Title kinda discribes what I need.
Looking for a amp that doesn't draw much power.
I'm running 8 full range bazzoka marine 8"s. And a 8" subwoofer
Currently set up with a kicker 5 channel Amp puts out about 75 watts a channel at 2ohm. And 300 watt for a sub Which is plenty for the speakers But the amp draws way to much power for my 2 stinger 925 35AH batteries.
Anyone recommend a amp that does not require much battery power. The speaker box does have a on board charger that does 8ah I believe. But doesn't keep up with the draw on the batteries.
70-100 watts a channel should be plenty. And 300 for the subwoofer
Looking for a amp that doesn't draw much power.
I'm running 8 full range bazzoka marine 8"s. And a 8" subwoofer
Currently set up with a kicker 5 channel Amp puts out about 75 watts a channel at 2ohm. And 300 watt for a sub Which is plenty for the speakers But the amp draws way to much power for my 2 stinger 925 35AH batteries.
Anyone recommend a amp that does not require much battery power. The speaker box does have a on board charger that does 8ah I believe. But doesn't keep up with the draw on the batteries.
70-100 watts a channel should be plenty. And 300 for the subwoofer
A good class D would idle at about 5% of max output power, and approach 90% efficiency. So the output power gives you directly the current draw in use as well as idling.
At the end of the day, apart from the idling, the current draw scales almost linearly with power output (for class D).
Jan
At the end of the day, apart from the idling, the current draw scales almost linearly with power output (for class D).
Jan
There is something slightly contradictory with wanting 70-100W per channel, 300W for a subwoofer and then want low power draw.
Class D is, like Jan pointed out, most efficient (least energy loss in heat) but wanting so much power is not an ideal setup when using 2 stinger 925 35Ah batteries. With 2 x 35 Ah batteries changing to a simple 2 channel setup also helps, just like adapting power wishes to a more realistic wattage. If you desperately want that much power on 5 channels you will need more batteries in parallel. I assume you use 12V car equipment on 12V batteries ?
P = U x I. With only 12V you need a lot of Amperes when you want a lot of Watts for a certain time.
* A battery charger must be dimensioned right for the batteries one uses. Your charger is NOT the right charger.
Class D is, like Jan pointed out, most efficient (least energy loss in heat) but wanting so much power is not an ideal setup when using 2 stinger 925 35Ah batteries. With 2 x 35 Ah batteries changing to a simple 2 channel setup also helps, just like adapting power wishes to a more realistic wattage. If you desperately want that much power on 5 channels you will need more batteries in parallel. I assume you use 12V car equipment on 12V batteries ?
P = U x I. With only 12V you need a lot of Amperes when you want a lot of Watts for a certain time.
* A battery charger must be dimensioned right for the batteries one uses. Your charger is NOT the right charger.
Last edited:
Amplifiers follow Physics Laws, lik everything else.
If you draw hundreds of Watts from your batteries, you will drain quickly, and to boot an inadequate charger won´t keep them charged.
So either lower your power requirements or, as said above, drastically increase battery capacity and charger power ... big time.
If the current one only supplies 8A which means 8*12.6= *meager* 100W but you pull 600W or so ..... answer the question yourself .
If you draw hundreds of Watts from your batteries, you will drain quickly, and to boot an inadequate charger won´t keep them charged.
So either lower your power requirements or, as said above, drastically increase battery capacity and charger power ... big time.
If the current one only supplies 8A which means 8*12.6= *meager* 100W but you pull 600W or so ..... answer the question yourself .
- Status
- Not open for further replies.