Hi there guys!
I'm making a ported subwoofer for HT appliance with a following specs.
Hardware:
Driver - Peerless XXLS 12" model 835017
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P835017 Rev 1_0.pdf
Plated Amp - BASH 500
O Audio - 500W BASH Subwoofer Amplifier
Enclosure dimensions:
Volume = 2.5 cft (~70dm^3)
Port vent:
diameter = 3"
Length = 13"
Ok, so I have this to begin with, but, if some of you could lend me a hand on the box size and vented port it would be very nice!
I tried to use the WinISD Pro for the box dimension calculation but I couldn't find some values of the driver for the program so... I did it on paper, and compare it to a DIY project I found that had the volume and port dimensions and my values are a bit smaller than the project I found.
(The values above are from the project I found, and yes the project is with the same driver)
I've read that the enclosure shouldn't be cubic but instead rectangular (or other format) so that the frequency curve response should be smoother. So I'm also opened to opened to suggestion...
Hope the information a gave was enough!
Thank you guys!
😀
I'm making a ported subwoofer for HT appliance with a following specs.
Hardware:
Driver - Peerless XXLS 12" model 835017
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P835017 Rev 1_0.pdf
Plated Amp - BASH 500
O Audio - 500W BASH Subwoofer Amplifier
Enclosure dimensions:
Volume = 2.5 cft (~70dm^3)
Port vent:
diameter = 3"
Length = 13"
Ok, so I have this to begin with, but, if some of you could lend me a hand on the box size and vented port it would be very nice!
I tried to use the WinISD Pro for the box dimension calculation but I couldn't find some values of the driver for the program so... I did it on paper, and compare it to a DIY project I found that had the volume and port dimensions and my values are a bit smaller than the project I found.
(The values above are from the project I found, and yes the project is with the same driver)
I've read that the enclosure shouldn't be cubic but instead rectangular (or other format) so that the frequency curve response should be smoother. So I'm also opened to opened to suggestion...
Hope the information a gave was enough!
Thank you guys!
😀
@ RuiSilva
Hi, i looked at the PDF, & ALL the required data needed for designing a project in WinISD is included in there. I guess you must be thinking that ALL of the boxes for data shown in WinISD, have to be inputted manually. This is NOT the case, & is often the cause of confusion. Only a certain amount of Data needs to be inputted manually, the rest is automatically arrived at by WinISD 🙂
First of all, make SURE that WinISD is set to automatic.
I made a thread with Lots of screenies, to help people with WinISD here - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/148729-how-correctly-use-winisd.html
It's up to you how big/small the box will be, & what you tune it to. Experiment with different sizes until you find something suitable.
All the best 😉
Hi, i looked at the PDF, & ALL the required data needed for designing a project in WinISD is included in there. I guess you must be thinking that ALL of the boxes for data shown in WinISD, have to be inputted manually. This is NOT the case, & is often the cause of confusion. Only a certain amount of Data needs to be inputted manually, the rest is automatically arrived at by WinISD 🙂
First of all, make SURE that WinISD is set to automatic.
I made a thread with Lots of screenies, to help people with WinISD here - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/148729-how-correctly-use-winisd.html
It's up to you how big/small the box will be, & what you tune it to. Experiment with different sizes until you find something suitable.
All the best 😉
Use a larger port or flares at both ends. Even with modest power, that thing is going to chuff something awful. A cube shape is fine for a sub as cabinet standing waves are a non issue at subwoofer frequencies.
Don't be afraid of sealed designs. I used to be a fan of ported speakers until after trying a couple sealed subs. My latest is a 15" driver in a 3 cu ft box. I'm quite surprised at the SQ and impressed with the bass it can make and how low it plays with modest power.
Don't be afraid of sealed designs. I used to be a fan of ported speakers until after trying a couple sealed subs. My latest is a 15" driver in a 3 cu ft box. I'm quite surprised at the SQ and impressed with the bass it can make and how low it plays with modest power.
