I am actually ok at the whole wood working thing, I have a good ear, and I'm great at tweaking. But... it sounds dumb...but I have not done a really good job of painting my speakers.
So those of you that have gloriously beautiful finished speakers.... how the hell do you do it?
What paint?
What prep?
What tips do you have?
Share your knowledge and make the world a more beautiful place. (Starting with my listening room.)
😀
My current Linus Array variant project
So those of you that have gloriously beautiful finished speakers.... how the hell do you do it?
What paint?
What prep?
What tips do you have?
Share your knowledge and make the world a more beautiful place. (Starting with my listening room.)
😀
My current Linus Array variant project
In brief if you are going to paint:
Sand, sand sand.....
Fill the wood and sand, fill again and sand some more.
Apply a coat of primer, let dry thoroughly, and sand it down smooth. Use a sanding block for all of your sanding to avoid digging in and creating high and low spots. If you sand down to bare wood, apply more primer and sand some more.
Apply the first coat of finish paint. Use long brush strokes and don't go back. Make especially sure you are in a dust-free room. Let dry, sand lighting, and repeat several times to build up the layers. On the last coat, use finer and finer wet/dry paper, up to 1000 grit or higher, and then use rubbing compound. This approach should yield a mirror finish.
Sand, sand sand.....
Fill the wood and sand, fill again and sand some more.
Apply a coat of primer, let dry thoroughly, and sand it down smooth. Use a sanding block for all of your sanding to avoid digging in and creating high and low spots. If you sand down to bare wood, apply more primer and sand some more.
Apply the first coat of finish paint. Use long brush strokes and don't go back. Make especially sure you are in a dust-free room. Let dry, sand lighting, and repeat several times to build up the layers. On the last coat, use finer and finer wet/dry paper, up to 1000 grit or higher, and then use rubbing compound. This approach should yield a mirror finish.
If you trying to achieve a piano like finish, it is a lot of work. The best way to do that is spraying lacquer sealers (3-6coats) and lacquer paint (about 6 coats plus). The sealer coat finish should be perfect before applying the finish lacquer. After all the paints have been applied and dried. Wait about 30 days (to totally harden) and then do a color sand and follow up with a cut polish and waxing.
Now another option is using Benjamin Moore Impervo paint. Use the recommended sealer for this. The paint should be thinned with a product called Penetrol; this makes the paint flow very nicely. The paint can be applied with a good foam roller. I would apply about 4 coats or more, with a light sanding in between. The final coat maybe all the finish you desire. But if you want to go to a close piano like finish; do a color sand , cut polish and wax (again allow the paint to harden for at least 30 days before doing this).
That's my story.
Now another option is using Benjamin Moore Impervo paint. Use the recommended sealer for this. The paint should be thinned with a product called Penetrol; this makes the paint flow very nicely. The paint can be applied with a good foam roller. I would apply about 4 coats or more, with a light sanding in between. The final coat maybe all the finish you desire. But if you want to go to a close piano like finish; do a color sand , cut polish and wax (again allow the paint to harden for at least 30 days before doing this).
That's my story.
I was thinking about doing a piano black finish. Would it be possible to do it this way:
-sand smooth to 220grit paper
-apply flat black paint (cover it well)
-apply several coats polyurethane
-sand with 500-1000-1500 then compound
This is basically what I did with my Thor TL speakers, except that I stained instead of painted, and I am happy with the smooth glossy finish that I achieved.
Would this work for a piano black finish?
--
Brian
-sand smooth to 220grit paper
-apply flat black paint (cover it well)
-apply several coats polyurethane
-sand with 500-1000-1500 then compound
This is basically what I did with my Thor TL speakers, except that I stained instead of painted, and I am happy with the smooth glossy finish that I achieved.
Would this work for a piano black finish?
--
Brian
Brian,
Check this link
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7657&highlight=paint+expert
I done the Piano Black, not very good, but ok, but I know how to do it better next time I think.
Chris
Check this link
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7657&highlight=paint+expert
I done the Piano Black, not very good, but ok, but I know how to do it better next time I think.
Chris
The best way to get the piano finish id to take the cabinets to a body shop and have them paint them. Get a friend who works at one and get him to do it.
You can prep it yourself, but leave the spraying to the pros. It is somehat of an art.
Or you can do what was previously mentioned:
Sand, Sand, Sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand................
You can prep it yourself, but leave the spraying to the pros. It is somehat of an art.
Or you can do what was previously mentioned:
Sand, Sand, Sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand................
Milzie,
You are absolutely correct, but what if you don't have a friend in this trade. But the fun part also is to DIY.
