Hi, I'm Alan, from Scotland but live in California.
My beloved 66SE ki amp has stopped working, the indicator diodes go on but there's no audio output from either speaker outputs or headphone socket.
I'm handy with an iron but have never used a multimeter although I'd be prepared to have a go if I had a pointer.
Any chance anyone could point me in the right direction? Do I need schematics for example?
Cheers
Alan
My beloved 66SE ki amp has stopped working, the indicator diodes go on but there's no audio output from either speaker outputs or headphone socket.
I'm handy with an iron but have never used a multimeter although I'd be prepared to have a go if I had a pointer.
Any chance anyone could point me in the right direction? Do I need schematics for example?
Cheers
Alan
I had two problems with my pm66se (not KI).
The power switch didn't lock in the on position, i was fooled a long time since the led lit up and didn't go out until the caps had discharged.
The second was the power to the relays. There is a distinct click that should be heard when you power it on. If not then it could be the +24v feed that is broken.
BTW does anyone know anything more about theAN7062P circuit in the pm66se other than the little info on the datasheet from panasonic.
The power switch didn't lock in the on position, i was fooled a long time since the led lit up and didn't go out until the caps had discharged.
The second was the power to the relays. There is a distinct click that should be heard when you power it on. If not then it could be the +24v feed that is broken.
BTW does anyone know anything more about theAN7062P circuit in the pm66se other than the little info on the datasheet from panasonic.
Arghhh... mine too!
Don't suppose you have any luck with fixing the problem ?
My PM-66SE has just developed the same problem...
Power light is on, but no output from speakers etc... Its also missing the "clunk" sound it used to make shortly after power on...
Help! ??!
Don't suppose you have any luck with fixing the problem ?
My PM-66SE has just developed the same problem...
Power light is on, but no output from speakers etc... Its also missing the "clunk" sound it used to make shortly after power on...
Help! ??!
PM 66SE
Hugo..what does that mean in simple terms please, I presume you mean check some components? and where do we find those components.
Thanks
Alan
Hugo..what does that mean in simple terms please, I presume you mean check some components? and where do we find those components.
Thanks
Alan
I would guess R802 and R807 are resistors on the board. No idea what "47R" is though!
Will try and pull the cover off the amp tonight and have a look...
Hugo, why R802 and R807 ? Did you pick these at random or do you have experience of the amp ?
Cheers
Will try and pull the cover off the amp tonight and have a look...
Hugo, why R802 and R807 ? Did you pick these at random or do you have experience of the amp ?
Cheers
If the components numbers are not marked on the PCB, you'll need a schematic.
I don't have it 😉
If they are, look for resistor R802 or/and R807 which is (are) 47ohm. They could be broken.
Here's another tip if you have no access to docs:
Check for resistors lifted from the PCB like on the picture.
Measure the voltage on both sides with respect to ground. If you have for example 12V on one side and nothing or very little on the other side you know its broken. Measure these type of safety resistors with an ohm meter. Make sure you turned the amp off before ohm measurements.
I don't know the amp, the tip comes from a fault database.
/Hugo 🙂
I don't have it 😉
If they are, look for resistor R802 or/and R807 which is (are) 47ohm. They could be broken.
Here's another tip if you have no access to docs:
Check for resistors lifted from the PCB like on the picture.
Measure the voltage on both sides with respect to ground. If you have for example 12V on one side and nothing or very little on the other side you know its broken. Measure these type of safety resistors with an ohm meter. Make sure you turned the amp off before ohm measurements.
I don't know the amp, the tip comes from a fault database.
/Hugo 🙂
Attachments
Sorry i missed the question: Did it work out. In my case it was the 802 resistor. It is located close to the rectifier bridge and the main caps. If you have the big elcaps to the right of the rectifier bridge the resistor is directly below. It is connected (via pcb and jumper) to the collector (middle leg) of the transistor located close by.
So this is a common fault, didn't know that.
The result if it is broken is that you are missing the +24V feed, i think there is some markings on the board indcating which one it is.
It seems this resistor is meant to work as a fuse?
Happy fault finding.
So this is a common fault, didn't know that.
The result if it is broken is that you are missing the +24V feed, i think there is some markings on the board indcating which one it is.
It seems this resistor is meant to work as a fuse?
Happy fault finding.
Thanks guys I fixed my PM66SE KI
Thanks a lot to all those who suggested R802. My PM66SE KI has been gathering dust (No output but lights come on). No one could help me with the schematics so I could not do a thing.
Today I measured R802 after reading the suggestions given and the resistor had blown. I managed to get it sorted with a 5p resistor within 5 minutes (I just cut the blown one with some cutters and soldered a new one on top without opening the base). Its up and running now.
Thanks people
Thanks a lot to all those who suggested R802. My PM66SE KI has been gathering dust (No output but lights come on). No one could help me with the schematics so I could not do a thing.
Today I measured R802 after reading the suggestions given and the resistor had blown. I managed to get it sorted with a 5p resistor within 5 minutes (I just cut the blown one with some cutters and soldered a new one on top without opening the base). Its up and running now.
Thanks people
Well don't send it to Ken Ishiwata, its actually designed for him in Holland, apparently, he doen'st know Jack all.
lt cdr data said:
Let me guess:- copper plated chassis, and elna simics, copper screws. hmm what else does he normally add....a KI logo ?
ash_dac said:
Well guys, no one is saying this stuff is high end. This is mass market stuff just improved by Ken. He does actually operate from their europe HQ in holland. This amp is dated anyway but its still reasonable quality
lt cdr data said:
Mr Ishiwata does know Jack, it's Jill he's not interested in.
Very good marketing guy though.
Hi! My PM 66 SE was dead ... power light is on, but no output, missing the `clunk` sound.
Finally I fixed it. It was R802. Thanx Hugo thanx!
If you are traveling through Serbia just send mail to ivans4s@yahoo.com, you`ll have free lunch from me! 😀
Finally I fixed it. It was R802. Thanx Hugo thanx!
If you are traveling through Serbia just send mail to ivans4s@yahoo.com, you`ll have free lunch from me! 😀
danez said:
Well, it was mentioned, that it's a 47 ohm resistor, and then it will be yellow-violet-black. (4-7-0) 😉
Sorry es44, i was going by the attachment that was posted earlier which was appearing to me to be "R,R,Bl" but i can indee see you are correct and i have now found the correct 47 resistor.
Thanks
Thanks
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone here. I had the same problem with my PM66 - led on but no 'click'. I would never have believed I could fix a problem myself but thanks to this forum I bought a replacement resistor (well, 50 of them!) and now my amp is working again. So thanks!