I'm sorry if this has been covered before. The Search feature is not working for some reason.
I'm getting close to finishing my cabinets (1.24m high TWQTL) built in 18mm MDF.
These will be going in the living room, so I want a decent finish.
I can't buy wide enough veneer sheets to cover the sides, so I'm going to paint them.
My question is what is the recommended method - brush, roller or spray can? And what type of paint?
I've watched several videos, some showing brush, some showing roller, and some spray can.
They all include good preparation (filling, priming, sanding,etc.), so that's a given.
I just want an easy-to-apply method that will give me a quality finish.
I am even contemplating only coating one face at a time - the upper face. Then hopefully letting gravity smooth the wet surface out.🙄
I'm getting close to finishing my cabinets (1.24m high TWQTL) built in 18mm MDF.
These will be going in the living room, so I want a decent finish.
I can't buy wide enough veneer sheets to cover the sides, so I'm going to paint them.
My question is what is the recommended method - brush, roller or spray can? And what type of paint?
I've watched several videos, some showing brush, some showing roller, and some spray can.
They all include good preparation (filling, priming, sanding,etc.), so that's a given.
I just want an easy-to-apply method that will give me a quality finish.
I am even contemplating only coating one face at a time - the upper face. Then hopefully letting gravity smooth the wet surface out.🙄
After really good filling and sanding, lay down primer and sand lightly. It’s really hard to get a good finish with brushes or a roller, it can be done but….
Spraying from a gun equidistant and perpendicular to the surface is best. Do a few light coats and a medium to finish.
you can also use those foam pad type things, not the foam brushes, to lay flat on the surface and paint without streaks.
thinner paint has always worked better for me. More coats but less gloppynes, that’s a technical term, as it flows better. Most importantly, take your time.
Spraying from a gun equidistant and perpendicular to the surface is best. Do a few light coats and a medium to finish.
you can also use those foam pad type things, not the foam brushes, to lay flat on the surface and paint without streaks.
thinner paint has always worked better for me. More coats but less gloppynes, that’s a technical term, as it flows better. Most importantly, take your time.
Here's some examples:
https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1219/my-shop-kit
Painted Tarkus
https://www.deviantart.com/bolland83/art/Tarkus-speakers-342131596
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...53366-bolland83-s-faux-wood-technique-for-mdf
https://zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=15285
Derek Walton (old site) Pi One Towers
https://web.archive.org/web/20071029171747/http://iol.ie/~waltonaudio/pione.html
https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1219/my-shop-kit
Painted Tarkus
https://www.deviantart.com/bolland83/art/Tarkus-speakers-342131596
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...53366-bolland83-s-faux-wood-technique-for-mdf
https://zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=15285
Derek Walton (old site) Pi One Towers
https://web.archive.org/web/20071029171747/http://iol.ie/~waltonaudio/pione.html
I suggest sealing the MDF with PVA drywall primer (or use diluted wood glue,) otherwise the MDF will keep absorbing the paint in areas that you have cut, sanded, etc.
Also I disagree that you can't get a good rolled finish, it won't be totally smooth though, it will have an orange peel texture. Easy to repair too.
I use a small (3-4 inch long and like 1 inch diameter) cabinet roller to paint, either foam or fine fleece.
But yeah, if you want smooooth like butter you gotta spray, and sand, and spray, etc.
A totally different idea is to use vinyl auto wrap, it comes in many really cool colors and finishes.
Also I disagree that you can't get a good rolled finish, it won't be totally smooth though, it will have an orange peel texture. Easy to repair too.
I use a small (3-4 inch long and like 1 inch diameter) cabinet roller to paint, either foam or fine fleece.
But yeah, if you want smooooth like butter you gotta spray, and sand, and spray, etc.
A totally different idea is to use vinyl auto wrap, it comes in many really cool colors and finishes.
Thanks everyone.
I was leaning toward spraying (rattle can), but maybe hiring a gun might be worth it (if it is in good condition and I match the paint to the gun/nozzle).
I've done plenty of painting in my time (rooms, small items), but never where a good finish is needed.
I worried about orangepeel or brush marks, but low quality spray cans can tend to splatter.
BTW, I'm after a dark grey matt or semi-matt finish - not a high gloss.
I was leaning toward spraying (rattle can), but maybe hiring a gun might be worth it (if it is in good condition and I match the paint to the gun/nozzle).
I've done plenty of painting in my time (rooms, small items), but never where a good finish is needed.
I worried about orangepeel or brush marks, but low quality spray cans can tend to splatter.
BTW, I'm after a dark grey matt or semi-matt finish - not a high gloss.
