Hi everyone.
I have recently acquired a Nakamichi 100pa that has seen a bit of water.
In it's rebuild I would like to replace the insulation sheet that sits between the bottom of the boards and the aluminium lids.
As best as I can measure it's about 0.3mm thick.
I suspect it may be something like 'presspahn' but I would like to know for sure what it is ?
Or any better alternatives ?
Thanks.
I have recently acquired a Nakamichi 100pa that has seen a bit of water.
In it's rebuild I would like to replace the insulation sheet that sits between the bottom of the boards and the aluminium lids.
As best as I can measure it's about 0.3mm thick.
I suspect it may be something like 'presspahn' but I would like to know for sure what it is ?
Or any better alternatives ?
Thanks.
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Awesome thanks Perry.
By better whenever I rebuild anything I always see what options exist in the hope of something more suitable.
With the space between the board and lids on these I was even wondering about thin blank fibreglass board.
By better whenever I rebuild anything I always see what options exist in the hope of something more suitable.
With the space between the board and lids on these I was even wondering about thin blank fibreglass board.
Fishpaper has been used for just about as insulators have been needed. It's not pretty and moisture makes it warp but that doesn't affect it's ability to insulate. If you want something nicer looking, the nomex stuff looks suitable. That said, it's probably not worth replacing the fishpaper in every amp you repair.
Your comment about fishpaper warping with moisture indicates it must be what Nak used.
From new (or in a car without damp) the insulation is dead flat.
But it wrinkles and warps with age and obviously moisture.
I stopped doing car audio repairs so many years ago.
But this amp is for my enjoyment 🙂
Its obviously had a little water sitting in it for some time as is obvious from the corrosion marks.
The bottom of the power supply board looked iffy but a super quick scrub with flux cleaner shows it as being fine.
I'll replace the insulators as they look pretty bad and I don't trust they wont have a risk of conductivity with the 'rust' they have in them now.
I have another 100pa and a pa302 sitting in the cupboard that could most likely benefit from a recap.
These models are late 80's early 90's. That makes them 25+ years old.
I've ordered enough caps to refresh all three.
Once I've done the rebuild on this 100pa I'll post some pics if anyone's interested.
Rayma, Ta for the link and suggestion of the nomex.
I'll grab a bit and see what it's like.
The sheets in these amps is obviously to add protection against board shorts if the lid gets damaged.
This 100pa I'm redoing now is proof it works as it does have a small dint in the bottom (amp) plate.
Not enough of a dint to be an issue, But I do like multiple safeties.
Ahhhhhhhhh the good old days when they thought about the product and designed them properly...
From new (or in a car without damp) the insulation is dead flat.
But it wrinkles and warps with age and obviously moisture.
I stopped doing car audio repairs so many years ago.
But this amp is for my enjoyment 🙂
Its obviously had a little water sitting in it for some time as is obvious from the corrosion marks.
The bottom of the power supply board looked iffy but a super quick scrub with flux cleaner shows it as being fine.
I'll replace the insulators as they look pretty bad and I don't trust they wont have a risk of conductivity with the 'rust' they have in them now.
I have another 100pa and a pa302 sitting in the cupboard that could most likely benefit from a recap.
These models are late 80's early 90's. That makes them 25+ years old.
I've ordered enough caps to refresh all three.
Once I've done the rebuild on this 100pa I'll post some pics if anyone's interested.
Rayma, Ta for the link and suggestion of the nomex.
I'll grab a bit and see what it's like.
The sheets in these amps is obviously to add protection against board shorts if the lid gets damaged.
This 100pa I'm redoing now is proof it works as it does have a small dint in the bottom (amp) plate.
Not enough of a dint to be an issue, But I do like multiple safeties.
Ahhhhhhhhh the good old days when they thought about the product and designed them properly...
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