ScanSpeak an Peerless Designs
Thanks for your input Zero D. 🙂
After working on the WinISD software, I didn't find the cone displacement curve so I went for the "BassBox 6 Pro" software (I'll post some of my configurations).
After reading a bunch of stuff I started to input some data and here are some of my results. 😀
I used 2 kind of systems, Vented and with Passive Radiators for two types of Drivers:
Passive Radiator:
Scan Speak Discovery 12” model 30W/0-00-00
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/30w-0-00-00.pdf
Drivers :
ScanSpeak DISCOVERY 12" 30W/4558T00 (150W RMS)
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/30w-4558t00.pdf
Peerless XXLS 12" 835017 (120W RMS)
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P835017 Rev 1_0.pdf
Ok, so I'm going to post now some pictures of the 4 systems...
For each Driver I did the passive radiator/vented system calculation so that the F3 value would be the lowest possible without degrading the curve response, I also didn't want a BIG box so I tried to create a medium size box.
View attachment 263313
Design 1 (RED)- Scan Speak with one PR (F3=25,67Hz; damping= typical)(Venclosure=73L);
Design 2 (ORANGE)- Peerless with one PR (F3=24,09Hz; damping= typical)(Venclosure=97L);
Design 3 (WHITE)- Scan Speak vented (F3=28,22Hz; damping= minimal; vent type - one flared end with a diameter of 8,5cm and the length of 30,1cm Fb=24,12Hz)(Venclosure=85L);
Design 4 (BLUE)- Peerless vented (F3=29,48Hz; damping= minimal; vent type - one flared end with a diameter of 8,5cm and the length of 30,1cm Fb=22,86Hz)(Venclosure=94L);
Ok so I tried to compare each driver with the PR and the response curves are as fallow... (I peaked the power to 120W for each driver because the ScanSpeak as 150Wrms and the Peerless as 120Wrms).
But... moving on... 😎
Now comparing the drivers in vented mode...
And finally the comparison of the costume amplitude response for the Vented and passive radiator boxes.
Ok, so to my conclusions:
Between the PR enclosure I think that the ScanSpeak is better than the Peerless driver.
Between the vented both the drivers perform as I expected.
Between the PR and the Vented enclosures the ScanSpeak is the one closest to the vented enclosure.
Now for the final thoughts:
I think the PR with the ScanSpeak driver is a very good choice... but I also think the Vented for both drivers are very good...
Some questions:
Is the 120w and 150w enough for my system? I have an home cinema with 4 beyma DIY 3 way with 120Wrms in them, and a central (Beyma also) with 100Wrms.
I don't know if this drivers have enough power in them to my system!
Maybe other driver? I was thinking about the RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm (250Wrms).
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/295-468-dayton-audio-rss390hf-4-specifications-46176.pdf
But only if you guys feel this would be the right way to go! (Meanwhile I'm going to make some calculations!!)
Thanks for everything guys! hoping on earing from you! 😱
PS: My conclusions/statements can (most likely!!) be wrong! 🙄
Thanks for your input Zero D. 🙂
After working on the WinISD software, I didn't find the cone displacement curve so I went for the "BassBox 6 Pro" software (I'll post some of my configurations).
After reading a bunch of stuff I started to input some data and here are some of my results. 😀
I used 2 kind of systems, Vented and with Passive Radiators for two types of Drivers:
Passive Radiator:
Scan Speak Discovery 12” model 30W/0-00-00
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/30w-0-00-00.pdf
Drivers :
ScanSpeak DISCOVERY 12" 30W/4558T00 (150W RMS)
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/30w-4558t00.pdf
Peerless XXLS 12" 835017 (120W RMS)
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P835017 Rev 1_0.pdf
Ok, so I'm going to post now some pictures of the 4 systems...
For each Driver I did the passive radiator/vented system calculation so that the F3 value would be the lowest possible without degrading the curve response, I also didn't want a BIG box so I tried to create a medium size box.
