Hi.
I have a pair of B&W DM602s amplified with Marantz PM6006.
My interest is to add two subwoofer speakers, one for each stereo channel.
The idea came to me when I saw a design in which the stands of the speakers were made with the boxes of the subwoofers.
It was called RS BASS STANDS.
Dayton Audio RS 225-8 speakers were used in a 1.3 cubic foot cabinet.
The link is this:
http://projectgallery.parts-express....rs-bass-stand/
My question is this:
Can I connect an 80hz passive low pass filter between the amplifier and subwoofer and in turn connect an 80hz passive high pass filter between the same amplifier and the B&W dm602 boxes ?.
Would it be correct ?. Would the impedance of the set be affected?
Filters are these
Parts Express 80 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm Crossover
80 Hz High Pass 8 Ohm Crossover.
Thank you and I await your opinions.
Jose.
I have a pair of B&W DM602s amplified with Marantz PM6006.
My interest is to add two subwoofer speakers, one for each stereo channel.
The idea came to me when I saw a design in which the stands of the speakers were made with the boxes of the subwoofers.
It was called RS BASS STANDS.
Dayton Audio RS 225-8 speakers were used in a 1.3 cubic foot cabinet.
The link is this:
http://projectgallery.parts-express....rs-bass-stand/
My question is this:
Can I connect an 80hz passive low pass filter between the amplifier and subwoofer and in turn connect an 80hz passive high pass filter between the same amplifier and the B&W dm602 boxes ?.
Would it be correct ?. Would the impedance of the set be affected?
Filters are these
Parts Express 80 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm Crossover
80 Hz High Pass 8 Ohm Crossover.
Thank you and I await your opinions.
Jose.
Passive crossover that low can cause at least as much problems as it solve. Of course they can filter out something but the question is "what" and "how".
If you ask me, i wouldn't waste my money on passive filters below 200-250Hz.
Get a DSP for the B&W-s and a powered sub with DSP, imo.
If you ask me, i wouldn't waste my money on passive filters below 200-250Hz.
Get a DSP for the B&W-s and a powered sub with DSP, imo.
Cheapest solution would be to buy a used av receiver to give you the bass management you need. (and stuff the b&w's ports with socks to get a 2nd order roll off)
Otherwise use a plate amp with high level inputs and it's own crossover to try and blend in the subs to the mains.
If you go for dsp solutions you'd need a pre amp / power amp set up for the dsp to sit between.
Rob.
Otherwise use a plate amp with high level inputs and it's own crossover to try and blend in the subs to the mains.
If you go for dsp solutions you'd need a pre amp / power amp set up for the dsp to sit between.
Rob.
Yeah for a DSP solution, pre amp/power amp or an integrated amp with pre out and main in is required.
I have a Rotel RA 970 BX amplifier.
You could use it to drive subwoofers with an active low pass filter.
But the Marantz amplifier does not have preamplifier output.
I would have to get a signal from the N speaker output
Marantz.
How do I adapt the high output of the Marantz to be handled by an active Paro and in turn by the Rotel amplifier?
You could use it to drive subwoofers with an active low pass filter.
But the Marantz amplifier does not have preamplifier output.
I would have to get a signal from the N speaker output
Marantz.
How do I adapt the high output of the Marantz to be handled by an active Paro and in turn by the Rotel amplifier?
Yes, you can. If the impedance won't drop too low, you can omit the High pass filter to make a 2.5 way system. The low pass filter can simply be a low DC resistance inductor whose value is calculated for the impedance of your subwoofers at 80 HZ. It is likely to be a large value, & thus relatively expensive.
I use a ferrite core Jensen inductor for just this purpose.
I use a ferrite core Jensen inductor for just this purpose.
another thought - no need to use 80Hz, if you use the baffle step frequency (115/baffle width in meters), you will deal with baffle step i.e. more accurate sound, the inductor will be smaller, thus cheaper, and you will avoid the problem area in the impedance curve of most drivers where the impedance rises around the resonant frequency....
Well. yes I understood well.
Taking into account that my idea is to make some shelves for the B&W DM602, which are 23.5 cm wide.
The box for this subwoofer would also be 23.5 cm wide (50 cm high and 40 cm deep) outside measurements.
then the low pass would cut in 489 hz.
But would you have to make a high pass on the same frequency for the B&W DM602 ?.
Taking into account that my idea is to make some shelves for the B&W DM602, which are 23.5 cm wide.
The box for this subwoofer would also be 23.5 cm wide (50 cm high and 40 cm deep) outside measurements.
then the low pass would cut in 489 hz.
But would you have to make a high pass on the same frequency for the B&W DM602 ?.
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only if you want to cut the low end from the B&Ws. A 2.5 way system just adds bass to the existing system. To make it a full 3 way, you could simply put a capacitor in series with the B&Ws calculated for the impedance at the crossover frequency, cheap to try.
Use a tape output. It is line level and not affected by balance, tone, volume controls, etc.
You can buy a decent quality signal amplifier if needed between line out to line in. I had to do this once for a sub woofer plate amplifier. It needed an additional 3 to 6 dB of (increased) input signal level because of a mis-match.