2 trafo's , 2 heatsinks , 2 pair supply caps (in pix).
Cheap corporation would not do this if it was not (dual mono).
Google is your friend. Electrotanya.com has the full free schematic.
OS
Cheap corporation would not do this if it was not (dual mono).
Google is your friend. Electrotanya.com has the full free schematic.
OS
ok! thanx! But further I wonder since today I have to make my decision over ta-f444ES from SONY or the Pioneer A-77X instead! Is the SONY aswell Dual Mono?
Yes ,the sony is ... (below).
But , one trafo/ dual electrical secondary.
While this is theoretically "true" dual mono , A real heavy load on a channel COULD
affect the common magnetic field of the "dual" trafo.
PS - SONY TA F444ES ESII 412 Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics
There is schema for that ... 30 seconds to do all of this (including link).
OS
But , one trafo/ dual electrical secondary.
While this is theoretically "true" dual mono , A real heavy load on a channel COULD
affect the common magnetic field of the "dual" trafo.
PS - SONY TA F444ES ESII 412 Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics
There is schema for that ... 30 seconds to do all of this (including link).
OS
Attachments
I really like sound of the sony, with those Sankens! I am in the 30w power range! So if no critical build difference to improvement is made from one to another I will go with the SONY!
That's strange , I've had one audiophile say Sanken sounded bad. I like them ,
they last for 30 years - and sound the same as ON/fairchild/toshiba.
It's the circuit that determines "character".
Your old sony (ta-444) is when things were "good" (older /better).
New sony's are junk.
OS
they last for 30 years - and sound the same as ON/fairchild/toshiba.
It's the circuit that determines "character".
Your old sony (ta-444) is when things were "good" (older /better).
New sony's are junk.
OS
Actually the Pioneer has 3 trafos and seems to inherited something from the legends A-70 and A-80 cousins... It's not an "easy" unity to service though.
See also: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/259671-pioneer-77x-channel-balance.html

See also: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/259671-pioneer-77x-channel-balance.html
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This Pioneer is a pure beautty but since I have no grounds to leave this other in the favor of the other one I mean SONY ES over Pioneer I will stick with this one! Thank you guys!
Well you guys I've got the A 77X and striped it! The lights were not working on it and now after putting a 1,8kohm res at 1/2w all the lights are a go on it but one, the bulb indicator for line straight! When pressed all the lights work whan depressed no lights work! When I put a lamp on + and - on the location of this bulb the bulb lights very weakly plus all the light on the device work again no mather that the line straight is pressed or not! What do I do?
Hard to say what is going on there. Are these bulbs or LED's ? Is the bulb the correct type (current and resistance)... I'm thinking it might be pulling the voltage down and upsetting things.
It would probably help if you posted the relevant part of the circuit showing this and the resistor you replaced.
It would probably help if you posted the relevant part of the circuit showing this and the resistor you replaced.
i have the same issue, all red led not working, and straight line bulb allso no lit.
straigjht line has a bulb and input selection has LED.
mine amps CD input not working, others are ok.
Please help me to solve this puzzle 🙂
straigjht line has a bulb and input selection has LED.
mine amps CD input not working, others are ok.
Please help me to solve this puzzle 🙂
Of course the LEDs will shut off when you press line straight. Line straight bypasses all the features that the LEDs can indicate as "on". Since everything gets shut off during line straight - the LEDs turn off too.
That's strange , I've had one audiophile say Sanken sounded bad. I like them ,
they last for 30 years - and sound the same as ON/fairchild/toshiba.
It's the circuit that determines "character".
Your old sony (ta-444) is when things were "good" (older /better).
New sony's are junk.
OS
My Nakamichi PA-5 had Sanken parts but I replaced them when I could not find matching output transistors when one channel went bad. I tend to agree that the circuit is most important, not the exotic nature of the parts. I have not heard a huge difference between active components (aside from the rare Op Amp in several phono preamps) but changes in the circuit? Absolutely. I have heard differences in passive components, though again, not dramatic.
Darren
well the last post i dont get it, is it spam ?
Straight button isnt working to , but i have seen pics on net where all lights are lit same time.
Straight button isnt working to , but i have seen pics on net where all lights are lit same time.
Of course the LEDs will shut off when you press line straight. Line straight bypasses all the features that the LEDs can indicate as "on". Since everything gets shut off during line straight - the LEDs turn off too.
Not necessarily. You can still diddle with everything on this amp, turn all the lights on with the line straight switch engaged. All it does is bypass the tone controls.
I found the worst problem in this amp to be dirt. SO MANY contacts to clean, mine went from wacky and intermittent to fully functional after a good deep cleaning of all switches, relays, etc. Those "switch strips" on the front (the ones that act like radio buttons on computers if you're a programmer you'll know what I mean, pressing one disengages any other in the strip) are the worst on this piece. I had to physically alter (read: bend out with pliers) some contact points before their functionality was restored.
Of course the LEDs will shut off when you press line straight. Line straight bypasses all the features that the LEDs can indicate as "on". Since everything gets shut off during line straight - the LEDs turn off too.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/259671-pioneer-77x-channel-balance-4.html#post4009079
In this particular case, the switch is only a jumper. It completes a feedback loop the tone controls are otherwise included in. If throwing this switch is killing all the LEDs it sounds like the amp is going into protection. The voltage amp (upside down board between heatsinks) will be the source of most of the problems in the analogue stage of this amp.
I discovered what was not liting those RED leds.
Green led where all lighten but red ones where not.
The power button bulb was broken and seems it acts like some fuse.
Case solved 🙂
Green led where all lighten but red ones where not.
The power button bulb was broken and seems it acts like some fuse.
Case solved 🙂
Well you guys normaly all lights must work at all time all litten at the same time of functioning! This one was missing a bulb at the power luminous indicator, when I put a led in with a res 1,8kohm I think at 1/2w all lights were a go but the following step: Line Straight pressed no more lights on it! Anyway I did not look anymore further into it cause I did not like the bass and trebble only sustained tones of this amplifier, so I had to let it go! Thought I should give the story of this amplifier so that I can close this thread uppon my problem! Thank you all!
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