Hi Peeps. Seen a lot on your forum, and it seems that you guys are pretty clever 🙂
I have a home made "button box", where i have soldered wires instead of the button to an old joystick with usb. To activate the "button" I have mounted an momentary N/O switch, as it's what needed for the pc to see it as a "normal" button.
What I need help with is:
I need a row of LEDs (proberly 4-5 pcs) to start flashing when the momentary button is pushed, and to stop again when its pushed again, power on again when pushed and so on.
I'm thinking if there is a relay or something that can be mounted and can hold voltage from an external psu (5v, 12v or something, I have a lot)?
Picture attached so you maybe better understand 🙂
Thanks in advance 🙂
-Bjarne
I have a home made "button box", where i have soldered wires instead of the button to an old joystick with usb. To activate the "button" I have mounted an momentary N/O switch, as it's what needed for the pc to see it as a "normal" button.
What I need help with is:
I need a row of LEDs (proberly 4-5 pcs) to start flashing when the momentary button is pushed, and to stop again when its pushed again, power on again when pushed and so on.
I'm thinking if there is a relay or something that can be mounted and can hold voltage from an external psu (5v, 12v or something, I have a lot)?
Picture attached so you maybe better understand 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks in advance 🙂
-Bjarne
First of all, you need some sort of latch to hold the momentary pushbutton status. A relay can work, but it is probably a bit clunky IMO compared with a silicon-based solution.
Do you need the LEDs to flash in unison or sequentially or randomly?
Do you need the LEDs to flash in unison or sequentially or randomly?
They just need to flash at the same time. I Think I will buy som pre wired flashing LEDs from eBay, so im only needs something to "hold" the voltage 🙂
If you want the LEDs to light in unison, just wire them in series and flash them. If you use self-flashing ones, they will not likely all flash together as one. However one flashing type in series with four common LEDs might work.
This looks familiar, are we not already discussing this circuit elsewhere?
This looks familiar, are we not already discussing this circuit elsewhere?
It doesn't matter if they are flashing at the exact same time, they just need to flash to indicate the switch have been activated 🙂
I have created this question on severals forums as i haven't found the answer, and now I saw Another thread on this forum related to it 🙂
Could this be the solution you guys think: http://m.ebay.com/itm/Flip-Flop-Latch-Switch-Module-Bistable-Multivibrator-Module-for-Relay-Pump-DIY-/181694539541?nav=SEARCH
I have created this question on severals forums as i haven't found the answer, and now I saw Another thread on this forum related to it 🙂
Could this be the solution you guys think: http://m.ebay.com/itm/Flip-Flop-Latch-Switch-Module-Bistable-Multivibrator-Module-for-Relay-Pump-DIY-/181694539541?nav=SEARCH
1. You can use a SPS to achieve this.😉
2. You can use a flip-flop (see the internet for further details) and a power transistor to "switch" the LEDs.
2. You can use a flip-flop (see the internet for further details) and a power transistor to "switch" the LEDs.
Im pretty unsure what sps is - cant find it on Google :/
The eBay link above, is flip-flop based I Think?
The eBay link above, is flip-flop based I Think?
How long do you want the LEDs to persist for?
If you only want them to flash briefly as the switch is made then, as long as you have a resistor in series with each LED, your circuit will work. It is however more usual to wire the LEDs in series with a single resistor.
If you only want them to flash briefly as the switch is made then, as long as you have a resistor in series with each LED, your circuit will work. It is however more usual to wire the LEDs in series with a single resistor.
They should light/flash until I push the momentary switch again. Power on when pushing, power off when pushing again and so on.
So all i actual need is to have a unit that keeps the 5/12v or what fits the unit, to the LEDs when pushing, and to disable when pushing again 🙂
I think its one of the simplest thing for the tech guys, but i'm not really good to technician in english :/
So the one flip-flop I linked to could do it?
And I then need to solder an resistor to every single + leg on the LEDs right? (as LED they are 1.5-3vdc as I remember)
Do I need a rectifier ( i think its called) so the joystick PCB not is damaged when activating the LEDs, or will the power not run back through the flip-flop module?
Thanks so far 🙂
So all i actual need is to have a unit that keeps the 5/12v or what fits the unit, to the LEDs when pushing, and to disable when pushing again 🙂
I think its one of the simplest thing for the tech guys, but i'm not really good to technician in english :/
So the one flip-flop I linked to could do it?