View attachment 263313
Design 1 (RED)- Scan Speak with one PR (F3=25,67Hz; damping= typical)(Venclosure=73L);
Design 2 (ORANGE)- Peerless with one PR (F3=24,09Hz; damping= typical)(Venclosure=97L);
Design 3 (WHITE)- Scan Speak vented (F3=28,22Hz; damping= minimal; vent type - one flared end with a diameter of 8,5cm and the length of 30,1cm Fb=24,12Hz)(Venclosure=85L);
Design 4 (BLUE)- Peerless vented (F3=29,48Hz; damping= minimal; vent type - one flared end with a diameter of 8,5cm and the length of 30,1cm Fb=22,86Hz)(Venclosure=94L);
Ok so I tried to compare each driver with the PR and the response curves are as fallow... (I peaked the power to 120W for each driver because the ScanSpeak as 150Wrms and the Peerless as 120Wrms).
But... moving on... 😎
Now comparing the drivers in vented mode...
And finally the comparison of the costume amplitude response for the Vented and passive radiator boxes.
Ok, so to my conclusions:
Between the PR enclosure I think that the ScanSpeak is better than the Peerless driver.
Between the vented both the drivers perform as I expected.
Between the PR and the Vented enclosures the ScanSpeak is the one closest to the vented enclosure.
Now for the final thoughts:
I think the PR with the ScanSpeak driver is a very good choice... but I also think the Vented for both drivers are very good...
Some questions:
Is the 120w and 150w enough for my system? I have an home cinema with 4 beyma DIY 3 way with 120Wrms in them, and a central (Beyma also) with 100Wrms.
I don't know if this drivers have enough power in them to my system!
Maybe other driver? I was thinking about the RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm (250Wrms).
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/295-468-dayton-audio-rss390hf-4-specifications-46176.pdf
But only if you guys feel this would be the right way to go! (Meanwhile I'm going to make some calculations!!)
Thanks for everything guys! hoping on earing from you! 😱
PS: My conclusions/statements can (most likely!!) be wrong! 🙄
There's missing one attachment....
"Ok, so I'm going to post now some pictures of the 4 systems...
For each Driver I did the passive radiator/vented system calculation so that the F3 value would be the lowest possible without degrading the curve response, I also didn't want a BIG box so I tried to create a medium size box."
"Ok, so I'm going to post now some pictures of the 4 systems...
For each Driver I did the passive radiator/vented system calculation so that the F3 value would be the lowest possible without degrading the curve response, I also didn't want a BIG box so I tried to create a medium size box."
Enough power depends on the design, With a BR/PR design Excursion will be the limiting factor. How loud and low do you want a sub to go? How large is the room this will go in? How large a box are you willing to build, are you open to make two if large (200-300L) is not an option?
Hello fellowship of the DIY! 😀
Sorry Zero D I don't know why but that image is really small, here is a new one.
Revboden thanks for your reply, I am thinking on a Cubic design (I know it's not the most appropriate design) the room as 42m^2 (452ft^2). The sub will mainly be used in Home Cinema, the box should be between 100-150L.
After johnr66 post I read more about vented and closed enclosures designs and I did some analysis on some of the parameters of these three drivers.
First of all I read that closed design is better suited to the Home Cinema buff then the vented one. What I read is that closed boxes is for listeners looking for sound quality driven system that is clean across the entire frequency band, something that a vented one can't do without engaging in a big volume enclosure.
I know now (always learning new things!) that if the EPB is lower than 50 it's recommended to use a closed enclosure, and if the EPB is higher than 100 you should go vented, and everything between this values is your choice.
The Effective Bandwidth Product (EBP=Fs/Qes) for the given drivers are:
Peerless - 55
ScanSpeak - 50
Dayton - 36,7
I'm going for the closed design, seems to be a better choice due to the fact that I want a better sound quality across the entire frequency band and I don't want a big box in the room.
Now for some numbers:
Peerless
-12dB @ 22,48Hz
F3 = 45Hz
Max dB(@120Wrms)= 110.6dB
Maximum X(@120Wrms)=9.05mm
Xmax = N/a
ScanSpeak
-12db @ 21.68Hz
F3=42.7Hz
Max dB(@120Wrms)= 110.8dB
Maximum X(@150Wrms)=10.1mm
Xmax = N/a
Dayton
-12db @ 17.44Hz
F3=34.3Hz
Max dB(@250W)= 112.2dB
Maximum X(@250W)=10.9 mm
Xmax reached at 415W
Maintaining the input power at 120W and comparing the acoustic power at 20Hz the Peerless and the ScanSpeak will give 96dB and the Dayton will give 99db.
Now analyzing at their maximum input power (for the Dayton I will use the 250W and not the 500W because Xmax was reached at 415W and I think this input will be enough!) at 20Hz the Peerless gives 96dB the ScanSpeak 97dB and the Dayton gives 102dB.
I'm going to post some images of the amplitude curves and cone displacement for these three drivers at an input of 250W, this is only to show the difference between the three drivers.
My thoughts are that the ScanSpeak/Peerless are two very similar drivers in closed enclosures.
The dayton has a better amplitude response with a better cone displacement within the same power input.
Because I'm leaning to a closed design I think the dayton will suite me better, mainly because it has more power in it and slightly better amplitude response.
Note: All the above designs are for Hi Fidelity in order to have best flat response as possible.
Sorry Zero D I don't know why but that image is really small, here is a new one.
Revboden thanks for your reply, I am thinking on a Cubic design (I know it's not the most appropriate design) the room as 42m^2 (452ft^2). The sub will mainly be used in Home Cinema, the box should be between 100-150L.
After johnr66 post I read more about vented and closed enclosures designs and I did some analysis on some of the parameters of these three drivers.
First of all I read that closed design is better suited to the Home Cinema buff then the vented one. What I read is that closed boxes is for listeners looking for sound quality driven system that is clean across the entire frequency band, something that a vented one can't do without engaging in a big volume enclosure.
I know now (always learning new things!) that if the EPB is lower than 50 it's recommended to use a closed enclosure, and if the EPB is higher than 100 you should go vented, and everything between this values is your choice.
The Effective Bandwidth Product (EBP=Fs/Qes) for the given drivers are:
Peerless - 55
ScanSpeak - 50
Dayton - 36,7
I'm going for the closed design, seems to be a better choice due to the fact that I want a better sound quality across the entire frequency band and I don't want a big box in the room.
Now for some numbers:
Peerless
-12dB @ 22,48Hz
F3 = 45Hz
Max dB(@120Wrms)= 110.6dB
Maximum X(@120Wrms)=9.05mm
Xmax = N/a
ScanSpeak
-12db @ 21.68Hz
F3=42.7Hz
Max dB(@120Wrms)= 110.8dB
Maximum X(@150Wrms)=10.1mm
Xmax = N/a
Dayton
-12db @ 17.44Hz
F3=34.3Hz
Max dB(@250W)= 112.2dB
Maximum X(@250W)=10.9 mm
Xmax reached at 415W
Maintaining the input power at 120W and comparing the acoustic power at 20Hz the Peerless and the ScanSpeak will give 96dB and the Dayton will give 99db.
Now analyzing at their maximum input power (for the Dayton I will use the 250W and not the 500W because Xmax was reached at 415W and I think this input will be enough!) at 20Hz the Peerless gives 96dB the ScanSpeak 97dB and the Dayton gives 102dB.
I'm going to post some images of the amplitude curves and cone displacement for these three drivers at an input of 250W, this is only to show the difference between the three drivers.
My thoughts are that the ScanSpeak/Peerless are two very similar drivers in closed enclosures.
The dayton has a better amplitude response with a better cone displacement within the same power input.
Because I'm leaning to a closed design I think the dayton will suite me better, mainly because it has more power in it and slightly better amplitude response.
Note: All the above designs are for Hi Fidelity in order to have best flat response as possible.