The friendliest DIY method of finishing a cabinet would be veneering, meaning the least amount of trouble and labor involved. You can have the veneer sheets stiched professionally. On the other hand, preparing a surface for a nice paint job is really a lot of work and a dusty/nasty job.
Painting to a Living Room acceptable is possible,of course, but takes lots of work and experience,because you are starting with a terrible surface: MDF
It absorbs paint like the sponge it is, there are terrible "scars" along each joint, nail or screw heads to hide, the works.
And it will stand besides "real" furniture, professionally finished ... no way comparisons do NOT favour you.
The point being that paint FULLY depends on surface it´s being applied to .... and you are starting with a terrible surface.
As mentioned above, best way, by far, is to bypass the problem completely by covering it with a smooth and well finished NEW surface glued on and hiding it.
Veneer of some kind is best, which then can be sprayed , sanded, resprayed, as needed, but you are starting with a good surface. (The veneer surface that is).
Or apply some kind of vinyl over MDF, either fake wood (there are some very convincing ones) or flat colours,dark grey or black if you wish.
Just as a side option, IF you are not trying to match "furniture" or you have a modernistic living room, you can try rolled on Duratex type finish, similar to what DJs and PA guys use often, a glorified bed truck liner finish.
It´s thick with a vengeance and covers surface blemishes very well, of course it´s a very "industrial" finish.
Also consider some kind of vinyl surface wall paper, there are some very cool ones.
Again: the idea is to hide MDF surface, joints, etc. which will drive you crazy.
PS: build a few "test joints" out of 2 small pieces of MDF, say 2 10 by 10 or 15 by 15 cm pleces, glue/nail/screw them together as if they were one edge of your cabinet and practice on them: sanding, sealing, painting, veneering, etc.
Failures are disposable and cheap, while the real cabinet is not.
Once you are happy with one technique and finish, apply it to the real cabinet.
It absorbs paint like the sponge it is, there are terrible "scars" along each joint, nail or screw heads to hide, the works.
And it will stand besides "real" furniture, professionally finished ... no way comparisons do NOT favour you.
The point being that paint FULLY depends on surface it´s being applied to .... and you are starting with a terrible surface.
As mentioned above, best way, by far, is to bypass the problem completely by covering it with a smooth and well finished NEW surface glued on and hiding it.
Veneer of some kind is best, which then can be sprayed , sanded, resprayed, as needed, but you are starting with a good surface. (The veneer surface that is).
Or apply some kind of vinyl over MDF, either fake wood (there are some very convincing ones) or flat colours,dark grey or black if you wish.
Just as a side option, IF you are not trying to match "furniture" or you have a modernistic living room, you can try rolled on Duratex type finish, similar to what DJs and PA guys use often, a glorified bed truck liner finish.
It´s thick with a vengeance and covers surface blemishes very well, of course it´s a very "industrial" finish.
Also consider some kind of vinyl surface wall paper, there are some very cool ones.
Again: the idea is to hide MDF surface, joints, etc. which will drive you crazy.
PS: build a few "test joints" out of 2 small pieces of MDF, say 2 10 by 10 or 15 by 15 cm pleces, glue/nail/screw them together as if they were one edge of your cabinet and practice on them: sanding, sealing, painting, veneering, etc.
Failures are disposable and cheap, while the real cabinet is not.
Once you are happy with one technique and finish, apply it to the real cabinet.
Last edited:
Duratex/Warnex kind of paint can give a very nice finish and it can be availlable in different colors.
Roller or sprayer gives different structure as outcome.
https://www.toutlehautparleur.com/media/catalog/product/datasheet/warnecke/WARNEX.pdf
Mixed with other finish or material it can make visual contrast.
Vinyl surface sticker can be very nice and convincing but from the one i've seen you need a very smooth surface to apply it. Melamine veneer make a good base ( the white one used for bathroom furniture).
Roller or sprayer gives different structure as outcome.
https://www.toutlehautparleur.com/media/catalog/product/datasheet/warnecke/WARNEX.pdf
Mixed with other finish or material it can make visual contrast.
Vinyl surface sticker can be very nice and convincing but from the one i've seen you need a very smooth surface to apply it. Melamine veneer make a good base ( the white one used for bathroom furniture).
If you paint, patience is a virtue. You have to let the cab dry before sanding. If using enamels, this can be 1-2 days between spray and sand. As you go, work up the grit scale, and eventually move away from power to hand sanding so you can feel the issues in the surface. Medium wet coat when you are happy, and a finish clear to follow.
I have found the best prep for MDF is West Systems clear epoxy. If you want, you can use it as finish coat too. It takes about 2 coats for coverage. Paint will not get through, and telegraphing has yet to happen.
