Hi All
I have thoughts about to use the rolls of a old laterprinter fuser for a laminator a la kees.
I have need a little software program in a pic for the temp and motor adjustment, motor for example a little stepper, I think there are software goeroes here🙄
I came to this idea because the fuser from a laserprinter have two rolls where one of them get hot with a infrared lamp, this roll is not driven so I do not now about slipping, the paper of the printer do not slip so I think it will work, a pcb just fits easely, the rollers has two big springs for pressure.
With this we have a laminator who do get hot enough without bubbles to get toner on the pcb.
I have to disassemble the fuser and make new plates and add a motor, like it is on photo it is afcourse not usable, but it eat pcb with ease
with handpower.
regards
kees
I have thoughts about to use the rolls of a old laterprinter fuser for a laminator a la kees.
I have need a little software program in a pic for the temp and motor adjustment, motor for example a little stepper, I think there are software goeroes here🙄
I came to this idea because the fuser from a laserprinter have two rolls where one of them get hot with a infrared lamp, this roll is not driven so I do not now about slipping, the paper of the printer do not slip so I think it will work, a pcb just fits easely, the rollers has two big springs for pressure.
With this we have a laminator who do get hot enough without bubbles to get toner on the pcb.
I have to disassemble the fuser and make new plates and add a motor, like it is on photo it is afcourse not usable, but it eat pcb with ease
with handpower.
regards
kees
Attachments
Powering the heater for this will be the easy part, no need for a micro controller, just some sort of cheap adjustable PWM regulator (it this one mains voltage?).
The motor will be harder. If you have the rest of the printer I would try to strip the gearing and motors out of that and use it, since it is a stepper motor you would be able to run it at a set speed with a fairly cheap controller. Otherwise go for a reduction drive motor so that you can attach it directly to one of the shafts without designing your own gearing.
I have a similar looking fuser unit sitting around but I worked out it would be cheaper and easier to buy a very cheap laminator and just replace the heater control.
The motor will be harder. If you have the rest of the printer I would try to strip the gearing and motors out of that and use it, since it is a stepper motor you would be able to run it at a set speed with a fairly cheap controller. Otherwise go for a reduction drive motor so that you can attach it directly to one of the shafts without designing your own gearing.
I have a similar looking fuser unit sitting around but I worked out it would be cheaper and easier to buy a very cheap laminator and just replace the heater control.
this is a pretty good guide
UltraKeet Australia - PCB Superfuser using a GBC Creative laminator
is a good guide for the laminator option.
I do however appreciate the enjoyment in repurposing a throwaway into something useful. 🙂 Good Luck!
I have a cheap ex ebay stepper motor driver you can have. Pm me if you like. You pay the postage though!
UltraKeet Australia - PCB Superfuser using a GBC Creative laminator
is a good guide for the laminator option.
I do however appreciate the enjoyment in repurposing a throwaway into something useful. 🙂 Good Luck!
I have a cheap ex ebay stepper motor driver you can have. Pm me if you like. You pay the postage though!
UltraKeet Australia - PCB Superfuser using a GBC Creative laminator
is a good guide for the laminator option.
I do however appreciate the enjoyment in repurposing a throwaway into something useful. 🙂 Good Luck!
I have a cheap ex ebay stepper motor driver you can have. Pm me if you like. You pay the postage though!
Hi There
the fuser from the HP did not fit, a strange heating element not in the roll, so I need a other one, the old ones with a lamp in it are good, that is a hollow roll wthout the creased sheet.
Thanks for the stepper motor driver, but I have some here, did made them a time ago, and also i have a lot of motors so i do find it I hope.
The laminator you mention is this with a heated roll? because these are the best for pcb toner transfer.
I do look to the link. However I have now make the Rexel LP20 fit for pcb, I did change the bearings so there is more play, not it eat 1.6 mm pcb with ease. Only the heating element is a aluminium plate who sit between the rolls this do not work well except when make it extremely hot what will meld the plastics.
regards
This guy did also a test with a old fuser, the fuserversions with a lamp inside work best.
New fuser unit and first etch! | Warranty Void if Removed
regards
kees
New fuser unit and first etch! | Warranty Void if Removed
regards
kees
Are there any affordable options for a hard surface laser printer that can handle PCBs?
Could a cheap laser printer that has a straight path printing cycle be modified for this?
Then you could just put a blank board through without having to worry about a separate toner transfer and such.
Could a cheap laser printer that has a straight path printing cycle be modified for this?
Then you could just put a blank board through without having to worry about a separate toner transfer and such.
Are there any affordable options for a hard surface laser printer that can handle PCBs?
Could a cheap laser printer that has a straight path printing cycle be modified for this?
Then you could just put a blank board through without having to worry about a separate toner transfer and such.
This will not work, drum is never straight and the whole printer has to narrow feed trough.
Idea is there afcourse.
But Remove the laser and make a system who light the photosensitive print lying still with a uv laser like a laserprinter does but without a transport just the laser moves, these things do exists.
The fuser thing do work, a heated roll geive better warmth than a element nearby, plus the fuser can be 200 degrees without problems.
regards
It wont work because the copper surface would dissipate the static charge necessary for the toner to stick.
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