And I then need to solder an resistor to every single + leg on the LEDs right? (as LED they are 1.5-3vdc as I remember)
Do I need a rectifier ( i think its called) so the joystick PCB not is damaged when activating the LEDs, or will the power not run back through the flip-flop module?
Thanks so far 🙂
Think SPS is a little overkill to my project 😉
Think Flip Flop Latch Switch Module Bistable Multivibrator Module for Relay Pump DIY | eBay
Maybe is more what I need? 🙂
The circuit in post #13 here seems to do what you want with regard to operating with a momentary button press. The output could drive either a chain of normal high brightness LED's with all of these being 'flashed' via a single hidden flashing LED used to generate a gating signal.
And if you have USB connectivity then it can all run off the 5 volts present.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...le-ended-class-headphone-amp.html#post2080579
And if you have USB connectivity then it can all run off the 5 volts present.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...le-ended-class-headphone-amp.html#post2080579
It is possible to drive a relay by the mentioned circuit, but the mutual induction must be suppressed by a diode.
Okay, heres an update:
I'm buyng FlipFlop latch Bistable Flip Flop Latch Switch Module Bistable Multivibrator Module for Relay Pump DIY | eBay
From one of the wires from the switch to the flip flop(to + i guess) i'm mounting af Germanium Diode like this: High Quality 10pcs Germanium Diode 1N34A do 7 1N34 IN34A Practical Hot H | eBay
And resistors to alle of the LEDs + leg.
Is that a useable solution?
Thanks 😀
I'm buyng FlipFlop latch Bistable Flip Flop Latch Switch Module Bistable Multivibrator Module for Relay Pump DIY | eBay
From one of the wires from the switch to the flip flop(to + i guess) i'm mounting af Germanium Diode like this: High Quality 10pcs Germanium Diode 1N34A do 7 1N34 IN34A Practical Hot H | eBay
And resistors to alle of the LEDs + leg.
Is that a useable solution?
Thanks 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Use silicon diodes, IN4148 or 1N914 type. Germanium are old tech and have problems with leakage.
I haven't studied your circuit so I'm not sure why you need a diode. Flashing LED's are usually rated for 5 volts, or 5V and higher and with no series resistor needed. Check the data sheet for the LED's you intend to use. Ordinary LED's need the resistor.
I haven't studied your circuit so I'm not sure why you need a diode. Flashing LED's are usually rated for 5 volts, or 5V and higher and with no series resistor needed. Check the data sheet for the LED's you intend to use. Ordinary LED's need the resistor.
Won't this do?
Momentary Button as On/Off Toggle using 555 todbot blog
The 555 can source a good deal of current (up to 200ma),
and you could even avoid the expense of the additional transistor
Momentary Button as On/Off Toggle using 555 todbot blog
The 555 can source a good deal of current (up to 200ma),
and you could even avoid the expense of the additional transistor
if one has 12V available then using LEDs in parallel is a waste.
series connect the LEDs to get a string that reaches ~10V. Then use a current limiter to absorb the ~2V overhead.
You might need two strings, if so then connect the current limited strings in parallel.
Paralleling of LEDs is liable to burn out the one that reaches burn out temperature first and then the next will burn out shortly after until all have gone. You must use a current limiter.
series connect the LEDs to get a string that reaches ~10V. Then use a current limiter to absorb the ~2V overhead.
You might need two strings, if so then connect the current limited strings in parallel.
Paralleling of LEDs is liable to burn out the one that reaches burn out temperature first and then the next will burn out shortly after until all have gone. You must use a current limiter.
Mooly, if you look at my "circuit" Then you see the switch activates a "non-voltage" circuit and the circuit with the LEDs. So I Think I need a diode to prevent voltage to run from the LEDs to the other "board" and damage it.
Quadtech, I Will look at it in a week or so, dont know what is easiest :/
Thanks so far 🙂
Quadtech, I Will look at it in a week or so, dont know what is easiest :/
Thanks so far 🙂
If you do need a diode then just use a silicon device such as 1n4148 or 1n4001. Germaniums are leaky, maybe leaky enough to stop a logic circuit working correctly.
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