a solder-pad by overheating it. Sorry I forgot to take pictures, but, before soldering the part there was that little ring—the pad—looking upwards on the opposite side of the track.
I then cowardly soldered that pad and it looks as if nothing happened.
I shall be optimistic until proven orherwise, what are the methods to fix a such damaged pcb?
Thanks!
Did you use a DMM to verify that everything is still connected?
Unless its a really small pad, if the DMM test fails, I would figure out what needs to be connected and use a piece of wire to make the connection.
Sometimes you need to scrap off soldermask with an exacto knife of similar to solder to traces to make this type of repair.
But every repair is a little different, really need pictures of what happened to give a better answer.
Unless its a really small pad, if the DMM test fails, I would figure out what needs to be connected and use a piece of wire to make the connection.
Sometimes you need to scrap off soldermask with an exacto knife of similar to solder to traces to make this type of repair.
But every repair is a little different, really need pictures of what happened to give a better answer.
Thanks, Randytsuch!
No, didn't measure anything yet.
I was considering something like your proposed remedy.
Will have to check if it's damaged/broken or not. (I'm confident that it's damaged but not broken!)
Pics come tomorrow!
No, didn't measure anything yet.
I was considering something like your proposed remedy.
Will have to check if it's damaged/broken or not. (I'm confident that it's damaged but not broken!)
Pics come tomorrow!
If the pad was lifted at an angle but track still not broken, you can re-glue it in place.
Mix a little epoxy (a drop worth) and apply it to PCB surface where pad used to be , just the tiniest amount that "wets" it, with the tip of a toothpick.
Then bend and press down in place the pad with a clean toothpck (so as not to contaminate its top) and apply solder tip for a second or two, just to heat it.
It will bubble and ooze around, and harden in a few seconds.
Maybe reheat once to make certain it cured.
Then clean/open hole with a sewing needle tip and resolder component there.
You can reinforce the bending which is a weak point by slightly scratching surface and applying a little solder.
Hint: original pad was epoxied in place anyway.
Wow, JM, that’s „deep“, thank you.
Now if everything measures ok, would you (should I) try it anyway? Never been there, so there’s a 50/50 chance of failure…
Now if everything measures ok, would you (should I) try it anyway? Never been there, so there’s a 50/50 chance of failure…
I buy from JLCPCB and never had a failed pad despite lots of solder sucking and heat gun work.
Super Glue works on clean surfaces, I use Iso alcohol.
Beware, it gives off fumes during soldering, and I found the local brand 'Fevikwik' is better at high temperatures than Loctite in tubes...
I used it to attach zinc blocks to a foil stamping machine as well as track repairs.
Find a high temperature grade sold in your area, compositions and temperature are different between grades.
Epoxy should work as well, use a fast setting grade if you are fast with your hands.
Or use the old wire patch method.
Most people do not specify high grade board material with the thickest foil, cheap phenolic with thin foil is the cheapest...you will get what you are prepared to buy.
Chinese vendors are said to be honest that way.
You want cheap, sure!
You want best quality, sure, this is my price...
Shop around, and check the board specs when ordering.
Beware, it gives off fumes during soldering, and I found the local brand 'Fevikwik' is better at high temperatures than Loctite in tubes...
I used it to attach zinc blocks to a foil stamping machine as well as track repairs.
Find a high temperature grade sold in your area, compositions and temperature are different between grades.
Epoxy should work as well, use a fast setting grade if you are fast with your hands.
Or use the old wire patch method.
Most people do not specify high grade board material with the thickest foil, cheap phenolic with thin foil is the cheapest...you will get what you are prepared to buy.
Chinese vendors are said to be honest that way.
You want cheap, sure!
You want best quality, sure, this is my price...
Shop around, and check the board specs when ordering.
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The board I hopefully will not have an issue with is a top-notch one for sure…
(I won‘t disclose what board it is because I am ashamed and weary to be spotted) 😳
(I won‘t disclose what board it is because I am ashamed and weary to be spotted) 😳
