I need some glue that can flex for my non-audio application, my front door, which has stained glass inserts. This is not it but you get the idea-
Do you see the metal bars that go across- some of them in certain spots have become unwelded from the vertical pieces of metal. As a result everything jingles when the door is opened or closed (especially by my 9 year old), and even if the welds were there perfectly the entire thing can bend and flex a small amount when opened or closed. The way it is built is not strong enough to be totally rigid, it will move in and out by a small amount no matter what even if new.
For now it is fine but I need to glue the horizontal bars to the vertical bars (in a couple of places), and they flex quite a bit. Epoxy and JB Weld last about 2 days before failing because when the thing flexes the adhesive cannot bend with it. What I need is a flexible adhesive that can hold the metal to metal- any ideas?
I know this is a non audio topic but surely those of you making speakers would also find this interesting... figured that you guys are so smart I hate to put this in off topic....but move if you must.
I am in San Diego CA, so cold and water should not be issues but sun is an issue.
Do you see the metal bars that go across- some of them in certain spots have become unwelded from the vertical pieces of metal. As a result everything jingles when the door is opened or closed (especially by my 9 year old), and even if the welds were there perfectly the entire thing can bend and flex a small amount when opened or closed. The way it is built is not strong enough to be totally rigid, it will move in and out by a small amount no matter what even if new.
For now it is fine but I need to glue the horizontal bars to the vertical bars (in a couple of places), and they flex quite a bit. Epoxy and JB Weld last about 2 days before failing because when the thing flexes the adhesive cannot bend with it. What I need is a flexible adhesive that can hold the metal to metal- any ideas?
I know this is a non audio topic but surely those of you making speakers would also find this interesting... figured that you guys are so smart I hate to put this in off topic....but move if you must.
I am in San Diego CA, so cold and water should not be issues but sun is an issue.
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If the window uses lead came (H-channel) why don't you just re-solder it, if possible? You'll need a big soldering iron. There may be ways to reinforce the panels with cross bars? Have you not turned up any ideas with an online search?
My fear would be that adding glue/goop would just make a proper repair more difficult when it is eventually done.
My fear would be that adding glue/goop would just make a proper repair more difficult when it is eventually done.
JB weld isn't that good. MarineTex might work, get new stuff from a boat supply and don't over use the hardner when mixing...5:1 it is. Actually the best stuff I was thinking of is GOOP! You'd want to take the door off the hinges because it stinks (chemicals) and runs. But once it sets up, it should work like a champ!
They make Shoe Goop, Marine Goop and other Goops. It's getting harder to find and the big box stores don't want to carry it any more, they are buying that animal crap that doesn't hold with a scheisse. Don't use that 2000 or 6000 glue either.
Try and find the real Goop. LINK It cleans up with acetone.
FYI - That is stained glass and it is or should be lead channel and soldered originally. Now, really, if you want to do it right... Google is our friend check out the glasscrafters.com video LINK And be prepared to buy some good new lead working gear. It like audio, only poisonous!
cheers,
They make Shoe Goop, Marine Goop and other Goops. It's getting harder to find and the big box stores don't want to carry it any more, they are buying that animal crap that doesn't hold with a scheisse. Don't use that 2000 or 6000 glue either.
Try and find the real Goop. LINK It cleans up with acetone.
FYI - That is stained glass and it is or should be lead channel and soldered originally. Now, really, if you want to do it right... Google is our friend check out the glasscrafters.com video LINK And be prepared to buy some good new lead working gear. It like audio, only poisonous!
cheers,
+1 on GOOP.
An issue is that Lead gets crusty tarnish. Your glues may stick to the tarnish and pull it off the body of the Lead. Clean thoroughly! But that stuff is toxic!!
I don't see "bars" in your picture. The large Tiffany panels in a chapel I worked had substantial brass bars both wire-tied and soldered to the caming; this appeared to be a refurbish some years after installation. (It was a showpiece for the university so more money could be found than the usual small parish or residence.)
The real answer may be that leaded glass should not be put in a door, or not in large panels, or not around rude door-slammers. I do understand the attraction.
An issue is that Lead gets crusty tarnish. Your glues may stick to the tarnish and pull it off the body of the Lead. Clean thoroughly! But that stuff is toxic!!
I don't see "bars" in your picture. The large Tiffany panels in a chapel I worked had substantial brass bars both wire-tied and soldered to the caming; this appeared to be a refurbish some years after installation. (It was a showpiece for the university so more money could be found than the usual small parish or residence.)
The real answer may be that leaded glass should not be put in a door, or not in large panels, or not around rude door-slammers. I do understand the attraction.
I remember watching a documentary involving church glass restoration, were they used some sort of fine sand concrete in order to fill the gaps and then wiped the rest away before curing.
Have You asked Your neighborhood Pastor ?
Have You asked Your neighborhood Pastor ?