I have found the best prep for MDF is West Systems clear epoxy. If you want, you can use it as finish coat too. It takes about 2 coats for coverage. Paint will not get through, and telegraphing has yet to happen.
after a good sealing with water based varnish or paint (any), apply color with rolled or flat brush water-based paint (any color), 2 layers at least.
Then you go for a very flat sanding (400-800), another layer, wet paper sanding 1000-1200, etc till you sand with a wet paper sanding 5-7000 if you can. When satisfying enough, then polish. You can make it shine like a mirror surface, but don't expect a glossy finish like a Chinese lacquered surface, except if you repeat that at least 10 times, usually more.
I did that with a cream white plinth for a Thorens TD125 and it was really beautiful. I make a mistake: I did it with glycero paint, very long to dry between each layer. I would do it with a water-based paint, good quality, so in the same time you can make twice or three times more layers. Of course, a plinth for a turntable is much smaller than your speakers, I concede. But with a small 4 inches roll it can be done quickly.
I wish you the best luck.
Then you go for a very flat sanding (400-800), another layer, wet paper sanding 1000-1200, etc till you sand with a wet paper sanding 5-7000 if you can. When satisfying enough, then polish. You can make it shine like a mirror surface, but don't expect a glossy finish like a Chinese lacquered surface, except if you repeat that at least 10 times, usually more.
I did that with a cream white plinth for a Thorens TD125 and it was really beautiful. I make a mistake: I did it with glycero paint, very long to dry between each layer. I would do it with a water-based paint, good quality, so in the same time you can make twice or three times more layers. Of course, a plinth for a turntable is much smaller than your speakers, I concede. But with a small 4 inches roll it can be done quickly.
I wish you the best luck.
I've had good (to me at least) results using stick on wood effect vinyl and then rollering with clear varnish.
Spray painting cabs seems to show up every little blemish. If I was going to spray I would skim the whole cab with car filler (bondo in the US?) and then sand back down.
Rob.
Spray painting cabs seems to show up every little blemish. If I was going to spray I would skim the whole cab with car filler (bondo in the US?) and then sand back down.
Rob.
Wow!
Lots of great information.
Now that my cabinets are virtually finished, and after reading all the posts, I am going to go back to looking at veneering the top and sides, but painting the front (baffle). That will allow me to round off the edges of the baffle, and also reduces the depth of the sides to be veneered to a veneer width I can buy.
I agree with most of you that veneering (or other stick-on coatings) is far easier than trying to obtain a nice paint finish.
I have used Duratex when building speakers and bins for bands, and although simple to use, it's not the finish I'm after (my wife would ban them to the garage).
I've also found that some of the stick-on vinyls tend to become detached after a few years. Not sure of the quality of product or application that I've seen do this.
Thanks again everyone.👍
Lots of great information.
Now that my cabinets are virtually finished, and after reading all the posts, I am going to go back to looking at veneering the top and sides, but painting the front (baffle). That will allow me to round off the edges of the baffle, and also reduces the depth of the sides to be veneered to a veneer width I can buy.
I agree with most of you that veneering (or other stick-on coatings) is far easier than trying to obtain a nice paint finish.
I have used Duratex when building speakers and bins for bands, and although simple to use, it's not the finish I'm after (my wife would ban them to the garage).
I've also found that some of the stick-on vinyls tend to become detached after a few years. Not sure of the quality of product or application that I've seen do this.
Thanks again everyone.👍
I can get West Systems products in Australia.
What exact product are you talking about for sealing the MDF - 105 resin with 206 hardener?
And how do you apply it?
I believe those are the right numbers, I'll reply an addendum if not.
I use a foam brush. I use the metering pumps so i get the right amounts, mix, and apply evenly. The first coat soaks in a lot, and the second is to completely seal/cover the MDF. Just do one squirt mix at a time. About the time the epoxy starts to harden is about when the brush becomes unusable or starts to break apart in bits.
I use a foam brush. I use the metering pumps so i get the right amounts, mix, and apply evenly. The first coat soaks in a lot, and the second is to completely seal/cover the MDF. Just do one squirt mix at a time. About the time the epoxy starts to harden is about when the brush becomes unusable or starts to break apart in bits.
Might look good, avoid radiuses, just cut them at edges with a sharp knife.
You will have a black, 1 or 2 mm wide (vinyl thickness) line at edges, doesn´t hurt, it adds to the surface complexity.
You will have a black, 1 or 2 mm wide (vinyl thickness) line at edges, doesn´t hurt, it adds to the surface complexity.
I used "DC Fix" vinyl on my subs but have used "Fablon" before aswell. Usually I seal the speakers with either wood glue / water mix or epoxy resin and then wrap. Then I roller with a small foam roller and clear varnish.
Buy mine on a popular auction site
I buy my resin from CFS in the UK, have always been good value.
Rob.
Last edited: