Hey.... new here 🙂
Read around a bit before seeing no topic similar to mine , but that isn't a surprise as I do things a little " Different "
Here is the thing......
I just bought a beautiful 1980 Fiat Pininfarina Spider 2000 35 yr anniversary.
It has no radio nor a slot for it. I built a support bracket for a 7" tablet and installed a dual gang 'pot' for simple volume control. I installed my 3566 in the trunk where incidentally that is where the battery is too. I will have no other control to the amp than my 'pot' and a way to turn on and off the amp.
The question is simple...... on this amp there are my +- terminal connections and in between the 2 there is what is labeled as a 'trigger' I assumed I could use that terminal with either a switch or a switched relay to power on and off the amp at will. I have 2 front speakers, 2 back and 1 dual voice sub by pioneer.
I am not sure how to accomplish this as I have no user manuals or hook up schematics.
As a side bar....I do not need fader controls as I will manually set them on the amp. I know this is not the traditional route but I wanted absolutely the minimum for this car.
Thanks in advance 🙂
Read around a bit before seeing no topic similar to mine , but that isn't a surprise as I do things a little " Different "
Here is the thing......
I just bought a beautiful 1980 Fiat Pininfarina Spider 2000 35 yr anniversary.
It has no radio nor a slot for it. I built a support bracket for a 7" tablet and installed a dual gang 'pot' for simple volume control. I installed my 3566 in the trunk where incidentally that is where the battery is too. I will have no other control to the amp than my 'pot' and a way to turn on and off the amp.
The question is simple...... on this amp there are my +- terminal connections and in between the 2 there is what is labeled as a 'trigger' I assumed I could use that terminal with either a switch or a switched relay to power on and off the amp at will. I have 2 front speakers, 2 back and 1 dual voice sub by pioneer.
I am not sure how to accomplish this as I have no user manuals or hook up schematics.
As a side bar....I do not need fader controls as I will manually set them on the amp. I know this is not the traditional route but I wanted absolutely the minimum for this car.
Thanks in advance 🙂
Alpine generally uses 'remote' for the remote turn-on terminal. Post a photo of your amp's terminals.
Thanks for your response Perry.....
I was poking around here and found a 3566 'manual' and terminal descriptions.
I attached it.
As I assumed, the remote terminal (terminal 20) is infact a 'switch' of sorts.
It is stated in the manual to attach to the radio head's power antennae lead.
This lead ,again, I assume is an output of voltage or a ground to engage the antennae motor, but is it a positive, negative, and is it a latching or a momentary....
I ,as asked in my original post, would like to create a trigger so I can switch on and off the amp.
I was poking around here and found a 3566 'manual' and terminal descriptions.
I attached it.
As I assumed, the remote terminal (terminal 20) is infact a 'switch' of sorts.
It is stated in the manual to attach to the radio head's power antennae lead.
This lead ,again, I assume is an output of voltage or a ground to engage the antennae motor, but is it a positive, negative, and is it a latching or a momentary....
I ,as asked in my original post, would like to create a trigger so I can switch on and off the amp.
The remote terminal for most all amps is a switched 12v. When 12v is applied to the terminal, the amp powers up. When 12v is removed, the voltage drops to 0v and the amp shuts down.
Cool.... that defineatly confirms that aspect of my question, thanks 🙂
Next part is:
If it is indeed a 12v 'latching' , this means I can use a simple toggle switch?
Would you know what amperage of 12v this would require?
I am not much of an audio electronic guy but I assume seeing as it is such high amperage from the battery direct there is a relay of some sort. That would lead me to believe I could get away with a simple 1 amp fused feed?
Again thanks for the first part...... it means I did not run those extra wires for nothing and can continue with my build 🙂
Next part is:
If it is indeed a 12v 'latching' , this means I can use a simple toggle switch?
Would you know what amperage of 12v this would require?
I am not much of an audio electronic guy but I assume seeing as it is such high amperage from the battery direct there is a relay of some sort. That would lead me to believe I could get away with a simple 1 amp fused feed?
Again thanks for the first part...... it means I did not run those extra wires for nothing and can continue with my build 🙂
Latching would generally be a circuit that you'd apply a momentary signal and the mode would change until it received a second signal.
This is just a constant on or off, like your headlights, they're on when voltage is applied and off when the voltage source is disconnected.
The current to the remote terminal is minimal, less than 50ma (0.050 amps) for most amps.
You could use a toggle switch if the head unit doesn't have an output that you can use but unless you want to turn the amp off with the head unit on, you could simply use the 'ignition' wire feeding the head unit.
1 amp is enough to feed the remote.
This is just a constant on or off, like your headlights, they're on when voltage is applied and off when the voltage source is disconnected.
The current to the remote terminal is minimal, less than 50ma (0.050 amps) for most amps.
You could use a toggle switch if the head unit doesn't have an output that you can use but unless you want to turn the amp off with the head unit on, you could simply use the 'ignition' wire feeding the head unit.
1 amp is enough to feed the remote.
Dude.... you just made me very happy that my theory is correct and my build will work.
As I said in my post I will not be using any 'radio head' to control.... only a dual gang pot and now this toggle switch.
I want to thank you for the time you took to answer my questions..... you are a generous human. 🙂
I will post pics when I am done if interested
As I said in my post I will not be using any 'radio head' to control.... only a dual gang pot and now this toggle switch.
I want to thank you for the time you took to answer my questions..... you are a generous human. 🙂
I will post pics when I am done if interested
Some devices supply a low voltage for condenser mics in their headphone jacks. You may want to do some research to see if you could use that to switch the amp on/off. You'd have to use a couple of transistors to get 12v switched but it may eliminate the need for the toggle switch and only turn the amp on when the tablet is on.
A bluetooth device may be another option for switching the amp on/off.
A bluetooth device may be another option for switching the amp on/off.
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