Hi everyone. Im new forum member, Im looking to repair my Heco Victa 500 with new tweeters. The old ones have burned out 2 times and and look very cheap. Im not willing to put them again so im looking for 2 new and must be matched and product at least the same quality of sound (why no better). Im from Greece...i could give 40-50€. Any suggestion??? (and sorry for my terrible english..not my first language..i will use ebay to order them..i think) And some photos which maybe help you with suggestions (last pic is dimensions cm*). Thank you
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It is quite impossible to suggest a replacement tweeter without knowing the specs of the original one. The specs needed are at least SPL, nominal impedance (voice coil resistance would be better), and resonant frequency. Knowing the crossover point would be nice. Ideally a replacement tweeter should have the same SPL and an impedance very similar to the original one at least in the crossover point. If not the crossover won't work as intended.
Are there any marks on the original tweeter that can suggest its mfg?
Your best bet is to find the original tweeters. Fitting other ones can be a waste of money if they don't have the same specs, and you don't have measurement equipment in order to modify the existing crossover to have it to work correctly with the new tweeters.
One last point: any burned driver is a misused one. You should investigate why it happened, chances are that it will happen again. Your amp can be the problem.
Ralf
Are there any marks on the original tweeter that can suggest its mfg?
Your best bet is to find the original tweeters. Fitting other ones can be a waste of money if they don't have the same specs, and you don't have measurement equipment in order to modify the existing crossover to have it to work correctly with the new tweeters.
One last point: any burned driver is a misused one. You should investigate why it happened, chances are that it will happen again. Your amp can be the problem.
Ralf
As I said, without specs you should buy the original tweeters.
As a last resort try to leave the Heco sticker and have a look under, to see if there is a mfg logo and part number.
Try to understand why you have burned the tweeters, it is unlikely a fault of the tweeters.
Ralf
As a last resort try to leave the Heco sticker and have a look under, to see if there is a mfg logo and part number.
Try to understand why you have burned the tweeters, it is unlikely a fault of the tweeters.
Ralf
For perspective, here are details of the speaker system: https://productz.com/en/heco-victa-500/p/lxxd7
70 euros for 1 tweeter is too much. 3-5 years ago i order them in Greece for 30 euros...2 of them!! 140 for 2 tweeters is big no. 140€ is not even the price for 2 used for these speakers
The Monacor DT-100 tweeter is a close match in regard to its faceplate's physical dimensions (11.6cm x 8.0cm) and should fall within your price range.
It has a DCR of 5.7 ohm and a nominal impedance of 8 ohm.
However, your Heco Victa 500 speakers would appear to have a nominal impedance of 4 ohm, in which case some adjustment of the high pass filter may be required.
https://willys-hifi.com/products/monacor-dt-100-tweeter
It has a DCR of 5.7 ohm and a nominal impedance of 8 ohm.
However, your Heco Victa 500 speakers would appear to have a nominal impedance of 4 ohm, in which case some adjustment of the high pass filter may be required.
https://willys-hifi.com/products/monacor-dt-100-tweeter
I think that they blew because of very high volume and bad quality of av. I cant find them in low price like 5 years ago...actually i cant find them at all in my country i live. http://retrointerfacing.edwindertien.nl/diy/heco-victa-200-repair/ something similar with what you said
But requires modifying an 8 ohm Monacor DT75/8 tweeter (small faceplate) to fit into the larger Heco faceplate.
It would certainly be easier just to fit the Monacor DT-100 tweeters in their intact form.
This looks like a tweeter from China with a heco sticker, there are 4 and 8 ohm versions.. very inexpensive! Alinexpres
It is glued in a faceplate so it looks better and maybe for dispersion.
It is glued in a faceplate so it looks better and maybe for dispersion.
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Thank you all for the help. So, to close the thread, what do you suggest between Monacor and Aiyima?
Aiyima is 20 watt max or rms? because monacor is 25 and 30 watt RMS (the 2 models)
Aiyima, Monacor dt-75 or Monacor dt-100?
Aiyima is 20 watt max or rms? because monacor is 25 and 30 watt RMS (the 2 models)
Aiyima, Monacor dt-75 or Monacor dt-100?
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If the original tweeter is a 4 ohm model it should be replaced with another 4 ohm model. Otherwise, you may have to make component changes in the HF filter.
To give a half reasonable answer to your question then you would have to do the following:
If one of your original tweeters is intact, please measure its dc resistance.
Also, can you give details of the crossover - photos of the crossover board or photos of the individual components, if not mounted on a board.
Measure the dc resistance of the entire speaker system across the input terminals while you are at it.
To give a half reasonable answer to your question then you would have to do the following:
If one of your original tweeters is intact, please measure its dc resistance.
Also, can you give details of the crossover - photos of the crossover board or photos of the individual components, if not mounted on a board.
Measure the dc resistance of the entire speaker system across the input terminals while you are at it.
I measured it and it says numbers between 9,5-10 ohm. Im talking about tweeters
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im working right now and dont have the speaker with me at the job 😛. I will measure it when ill go home. This is the speaker (from internet) and this is our multimeter. How i will measure it? what i will choose and where i will put it ? black/red up? or down? and i have send photos of crossover when i opened the thread..but if you need something more i will send you when im home. Thank you for trying help me(again)
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OK. The label on the speaker says 4 to 8 ohm.
Your meter reading seems on the high side. Remember to subtract the resistance of the test leads themselves, although that should only be a small fraction of an ohm.
The terminals allow for biwiring. As there are no metal links between the top and bottom pair of terminals I presume you are, indeed, using separate cables from the amplifier to the top and bottom terminals?
Your meter reading seems on the high side. Remember to subtract the resistance of the test leads themselves, although that should only be a small fraction of an ohm.
The terminals allow for biwiring. As there are no metal links between the top and bottom pair of terminals I presume you are, indeed, using separate cables from the amplifier to the top and bottom terminals?