Looks good,
I know the rss390HF-4 very well and something is wrong with the BBP model, you'll need 158L to get a Qtc of .707 a external box with external 23"h x 23"w x 24"d box with a double thick baffle board would get you that.
With a little EQ to bring the top end (30-80hz) down a bit The 390hf makes a monster HT sub. 😀
You can make a BR box sound as good as a sealed box but you have to tune it very low (14-16Hz), so you are correct, that requires a large box.
edit: If you want an example of a very good sounding ported sub using 6.3ft^3 and a rss315hf-4 I made one. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197238-my-little-build.html
I know the rss390HF-4 very well and something is wrong with the BBP model, you'll need 158L to get a Qtc of .707 a external box with external 23"h x 23"w x 24"d box with a double thick baffle board would get you that.
With a little EQ to bring the top end (30-80hz) down a bit The 390hf makes a monster HT sub. 😀
You can make a BR box sound as good as a sealed box but you have to tune it very low (14-16Hz), so you are correct, that requires a large box.
edit: If you want an example of a very good sounding ported sub using 6.3ft^3 and a rss315hf-4 I made one. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197238-my-little-build.html
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Hello guys,
So now that I'm going for the design posted in the previous thread, I want to know what kind of plate amplifier should I buy... I live in Portugal and a can't find places with this kind of products... I was thinking about the Hypex DS 2.0 here are some specs...
DS2.0
Continuous output power (8 Ohm) 100 Watts
Continuous output power (4 Ohm)
Gain (RCA input)
Gain (High level input)
Input sensitivity (RCA input)
Input sensitivity (High level input
175 Watts
46dB
16,5dB
0,13Vrms
4Vrms
Subsonic-filter 12Hz / -3dB, 24dB/Octave
Phase 0° - 180°, 180° - 360°
Crossover frequency subwoofer 30Hz - 120Hz, 18dB/Octave
Bassboost 20Hz - 50Hz
Bassboost level 0dB - +6dB
Damping factor 500
Protection Output shortcut
Crossover filtering 18dB/Octave
Input impedance RCA 10 kOhm
Input impedance high level 1 kOhm
What do you guys think?
Has it enough power to my room? my 5 surround speakers are 120Wrms, but it doesn't mean I pump them to the limit. Is it enough for a closed design or should I go for the 500Wrms the Hypex DS 4.0?
Really need a help on this!
Thanks guys!
So now that I'm going for the design posted in the previous thread, I want to know what kind of plate amplifier should I buy... I live in Portugal and a can't find places with this kind of products... I was thinking about the Hypex DS 2.0 here are some specs...
DS2.0
Continuous output power (8 Ohm) 100 Watts
Continuous output power (4 Ohm)
Gain (RCA input)
Gain (High level input)
Input sensitivity (RCA input)
Input sensitivity (High level input
175 Watts
46dB
16,5dB
0,13Vrms
4Vrms
Subsonic-filter 12Hz / -3dB, 24dB/Octave
Phase 0° - 180°, 180° - 360°
Crossover frequency subwoofer 30Hz - 120Hz, 18dB/Octave
Bassboost 20Hz - 50Hz
Bassboost level 0dB - +6dB
Damping factor 500
Protection Output shortcut
Crossover filtering 18dB/Octave
Input impedance RCA 10 kOhm
Input impedance high level 1 kOhm
What do you guys think?
Has it enough power to my room? my 5 surround speakers are 120Wrms, but it doesn't mean I pump them to the limit. Is it enough for a closed design or should I go for the 500Wrms the Hypex DS 4.0?
Really need a help on this!
Thanks guys!
Little..... RRRRiiiiiight!!!
Your DIY look very nice!! what kind on amp do you have driving it?
I''m going with the Dayton closed design with a volume of 107L (3,56cu.ft). The box and driver properties are the same as I posted in my previous thread (box is going to be a cube). What do you think? Is 170Wrms enough? or should I go for the 400Wrms? I really don't know what to choose in this situation.
Thanks Revboden!
I'm using a Dayton SPA500 for my little sub. For the rss390hf-4 in 107L I'd go with the 400w amp no HP filter needed.
