I have a pair of mid-fi JVC ported mini-monitors, which I always thought sounded great considering price and size. I recently decided to add a gainclone to each one, and upgrade as much as I can. I will add a layer of wood to the outside of the enclosure, to stiffen it up, but don't really feel like doing it to the front, because the baffle is already small, and looks like a paint to duplicate. Also, it is made of half-inch particle board.... Today at the home depot I saw this MINWAX wood hardener, which is said to have resin dissolved in some solvents, which will penetrate the wood and carry the resin deep inside. After drying, the wood will become impregnated with the resin, and stiffen substantially. So I am thinking, will this reduce the flexing of the front baffle, or destroy the damping properties of the particle board? Or both? Any suggestions? Also has anyone used the wood filler from the same company? I am wandering if it will cure to be very hard and dense, and how the damping properties of it are.. Thanks.
Make sure you let all the solvents evaporate before you put the drivers back in. The solvents can ruin surrounds and voice coil glue!
something about that just screams bad idea to me... Solvents made to penetrate wood + particle board = wet pile of particle dust... at least in my head.
Personally, I'd suggest a layer of fiberglass resin on the inside of the front panel, which will stiffen it substancially, to counteract the sound of the fiberglass, either stuffing, or bitumen sheet.
Personally, I'd suggest a layer of fiberglass resin on the inside of the front panel, which will stiffen it substancially, to counteract the sound of the fiberglass, either stuffing, or bitumen sheet.
HiggityHank said:
Actually that is what I am thinking too (except the part about particle dust...) So I guess fiberglass resin + bitumen it is. Thanks!
Marketing is to powerfull!
Those wood hardeners are nothing more than a gimic. A properly placed stiffener of hardwood such as oak or maple will do wonders for your front baffle. Just use a piece that will be stong enough to resist flexture. That means it can be thin in one dimension but must be thicker in another. This piece must be glued in to the enclosure well by a rigid glue. Yellow carpentes glue is one way. Ive also had good sucess using polyurethane construction adhesive from bulldog. It sets up well and fills gaps to. Just don't get it on your hands. And don't use the polyurethane wood glues unless you can ensure a proper fitup between the surfaces. THey tend to foam up and make a bad bond if there are any voids in the joint.
Mark
Those wood hardeners are nothing more than a gimic. A properly placed stiffener of hardwood such as oak or maple will do wonders for your front baffle. Just use a piece that will be stong enough to resist flexture. That means it can be thin in one dimension but must be thicker in another. This piece must be glued in to the enclosure well by a rigid glue. Yellow carpentes glue is one way. Ive also had good sucess using polyurethane construction adhesive from bulldog. It sets up well and fills gaps to. Just don't get it on your hands. And don't use the polyurethane wood glues unless you can ensure a proper fitup between the surfaces. THey tend to foam up and make a bad bond if there are any voids in the joint.
Mark
Re: Marketing is to powerfull!
So you do not think that 1/8 inch of fiberglass resin over chipboard is a good idea? Seems like that would really penetrate and harden...
mwmkravchenko said:
So you do not think that 1/8 inch of fiberglass resin over chipboard is a good idea? Seems like that would really penetrate and harden...
The Minwax product is styrene in acetone. Make sure it degasses before putting drivers back!!!
Cyclotronguy
Cyclotronguy
The minwax wood hardener worked very well to stabilize a portion of a rotted window frame before I applied a two-part wood filler. I don't know that it would effectively penetrate a dense composite material.
Jeremy
Jeremy
I think the epoxy resin / fibre glass combination is a great idea. It will penetrate the wood and provide a great deal of rigidity. I would be inclined to use both ideas and end up with an even better product. use glue and clamps to instal the wood brace lengthwise. let it dry and then coat with epoxy resin. This may be a bit of over kill for the project but it will definitely stiffen up the baffle.
Let the completed project vent for a few days before you install the drivers as noted.
Good luck
Let the completed project vent for a few days before you install the drivers as noted.
Good luck
Actually, to make it extra rigid, some nylon rope would do the same job as a hardwood brace once coated with epoxy. It's a trick commonly used by the car audio guys (who also use the fiberglass resin trick)
Just lay out the rope in... well, any way you see fit. criss cross, spirals, hell, even spell your name. if it's a hassle, staple it down in a few spots. Then, just resin it up. About 1/8" should be more than enough.
(see... car audio isn't ALL evil
)
Just lay out the rope in... well, any way you see fit. criss cross, spirals, hell, even spell your name. if it's a hassle, staple it down in a few spots. Then, just resin it up. About 1/8" should be more than enough.
(see... car audio isn't ALL evil
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