Greetings to all -
After having two ebay-purchased reel to reel tape decks damaged by FedEx in transit, I decided to try to find one locally. Felt really fortunate to find a mint-looking Sony TC755 nearby (this is the big shiny 10.5" unit). At the owner's place there were no reels to check it with, but the reels and capstan functioned, as did all the solenoid controls. Took it home, flipped the reel size switch to 7",loaded it with seven inch reels and -- nothing. The solenoids click but the reels will not turn in any mode. Switched over to 10.5" reels. Now the solenoids click, the capstan engages, and the reels nudge, but will not turn. I'm hunting desperately for a qualified technician in the Little Rock, Arkansas area, but in the meantime does anybody have any guesses as to what might be the problem? The machine is new looking inside, too. Does anybody have suggestions for any very good reel to reel technicians that are honest and reliable?
(Since this is my first post in DIY, here's a little background on me: I'm sixty one years old and disabled. My friend and I are trying to replace the gear we owned - or wished we'd owned - in the 1970s. In the mid-seventies while in the Army in Germany I bought my dream audio system: a Pioneer SX-950 receiver (the black European model); Bose 901 Series II speakers; a Technics SL1300 turntable w/Shure V15-III; and a Teac A3300 reel to reel. So far, I've replaced them with a Pioneer SX750 and Sansui 5000X receiver (sold the Sansui today); Pioneer PL400 turntable w/new Shure M97xE cartridge; and the previously mentioned Sony reel to reel. Speakers: I've auditioned a number of vintage and new loudspeakers. Was using a pair of Smaller Advents until one of the woofs retired on me. But I'm most pleased with the speakers I've built myself. Of the half dozen pairs I've built so far (fifteen inch models all the way down to 4" models), I'm mostly using a very simple two way, 8" set. I can listen to and enjoy them for hours on end. Thanks to all the guys on the Parts Express Tech Talk board.
--Once again, thanks in advance for any advice or recommendations on the Sony reel unit.
GeeDeeEmm
After having two ebay-purchased reel to reel tape decks damaged by FedEx in transit, I decided to try to find one locally. Felt really fortunate to find a mint-looking Sony TC755 nearby (this is the big shiny 10.5" unit). At the owner's place there were no reels to check it with, but the reels and capstan functioned, as did all the solenoid controls. Took it home, flipped the reel size switch to 7",loaded it with seven inch reels and -- nothing. The solenoids click but the reels will not turn in any mode. Switched over to 10.5" reels. Now the solenoids click, the capstan engages, and the reels nudge, but will not turn. I'm hunting desperately for a qualified technician in the Little Rock, Arkansas area, but in the meantime does anybody have any guesses as to what might be the problem? The machine is new looking inside, too. Does anybody have suggestions for any very good reel to reel technicians that are honest and reliable?
(Since this is my first post in DIY, here's a little background on me: I'm sixty one years old and disabled. My friend and I are trying to replace the gear we owned - or wished we'd owned - in the 1970s. In the mid-seventies while in the Army in Germany I bought my dream audio system: a Pioneer SX-950 receiver (the black European model); Bose 901 Series II speakers; a Technics SL1300 turntable w/Shure V15-III; and a Teac A3300 reel to reel. So far, I've replaced them with a Pioneer SX750 and Sansui 5000X receiver (sold the Sansui today); Pioneer PL400 turntable w/new Shure M97xE cartridge; and the previously mentioned Sony reel to reel. Speakers: I've auditioned a number of vintage and new loudspeakers. Was using a pair of Smaller Advents until one of the woofs retired on me. But I'm most pleased with the speakers I've built myself. Of the half dozen pairs I've built so far (fifteen inch models all the way down to 4" models), I'm mostly using a very simple two way, 8" set. I can listen to and enjoy them for hours on end. Thanks to all the guys on the Parts Express Tech Talk board.
--Once again, thanks in advance for any advice or recommendations on the Sony reel unit.