My experience tell me even the can of paint say no need to dilute the paint I would thin it out and rather paint a couple more layers.
The undiluted paint tend to trap air bubbles and wear a hat, my last layer got one of my hair on the surface and I have to start all over again, guess I was losing hair while doing it. I used 400, 600, 800 for the gloss black paint, 600, 800 for clear gloss, could not get any finer sand paper.
Have fun,
Chris
PS. I used foam roller for Black Gloss and a good brush for clear gloss.
You are absolutely correct, but what if you don't have a friend in this trade. But the fun part also is to DIY.
My experience tell me even the can of paint say no need to dilute the paint I would thin it out and rather paint a couple more layers.
The undiluted paint tend to trap air bubbles and wear a hat, my last layer got one of my hair on the surface and I have to start all over again, guess I was losing hair while doing it. I used 400, 600, 800 for the gloss black paint, 600, 800 for clear gloss, could not get any finer sand paper.
Have fun,
Chris
PS. I used foam roller for Black Gloss and a good brush for clear gloss.
I agree that the DIY is the fun part. I enjoy the designing, the construction, and the finishing. However, I hate sanding to a piano type finish. Its just too tedious and not much fun. I have a sportbike and I had the stupid idea to polish the aluminum frame. I must say that I now hate sanding and will never attempt to polish aluminum again....at least not a chunk the size of a motorcycle frame.
Same goes for speakers. If I wanted a piano finish, I would pay to have someone spray the finsih on. One or 2 coats of paint, followed by several coats of clear coat.
Like I said, GET a friend that works at a body shop. Or tell him you will build him some cabinets in exchange for him spraying yours.
Most of these guys are willing to wheel and deal.
Same goes for speakers. If I wanted a piano finish, I would pay to have someone spray the finsih on. One or 2 coats of paint, followed by several coats of clear coat.
Like I said, GET a friend that works at a body shop. Or tell him you will build him some cabinets in exchange for him spraying yours.
Most of these guys are willing to wheel and deal.
Hey, you can answer a question I,ve been wondering about for years. What does "color sand " mean?
Thanks
Thanks
When I want a no-fuss moderately-OK finish I sand with palm sander, paint with oil based high gloss black (diluted with paint thinner to motor oil consistency) and paint on 3-4 coats. Make the coats super light so you don't get drips on the edges. Sand with #00-#0000 steel wool between coats.
If you are in a dust free environment this will come out pretty nice with not much work. Oh, use a high quality natural bristled brush.
If you are in a dust free environment this will come out pretty nice with not much work. Oh, use a high quality natural bristled brush.
Or you can try what is known in the UK as Hammerite, it gives a metal hammered finish in various colours.
It is spirit based, and applies in thickish coats with a foam roller. It looks good, and has the advantage that as it is textured, two or three coats will cover most minor imperfections.
It is spirit based, and applies in thickish coats with a foam roller. It looks good, and has the advantage that as it is textured, two or three coats will cover most minor imperfections.
Variac:
The term colour sand is the process that is used when the paint application is complete and further fine tuning process is required or desired. When you have achieved a reasonalby good finish with multiple coats of finish and you desire a high sheen end result you need to go through an additional set of steps. They usually begin with a certain grit of sand paper (hopefully you can start at the highest grit possible, depending upon degree of imperfections) in order to rectify any blemishes; say at 400grit. Mostly in this arena of projects, you can stop at 1000 grit. When using these various grits of sandpaper you make use of a sanding block and a sanding lubricant (such as soap and water or mineral spirits). Of course this takes a careful sanding processes, you do not want to break through the main finish (if so, back to applying more coats of finish). Once you have achieved a flat non reflective surface you can proceed to the next steps of polishing with rubbing compouds (I find automotive very good) and then a final buffing with a good wax (again a good automotive wax will do the trick).
I hope that gives you an understandable explanation.
The term colour sand is the process that is used when the paint application is complete and further fine tuning process is required or desired. When you have achieved a reasonalby good finish with multiple coats of finish and you desire a high sheen end result you need to go through an additional set of steps. They usually begin with a certain grit of sand paper (hopefully you can start at the highest grit possible, depending upon degree of imperfections) in order to rectify any blemishes; say at 400grit. Mostly in this arena of projects, you can stop at 1000 grit. When using these various grits of sandpaper you make use of a sanding block and a sanding lubricant (such as soap and water or mineral spirits). Of course this takes a careful sanding processes, you do not want to break through the main finish (if so, back to applying more coats of finish). Once you have achieved a flat non reflective surface you can proceed to the next steps of polishing with rubbing compouds (I find automotive very good) and then a final buffing with a good wax (again a good automotive wax will do the trick).
