I have an original Sunfire Architectual ( no passive radiator) that has a bad amp. I also have a Yung 500 watt plate amplifier that a picked up for a song. The plate amp appears that it will just fit in the cube. Anyone have any suggestions? Comments beyond the obvious?
Don't know whether it is obvious that the Carver amp probably had more than 500 watt peak potential and EQ built in, but other than that, no reason not to use the Yung.
Hi Welt, yup the Carver claimed some fantastic PEAK power but I have a small room. The Yung claims 500 eats rms at 4 ohms. ( I measure 4.2 ohm resistance on the carver woof) and the yung has a six db boast at 24Hz so well see
Bob Carver's white paper about the True Subwoofer was interesting to say the least. If I recall, it's been many years, but you read the white paper where
Mr. Carver is discussing controlle the cone excursion, etc...somewhere
burried in there he describes it like 2700 Watts. However, there is a
subtly in there, that the true sub amp and the speaker perform like a
standard speaker with a 2700 Watt amp.
It was almost like the true sub works this way, therefore it's a
2700 watt sub.
Good luck with your project.
I have been running my old 10" Sunfire True Subwoofer (dated 2006) for a year or two with a DS-1000 Subwoofer Amplifier from PartsExpress. The plate amp gave up a while back (only hum) and shipping the entire unit to sunfire was out of the question. Couldnt find a schematic to work from and I know Carver stuff has circuits that I might not be able to figure out.
It has worked fine, but the reason I found this thread is because I just pulled out the passive radiator, evaluating a plan to convert the box and driver to a large low tuned port experiment. When I pulled it out, I found a failed glue line from the back fabric mesh to the metal weight. So I was looking for sunfire passive radiator repairs. I guess I could try extra strength hot glue, as if it fails as expected, it is easy to clean off for plan B.
I hadnt noticed any malfunction of the radiator, and it had appeared to be moving normally. In looking at it now, I am unsure what the function is of the back fabric ring is? I guess it isnt too important.
So now I have the box with the original Sunfire driver, and the plate amp only serves to seal the box, and use the output terminals to hook the driver to the sub-amp.
So the box has an expendable plate amp hole, and the hole for the 10" passive radiator.
Anyone have any quick and dirty ideas about adding large tuned ports for experimentation purposes, without too much woodworking. I have several 5' x 12" diameter sonotube like tubes but made of very stiff polypropylene with 0.25 wall thickness. I have been considering just attaching a port to one of the openings, just to see what happens.
As I dont know the specs on this driver, I really dont have a clue about how to rationally start experimenting, so irrational empiricism may just happen! What could possibly go WORNG?
Some day, if I can find the schematic for the supposedly 2700 watt plate amp, I will attempt to repair it as well. I figure there are bad caps somewhere in it, but I can tell you that the two 1500 microfarad 200v caps in the power supply, kept a heck of a charge for a dangerously long time, the shorting screwdriver has never been the same.
Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.
I very much enjoy reading this forum, but it gets dangerous ideas cranking!
It has worked fine, but the reason I found this thread is because I just pulled out the passive radiator, evaluating a plan to convert the box and driver to a large low tuned port experiment. When I pulled it out, I found a failed glue line from the back fabric mesh to the metal weight. So I was looking for sunfire passive radiator repairs. I guess I could try extra strength hot glue, as if it fails as expected, it is easy to clean off for plan B.
I hadnt noticed any malfunction of the radiator, and it had appeared to be moving normally. In looking at it now, I am unsure what the function is of the back fabric ring is? I guess it isnt too important.
So now I have the box with the original Sunfire driver, and the plate amp only serves to seal the box, and use the output terminals to hook the driver to the sub-amp.
So the box has an expendable plate amp hole, and the hole for the 10" passive radiator.
Anyone have any quick and dirty ideas about adding large tuned ports for experimentation purposes, without too much woodworking. I have several 5' x 12" diameter sonotube like tubes but made of very stiff polypropylene with 0.25 wall thickness. I have been considering just attaching a port to one of the openings, just to see what happens.
As I dont know the specs on this driver, I really dont have a clue about how to rationally start experimenting, so irrational empiricism may just happen! What could possibly go WORNG?
Some day, if I can find the schematic for the supposedly 2700 watt plate amp, I will attempt to repair it as well. I figure there are bad caps somewhere in it, but I can tell you that the two 1500 microfarad 200v caps in the power supply, kept a heck of a charge for a dangerously long time, the shorting screwdriver has never been the same.
Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.
I very much enjoy reading this forum, but it gets dangerous ideas cranking!
ATatum, There is someone who repairs the plate amps from Sunfire subs, just google it, it will come up.
Greg
Greg
Thanks peck555, I will check it out. I thought I saw something like that on Ebay, where you just send the plate amp without the box and drivers.
sUNFIRE TD CLASS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9z98JrVC81A&feature=youtu.be
Hello ATatum
greetings nice to hear you have the sunfire TD class 2700 watt
plate amp i tried to diy the sunfire amp with guidance from Sir
mile Apex audio the out section worked fine had no problem with
it the tracking down converter negative i could not get -9volts
if its possible can you send me high resolution pics of bottom pcb
and top components maybe i could try to make it work some
pics attached of the plate amp
Warm Regards
Andrew
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9z98JrVC81A&feature=youtu.be
Hello ATatum
greetings nice to hear you have the sunfire TD class 2700 watt
plate amp i tried to diy the sunfire amp with guidance from Sir
mile Apex audio the out section worked fine had no problem with
it the tracking down converter negative i could not get -9volts
if its possible can you send me high resolution pics of bottom pcb
and top components maybe i could try to make it work some
pics attached of the plate amp
Warm Regards
Andrew
Attachments
The back fabric mesh to metal joint sounds like you are describing the spider. This is what keeps things aligned and provides suspension, so it is pretty important that it is intact.
Thanks so much andrewlebon : I will get on this after work TGIFriday!
It is particularly nice to get the schematic, as I had very little luck trying to figure out what did what in the plate amp by inspection. Including such terms that I dont understand, like downward tracking!
Thanks Again, and more later.
Art
It is particularly nice to get the schematic, as I had very little luck trying to figure out what did what in the plate amp by inspection. Including such terms that I dont understand, like downward tracking!
Thanks Again, and more later.
Art
Thanks richie00boy,
Yes it is the spider disconnected from the back metal cylender, but it looks much more like a spider web, that I anticipate getting caught in, when I get lured into the glue phase. As you suspect,I should have used the Sarcasm emoticon, when commenting that this wasnt an important part in a highly sophisticated engineered product. If Carver made it that way, I was sure it had an important function.
As I mentioned the PR was still moving, when driven with the external amp, but maybe I was lucky that damage was not done to the front PL part. I think there may have still been some aligning function taking place, as the spider was still surrounding the metal cylinder concentrically, but was sliding up and down as the cylinder piston moved.
I can get the spider into the right position on the piston, so now can you suggest an appropriated glue to reattach it? The glue did not actually fail, but the glue pulled off pieces of what looks like cardboard from the cylinder. I may need a large surface for the glue to attach to, as the substrate may be part of the problem.
I was considering using 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...nt-5200-Fast-Cure?N=5510818+3293241048&rt=rud
It is sold for fiberglass boat hull to deck sealing, but I have used it in plumbing, and parts connected with it were still intact and strong, 20 years later, after the fittings had deteriorated.
Thanks for your helpful input, I will send some images.
Art
Yes it is the spider disconnected from the back metal cylender, but it looks much more like a spider web, that I anticipate getting caught in, when I get lured into the glue phase. As you suspect,I should have used the Sarcasm emoticon, when commenting that this wasnt an important part in a highly sophisticated engineered product. If Carver made it that way, I was sure it had an important function.
As I mentioned the PR was still moving, when driven with the external amp, but maybe I was lucky that damage was not done to the front PL part. I think there may have still been some aligning function taking place, as the spider was still surrounding the metal cylinder concentrically, but was sliding up and down as the cylinder piston moved.
I can get the spider into the right position on the piston, so now can you suggest an appropriated glue to reattach it? The glue did not actually fail, but the glue pulled off pieces of what looks like cardboard from the cylinder. I may need a large surface for the glue to attach to, as the substrate may be part of the problem.
I was considering using 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...nt-5200-Fast-Cure?N=5510818+3293241048&rt=rud
It is sold for fiberglass boat hull to deck sealing, but I have used it in plumbing, and parts connected with it were still intact and strong, 20 years later, after the fittings had deteriorated.
Thanks for your helpful input, I will send some images.
Art
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