You will only need 300w to reach Xmax at 20hz but I find It's nice to have some headroom on the amp to avoid clipping especially at low frequencies.
BTW, the F12 of that design is at 18hz / 100db 😀
You will only need 300w to reach Xmax at 20hz but I find It's nice to have some headroom on the amp to avoid clipping especially at low frequencies.
BTW, the F12 of that design is at 18hz / 100db 😀
Last edited:
Thanks for your info revboden... I'll go for the 400W amp has you said, I really don't want any clipping on this piece of hardware!
I'm going to purchase the hardware on-line and when it arrives I'll post more news, pictures and comments about the quality construction and other things!
I'm going to purchase the hardware on-line and when it arrives I'll post more news, pictures and comments about the quality construction and other things!
Hello guys!
I'm still waiting for my components, and thinking about the MDF wood for my box, should I go for a 3/4" (1.9cm) or thicker? I've the chance of doing it with a board of 3cm thick, should I go with it or not? If not is the 3/4" enough?
By the way, last week I tried the Grand Utopia from FOCAL... and my jaw fell to the ground. The guy could get me the driver of the Electra Subwoofer the "Electra SW 1000 Be" but I had allready placed and payed my order for the Dayton driver...
I'm still waiting for my components, and thinking about the MDF wood for my box, should I go for a 3/4" (1.9cm) or thicker? I've the chance of doing it with a board of 3cm thick, should I go with it or not? If not is the 3/4" enough?
By the way, last week I tried the Grand Utopia from FOCAL... and my jaw fell to the ground. The guy could get me the driver of the Electra Subwoofer the "Electra SW 1000 Be" but I had allready placed and payed my order for the Dayton driver...
FINALLY!!!
Allrighty then😀!!!
I've made it!!!! And it sounds like a piece of art, musically it's warm like I can't describe it's evolving, all the sound specter is present, the sound pressure is amazing for a sealed box and its accuracy is amazing. My SACDs like Diana Krall, Patricia Barber, Sting, Sade and etc, sound rich like never before.
I've never imagined that a well built subwoofer could have such a outstanding impact.
Don't get me wrong I know a sub is a good piece of equipment for both music and films but the subs I've eared where not has harmonic and sound pleasing as this one.
Maybe they where misplaced, but mostly you could know where the sound was coming from and it wasn't tight and not as accurate.
OK, now why the wait, why didn't I wright a single word since my last post?
Well, after I placed the order of the speaker and spikes, they didn't have the spikes in stock, and I've waited 4 weeks for them to be available in stock and another 1 week to be delivered. The minute I've received my order of the speaker and spikes, I started to build the box, 3cm MDF, and middle bracings the box was waterproofed with a sealer, then I veneered it with Oak, stained it, applied the spikes and the frame dowels.
And here is the picture of the box...
Then I placed the order of the plate amplifier, the Hypex DS4.0, and guess what it also was not in stock! Ok so I waited... waited for 1 month and sent an email, no response, waited for another month, sent an email and phoned to the company, no reply. After 2 and half months the brand product got out of the site which for me could only mean the company I was buying from (EuropeAudio) and the Hypex parted ways... It was a really bad sign for me...
After 3 and a half months I talked to a friend of mine that is living in Holland so he could call the company and... he did and they said that the product was coming on a Friday, after it was in stock they took 2 entire week to sent me the Amp... Neitherless to say that I am really skeptical about working again with a company that doesn't respond to emails and to phone calls. I even wrote an email in Dutch!!! and even so no reply...
When it FINALLY arrived I damped the box mounted everything and it finally was completed!!
Here is my final picture
The total mass of the sub is of around 60Kg and it's a cube with a length of 50cm.
Then I searched for the perfect spot for it... the famous knee search! (some of you may say...what the hell is that!! Well... although you can't (shouldn't is the right word!) locate the spot of subwoofer, for that to happen you have to listen to music rich in bass (I advice to a soft bass rich music) and then position the sub on your listening position, afterwards you have to crawl on your knees searching for the perfect sound! It should be where the music sounds perfect in every frequency the sub is outputting and it doesn't sound out of control.