GeeDeeEmm
You can find the Service Manual here,
Sony TC-755 Manual - Three Head Tape Recorder - HiFi Engine
jer 🙂
Sony TC-755 Manual - Three Head Tape Recorder - HiFi Engine
jer 🙂
I still have a TC-755 in the garage and I service Sony broadcast gear. Sony uses BAD lubricants. Oil turn to glue and greases turn into mud. I don't use Sony lubes for that reason. I use NyeOil II and Rheolube 363 and 368AX.
It will likely need to be disassembled cleaned out and re-lubed. It's not for the feint of heart but it can be done.
More annoying, the F&F heads fail WAY too early. Under a microscope it looks like potholes. On a scope it rolls off the high end.
I'll also have to 'bake' the tapes to get rid of sticky shed.
G²
It will likely need to be disassembled cleaned out and re-lubed. It's not for the feint of heart but it can be done.
More annoying, the F&F heads fail WAY too early. Under a microscope it looks like potholes. On a scope it rolls off the high end.
I'll also have to 'bake' the tapes to get rid of sticky shed.
G²
I've pretty much given up trying to service my Sony reel to reel tape decks due to failure of the tape braking and tensioning systems. I think these involve rubber and felt components, and I'm not competent to make replacements. The rubber capstan pressure wheel is out there to loom over my thoughts, too. There appears to be no parts source. Stratus46 may be on to something about lubricants, as these failures to control tape movements started 30 years ago in the eighties. I can't get new RtoR tape anyway, but it would be nice to play my old tapes into some newer format.
I'm trying to work up PC's as recording machines, using non-proprietary software, without getting that effort all together either. Microsoft and Apple are off my list, they keep updating stuff without permission. Microsoft killed the last two used PC Windows systems I bought with "updates". I've got a number for a legal Win XP now, just in time for Microsoft to quit offering it. The computer with that number on the back came with Win 7, which was obviously not legal or the update number is lost, and that op system was destroyed by MS. I'm trying to use ubuntu studio, but have had a mismatch between the PC's I buy and the speed required by the software package distributed. Just in time for outdoor weather projects, I found a DVD recording drive which cuts the backup of data time before installing new op system from a week (and 18 CDs) to a couple of hours and two DVDs. People on pianostreet.com recommend a proprietary software package as having better sound than anything for free, but again that company only supports MS and Apple, not Linux.
People record all the time with cellphones, but the sound I hear on youtube is truly vile. I got much better results with my Sony TC355 back in the day. People on this thread say you can still get parts for Revox reel to reel, so if you have a lot of precious original tapes from the 1970's, look for one of those. Last year I found the irreplaceable off the air track I had only on a reel in a Rhino CD, so my sense of urgency has diminished (13th Floor Elevators, Slip inside this house ).
I'm trying to work up PC's as recording machines, using non-proprietary software, without getting that effort all together either. Microsoft and Apple are off my list, they keep updating stuff without permission. Microsoft killed the last two used PC Windows systems I bought with "updates". I've got a number for a legal Win XP now, just in time for Microsoft to quit offering it. The computer with that number on the back came with Win 7, which was obviously not legal or the update number is lost, and that op system was destroyed by MS. I'm trying to use ubuntu studio, but have had a mismatch between the PC's I buy and the speed required by the software package distributed. Just in time for outdoor weather projects, I found a DVD recording drive which cuts the backup of data time before installing new op system from a week (and 18 CDs) to a couple of hours and two DVDs. People on pianostreet.com recommend a proprietary software package as having better sound than anything for free, but again that company only supports MS and Apple, not Linux.
People record all the time with cellphones, but the sound I hear on youtube is truly vile. I got much better results with my Sony TC355 back in the day. People on this thread say you can still get parts for Revox reel to reel, so if you have a lot of precious original tapes from the 1970's, look for one of those. Last year I found the irreplaceable off the air track I had only on a reel in a Rhino CD, so my sense of urgency has diminished (13th Floor Elevators, Slip inside this house ).
Last edited:
I work on BVW-7x, BVH-2xxx, DVW-(a)500, DVW-(m)2000, and SRW=5x00 NTSC and PAL, Ampex AVR 1/2/3 VPR-2/3/6.
It takes a whole lot of capacitors to keep those BVW and DVWs happy.
G²
Sony uses some odd synthetic cloth/rubber for the brake bands on that machine. I took an old wallet and cut out some leather strips and used contact cement to hold it on the stainless steel bands. Works better than new.