Pretty sure you are thinking of Goo, not Goop, at least when calling it Shoe Goo (or Goop). Shoe Goo is excellent for forming a thick, pliable bond. Black or Clear. You can apply this to your shoe soles to fix cracks and holes.
Amazon.com: Amazing Goop Shoe Goo Glue Clear - 3.7 Oz 10 Packs: Sports & Outdoors
There is also Walther's Goo Walthers - GOO(R) - 1oz 29.6mL Tube - 904-299 which comes in a small tube and may actually be Goodyear Pliobond (no longer made by Goodyear apparently) Amazon.com: RUSCOE P141 1oz Pliobond Adhesive: Automotive
Amazon.com: Amazing Goop Shoe Goo Glue Clear - 3.7 Oz 10 Packs: Sports & Outdoors
There is also Walther's Goo Walthers - GOO(R) - 1oz 29.6mL Tube - 904-299 which comes in a small tube and may actually be Goodyear Pliobond (no longer made by Goodyear apparently) Amazon.com: RUSCOE P141 1oz Pliobond Adhesive: Automotive
It's confusing! "Goop" is a natural health company.
Shoe Goo is a tame version of sneaker-factory glue.
Amazing Goop is real darn similar to Shoe Goo.
E6000 is another real-similar product from the same company.
They sell Goop targeted to plumbing, trim, crafts, automotive, and all-purpose. There is a Goop II Max and E6000 Plus. The 'Plus' claims low-odor, which means it is different from the classical Goops. There is Unicorn Spit in 14 colors (seems to be a water-based gel).
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The better attempts at making doors that look like that have been done using stainless steel mullions, instead of the more fragile lead. That, or put a damper on the door so it can’t be moved rapidly, and try again with the lead after it’s been restored.
1) degrease metal and glass wiping it with alcohol and clean rags.
Nothing stronger such as acetone o thinner because it will damage door varnish nor "naphta" or lighter fluid because of the fire hazard.
2) draw a fine bead of RTV silicone
along all joints, even the apparently strong ones.
It is designed to join glass to glass (fishtanks) and glass to metal (typically aluminum) , sticks like crazy (if surface is greaseless that is) , stands Sun/rain/etc. and will last forever.
To boot it´s inexpensive, you find it in any hardware store and can be smoothly applied with the matching "pistol applicator" which also costs peanuts.
Nothing stronger such as acetone o thinner because it will damage door varnish nor "naphta" or lighter fluid because of the fire hazard.
2) draw a fine bead of RTV silicone
along all joints, even the apparently strong ones.
It is designed to join glass to glass (fishtanks) and glass to metal (typically aluminum) , sticks like crazy (if surface is greaseless that is) , stands Sun/rain/etc. and will last forever.
To boot it´s inexpensive, you find it in any hardware store and can be smoothly applied with the matching "pistol applicator" which also costs peanuts.
Just be aware that NOTHING will ever stick to those surfaces again, once silicone has been applied....so make sure it is going to do the job.
My personal choice would be
Aleene's Liquid Fusion Clear Urethane Adhesive
Urethane is very strong and sticks to almost everything and keeps its elasticity in cold weather. Think car windshield adhesive😉
check on amazon.
Peter
Aleene's Liquid Fusion Clear Urethane Adhesive
Urethane is very strong and sticks to almost everything and keeps its elasticity in cold weather. Think car windshield adhesive😉
check on amazon.
Peter
This RTV silicone is not to be used in aquariums / fish tanks as it seems to have mold and mildew inhabitors; this will kill your fish. Use 100% silicone only for those jobs; I used Otto seal S28 for my aquarium.
If the RTV is transparant, I might use it for this application.
Nothing sticking again after silicone, is true for porous materials; you can get it off glass and other hard surfaces, but cleaning it up is hard.
I would call a company (or a few) who makes windows like these and ask them what to do/use.
If the RTV is transparant, I might use it for this application.
Nothing sticking again after silicone, is true for porous materials; you can get it off glass and other hard surfaces, but cleaning it up is hard.
I would call a company (or a few) who makes windows like these and ask them what to do/use.
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Thanks for the great ideas everyone. I ended up getting one of these -
Walthers Goo
Amazon.com: Walthers 904-299 Goo Glue Cement: Toys & Games
And also this "Amazing Goop Marine Adhesive"
Amazon.com: Amazing GOOP 170011 Marine Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces: Home Improvement
I suspect that these are actually the same thing, same directions and smell anyway. A couple of weeks and still holding strong, used about 4 big drops in all. The stuff is actually a little pliable/ flexible. Can't wait to try these out for more household jobs.
Walthers Goo
Amazon.com: Walthers 904-299 Goo Glue Cement: Toys & Games
And also this "Amazing Goop Marine Adhesive"
Amazon.com: Amazing GOOP 170011 Marine Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces: Home Improvement
I suspect that these are actually the same thing, same directions and smell anyway. A couple of weeks and still holding strong, used about 4 big drops in all. The stuff is actually a little pliable/ flexible. Can't wait to try these out for more household jobs.
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