I hope that gives you an understandable explanation.
Finishing
James-
You didn't say that you necessarily wanted a piano-like finish. I personally prefer a satin sort of finish over the high-gloss stuff, whether it is paint or a clear finish over a nicely grained wood. High gloss, especially in black, will show all imperfections, and especially anywhere where the surface isn't fair but is wavy, whether due to the substrate or the finish itself. Reminds me of inexpensive faux-Chinese laquered furniture.
I haven't built speakers, but I've made a few things that I veneered, and finished them succesfully this way:
I use some kind of satin-finish varnish, usually a polyurethane, doing about 4-6 coats and keeping them thin, usually thinning the stuff before I put it on, so it goes on flatter (no high spots due to puddling of the finish). Sand between them using something like 220 to keep it really flat. Don't be afraid to sand through the first one or two coats to get rid of high spots, and if it's too much work with 220, use 120 or 150 for the first one or two. Sand the final one with 600, or lightly with some really fine steel wool, then wax it. Looks very nice.
With paint, you can do something similar. My speaker stands have 3 legs- square section pieces of wood about 10 inches high- that project up from a base that sits on the floor. Those I finished in a satin black that I did by filling all imperfections, painting with flat black, sanding, painting again... until you couldn't tell that they were wood. Spray paint helps. Then just used very fine steel wool to give them a burnished satin look. That's it.
James-
You didn't say that you necessarily wanted a piano-like finish. I personally prefer a satin sort of finish over the high-gloss stuff, whether it is paint or a clear finish over a nicely grained wood. High gloss, especially in black, will show all imperfections, and especially anywhere where the surface isn't fair but is wavy, whether due to the substrate or the finish itself. Reminds me of inexpensive faux-Chinese laquered furniture.
I haven't built speakers, but I've made a few things that I veneered, and finished them succesfully this way:
I use some kind of satin-finish varnish, usually a polyurethane, doing about 4-6 coats and keeping them thin, usually thinning the stuff before I put it on, so it goes on flatter (no high spots due to puddling of the finish). Sand between them using something like 220 to keep it really flat. Don't be afraid to sand through the first one or two coats to get rid of high spots, and if it's too much work with 220, use 120 or 150 for the first one or two. Sand the final one with 600, or lightly with some really fine steel wool, then wax it. Looks very nice.
With paint, you can do something similar. My speaker stands have 3 legs- square section pieces of wood about 10 inches high- that project up from a base that sits on the floor. Those I finished in a satin black that I did by filling all imperfections, painting with flat black, sanding, painting again... until you couldn't tell that they were wood. Spray paint helps. Then just used very fine steel wool to give them a burnished satin look. That's it.
Oh yes, piano black finish is very very time consumming and tedious. I've done two face plates for my JLH amp, and I have:
2 layers of grey primer
6 layers of gloss black
3 layers of high gloss clear
One layer a day! and lots of patient.
Chris
2 layers of grey primer
6 layers of gloss black
3 layers of high gloss clear
One layer a day! and lots of patient.
Chris
I think I will go with satin black
Is there a good sealer that you would recommend?
What would be a good paint that you would recommend for satin black?
I love both wood grain and piano finish, but for my dark theater, satin black would really be what I need to to fit the requirement of the front projector. I like to have as little visible as possible when the lights are down and the movie is playing. But I still want it to look good.
Thanks for all the input so far.
James
Is there a good sealer that you would recommend?
What would be a good paint that you would recommend for satin black?
I love both wood grain and piano finish, but for my dark theater, satin black would really be what I need to to fit the requirement of the front projector. I like to have as little visible as possible when the lights are down and the movie is playing. But I still want it to look good.
Thanks for all the input so far.
James
Exactly the same as Chris Ma's method, using car paints, and finish the speakers, (after the paint has been left 72 hours to cure), with a rub down with fine grade cabinet wire wool and a bit of wax.
Or you could veneer, stain black, and finish with an oil, such as Danish oil. This would be much quicker than painting😉
paint loudspeakers
Very good results i take by use color for cars (metallic).
i use blue for my loudspeakers but black must be perfect.
Very good results i take by use color for cars (metallic).
i use blue for my loudspeakers but black must be perfect.
Almost time to paint
Gotta bondo first.
I am still sorting through the different suggestions. A lot of different approaches.
Gotta bondo first.
I am still sorting through the different suggestions. A lot of different approaches.
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