For recording check out the Tascam DR-05 and DR-07 mk II. It will work better than the PC, cost a LOT less and give you files you can work on with Audacity (free) or my favorite Adobe Audition 3. ProTools is excellent also.
G²
For recording check out the Tascam DR-05 and DR-07 mk II. It will work better than the PC, cost a LOT less and give you files you can work on with Audacity (free) or my favorite Adobe Audition 3. ProTools is excellent also.
G²
How NOT to Damage Mag Tapes by Baking Them: Don't!
Magnetic Tape Care : LAST Tape Preservative, 2 oz. Walter’s formula is expensive, but except for Charles Richardson’s technology Page 1 that’s the best and safest way to restore analog tape. https://www.questia.com/library/jou...new-non-baking-cure-for-sticky-shed-tapes-how
That said, it's a shame that there seems to be no way to make Charlie’s mag tape restoration techniques affordable to most audiophiles. Furthermore, some of us have invested heavily in high end analog tape machines (my own Ampex ATR-102 with extra head block and VS-10 varispeed oscillator).
Rezerex technology-IF made affordable to consumers-would not only allow us to digitize our analog tapes at our leisure, but even to greatly extend their lives for numerous playbacks (on reasonably well designed and maintained tape transports) without further oxide shedding.
The trouble is that analog tape is a defunct storage medium, with no more than two companies worldwide now offering new tape stock. Consequently, there would seem to be no market incentive for Rezerex to ever reach the broader audiophile community. So if you like to play your valuable tapes and not only digitize them (or re-digitize them if/when you get a better sounding A/D converter), I'd go the Last Factory route.
IF only baking-a process that can be very destructive to the tape's precious oxide coating-would "get rid of" the stickiness. It won't. In less than a month it will return. Depending on how valuable your tapes are to you, I'd use a vacuum-driven desiccating chamber, as recommended by Walter Davies Tape Preservation And after you’ve desiccated the tapes, I’d apply his tape restorative.
Magnetic Tape Care : LAST Tape Preservative, 2 oz. Walter’s formula is expensive, but except for Charles Richardson’s technology Page 1 that’s the best and safest way to restore analog tape. https://www.questia.com/library/jou...new-non-baking-cure-for-sticky-shed-tapes-how
That said, it's a shame that there seems to be no way to make Charlie’s mag tape restoration techniques affordable to most audiophiles. Furthermore, some of us have invested heavily in high end analog tape machines (my own Ampex ATR-102 with extra head block and VS-10 varispeed oscillator).
Rezerex technology-IF made affordable to consumers-would not only allow us to digitize our analog tapes at our leisure, but even to greatly extend their lives for numerous playbacks (on reasonably well designed and maintained tape transports) without further oxide shedding.
The trouble is that analog tape is a defunct storage medium, with no more than two companies worldwide now offering new tape stock. Consequently, there would seem to be no market incentive for Rezerex to ever reach the broader audiophile community. So if you like to play your valuable tapes and not only digitize them (or re-digitize them if/when you get a better sounding A/D converter), I'd go the Last Factory route.
Last edited:
But even if you don't use Walter's formula, desiccating tapes (as per his instructions) is likely a good deal safer than baking them.
I can only tell you I have seen HUNDREDS of tapes get baked and not a single one ruined or even suffer minor damage. My 'poor man's ' alignment tape for 2" quad video tape was recorded 8 years ago on used baked Scotch tape. Early this year it was getting sticky again so I baked it again and it's just fine. I don't dispute that a vacuum system may be superior, I find nothing to dissuade me from using the food dehydrator.
G²
G²
Hi gdmoore28
Just a guess: Check to see if the reel motor brakes release when you press play, FF or Rewind.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Just a guess: Check to see if the reel motor brakes release when you press play, FF or Rewind.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Very interesting. Would you know what formula Scotch tape your 2" test tape is? Back-coated? 202, 203, 226, 227?
Any problems playing back 1/4" Ampex Grandmaster after multiple bakings? 406? 407? 456?
How and where do you store your 1/4" tapes? Air tight containers? Average room temp? What machine do you play most of your 1/4" tapes on?