I then tested it with some DVD DTS (War of Worlds) and DD (Star wars, the Pod race part and THX presentation) blue ray movies with DTS HD MA (Avatar, Riddick and Bourne).
The THX presentation with the sphere and the lighting strikes your clothes trembles and your jaw opens, NOW it really sound like you’re in the middle of it all! The Mechs in Avatar sound amazing as of course the explosions the ships and all the bass rich track that the almighty powerful LFE can give with a good sub!
As you can see behind my subwoofer there's my Left Front Speaker, my rear speakers are equal to this one, only my central as only one tweeter and two midrange.
I've heard people saying that Basstronic is a real test to the sub, taking it to the limit and the sub handles it perfectly.
Allrighty then😀!!!
I've made it!!!! And it sounds like a piece of art, musically it's warm like I can't describe it's evolving, all the sound specter is present, the sound pressure is amazing for a sealed box and its accuracy is amazing. My SACDs like Diana Krall, Patricia Barber, Sting, Sade and etc, sound rich like never before.
I've never imagined that a well built subwoofer could have such a outstanding impact.
Don't get me wrong I know a sub is a good piece of equipment for both music and films but the subs I've eared where not has harmonic and sound pleasing as this one.
Maybe they where misplaced, but mostly you could know where the sound was coming from and it wasn't tight and not as accurate.
OK, now why the wait, why didn't I wright a single word since my last post?
Well, after I placed the order of the speaker and spikes, they didn't have the spikes in stock, and I've waited 4 weeks for them to be available in stock and another 1 week to be delivered. The minute I've received my order of the speaker and spikes, I started to build the box, 3cm MDF, and middle bracings the box was waterproofed with a sealer, then I veneered it with Oak, stained it, applied the spikes and the frame dowels.
And here is the picture of the box...
Then I placed the order of the plate amplifier, the Hypex DS4.0, and guess what it also was not in stock! Ok so I waited... waited for 1 month and sent an email, no response, waited for another month, sent an email and phoned to the company, no reply. After 2 and half months the brand product got out of the site which for me could only mean the company I was buying from (EuropeAudio) and the Hypex parted ways... It was a really bad sign for me...
After 3 and a half months I talked to a friend of mine that is living in Holland so he could call the company and... he did and they said that the product was coming on a Friday, after it was in stock they took 2 entire week to sent me the Amp... Neitherless to say that I am really skeptical about working again with a company that doesn't respond to emails and to phone calls. I even wrote an email in Dutch!!! and even so no reply...
When it FINALLY arrived I damped the box mounted everything and it finally was completed!!
Here is my final picture
The total mass of the sub is of around 60Kg and it's a cube with a length of 50cm.
Then I searched for the perfect spot for it... the famous knee search! (some of you may say...what the hell is that!! Well... although you can't (shouldn't is the right word!) locate the spot of subwoofer, for that to happen you have to listen to music rich in bass (I advice to a soft bass rich music) and then position the sub on your listening position, afterwards you have to crawl on your knees searching for the perfect sound! It should be where the music sounds perfect in every frequency the sub is outputting and it doesn't sound out of control.
I then tested it with some DVD DTS (War of Worlds) and DD (Star wars, the Pod race part and THX presentation) blue ray movies with DTS HD MA (Avatar, Riddick and Bourne).
The THX presentation with the sphere and the lighting strikes your clothes trembles and your jaw opens, NOW it really sound like you’re in the middle of it all! The Mechs in Avatar sound amazing as of course the explosions the ships and all the bass rich track that the almighty powerful LFE can give with a good sub!
As you can see behind my subwoofer there's my Left Front Speaker, my rear speakers are equal to this one, only my central as only one tweeter and two midrange.
I've heard people saying that Basstronic is a real test to the sub, taking it to the limit and the sub handles it perfectly.
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