Is the capstan motor running? As I recall (it's been a LONG time since I ran it) the capstan motor always runs. There is also a belt driving the 2 capstans from the motor. Belts are famous for deteriorating. Sony is also known to use awful lubricants that turn into glue. Disassemble clean and lube is the order of the day. Nyeoil II is excellent light machine oil.
G²
G²
We've done tape baking an may different formats. I believe my 2" quad tape (video, not audio) is 479. Baking seems to work best on older tapes (pre 1990). Great success with 1/4", 1/2" 2 " audio and video formats. Some of those were definitely Grand Master. I have some old Betamax (from 1982) that were dragging in the transport and baking cleared that up. It has been less needed with 3/4" and 1" video tape. We rarely have to bake again as it takes YEARS to get wet again and we get them copied onto digital formats the next day.
Most of those tapes were supplied by clients and I have no idea how they were stored. I'm in southern California as are most of those tapes.
I was a Sony guy before I wised up. I had a TC640, TC650, TC377 and 2 TC 755s and still have one of the 755s. If I was into analog recording (I'm not) I'd try for an Ampex ATR-100. Those Beta and VHS tapes were for use with a Sony PCM-701 (AC line powered version of the PCM-F1) and a Technics SVP-100 (14 bit EIAJ 44100 sample compatible with the PCM-701) I was an EARLY adopter of digital in September of 1982.
My own tapes are out in the garage not sealed in anything. I'll probably bake them before I even try them. I just want to record them into the computer to make CDs of them. MY main issue is the group delay phase equalization should be BEFORE the Dolby B decoding but it's likely just an obsession of mine. Of course I could copy into the PC without the Dolby processing, phase EQ it, play it BACK into the Dolby and re-ingest it. I told you it was obsessive.
G²
I got my Ampex ATR-102 for a rock bottom price and in perfect condition; it was the extras that were pricy (i.e. the VS-10 varispeed).
It seems better to do the latter: "......copy into the PC without the Dolby processing, phase EQ it, play it back into the Dolby......." (if tape hiss is that objectionable). That way you avoid the Dolby circuit's own passive (capacitors) and/or active circuitry. Less gain stages; better sound, most of the time.
Being in the southwest, I can see how the humidity would be low enough where the tapes would not necessarily absorb appreciable moisture (I'm on Long Island where it's gets very humid, though my A/C cycles on/off throughout the summer).
But what's amazing here is that your tapes (Back-coated Scotch, Grandmaster and cheap Ampex-Irish-Shamrock) apparently didn't lose their lubricants after all those years-AND after one and even multiple bakings?? That is, after baking to remove the moisture, you mean that your tapes didn't shed oxide due to excessive friction from little, if any, remaining lubricant? So when you look at your heads isn't there appreciable oxide smeared on them? Very strange. Then again, if you digitized most of them during the first pass, then each tape probably didn't lose much oxide-so little signal loss occurred.
Btw, what about really old acetate based tapes, like Scotch 111, 150? Should they be baked prior to playback?
It seems better to do the latter: "......copy into the PC without the Dolby processing, phase EQ it, play it back into the Dolby......." (if tape hiss is that objectionable). That way you avoid the Dolby circuit's own passive (capacitors) and/or active circuitry. Less gain stages; better sound, most of the time.
Being in the southwest, I can see how the humidity would be low enough where the tapes would not necessarily absorb appreciable moisture (I'm on Long Island where it's gets very humid, though my A/C cycles on/off throughout the summer).
But what's amazing here is that your tapes (Back-coated Scotch, Grandmaster and cheap Ampex-Irish-Shamrock) apparently didn't lose their lubricants after all those years-AND after one and even multiple bakings?? That is, after baking to remove the moisture, you mean that your tapes didn't shed oxide due to excessive friction from little, if any, remaining lubricant? So when you look at your heads isn't there appreciable oxide smeared on them? Very strange. Then again, if you digitized most of them during the first pass, then each tape probably didn't lose much oxide-so little signal loss occurred.
Btw, what about really old acetate based tapes, like Scotch 111, 150? Should they be baked prior to playback?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.