Greetings!
After searching for quite some time, I have finally tracked down a service manual for my Proton 1100 preamp.
I love this preamp and now I feel confident to get into refurbishing it.
I downloaded it from here, for about $16. It has schematics, board layouts and parts lists. I am happy with the quality.
Hope this information might be useful to someone!
Rgds,
blakkshepeaudio
https://secureiti.com/servicemanuals/ServiceManual/PROTON/1100 PREAMPLIFIER/609958/detail.aspx
After searching for quite some time, I have finally tracked down a service manual for my Proton 1100 preamp.
I love this preamp and now I feel confident to get into refurbishing it.
I downloaded it from here, for about $16. It has schematics, board layouts and parts lists. I am happy with the quality.
Hope this information might be useful to someone!
Rgds,
blakkshepeaudio
https://secureiti.com/servicemanuals/ServiceManual/PROTON/1100 PREAMPLIFIER/609958/detail.aspx
I have just rediscovered my PDF download of the Proton 1100 manual.
Given that it seems to be completely unavailable by any other means, and given that Proton no longer exists to support this product, I am happy to send a copy to those in need.
PM me with a real email address and I will send it upon request.
These units are really nice and they deserve to kept in service as long as possible.
blakkshepeaudio
Given that it seems to be completely unavailable by any other means, and given that Proton no longer exists to support this product, I am happy to send a copy to those in need.
PM me with a real email address and I will send it upon request.
These units are really nice and they deserve to kept in service as long as possible.
blakkshepeaudio
Thanks......I have not got a copy from you as yet unless it's in my email late last night??
I found a copy(paper) online and purchased it some time ago. Almost finished the repair.
Simon.
I found a copy(paper) online and purchased it some time ago. Almost finished the repair.
Simon.
Ap 1000 Pre amp
Hi
Forgive my cheek but I am trying to fix a Proton Ap 1000 pre amp and wondered if you have a copy of the service manual or schematic?
Regards.
T.C.
Hi
Forgive my cheek but I am trying to fix a Proton Ap 1000 pre amp and wondered if you have a copy of the service manual or schematic?
Regards.
T.C.
proton 1100 preamp
Dear Sir
would you consider sharing the service manual of Proton 1100
I am in Bangalore India
I have service manual of Power Amp Yamaha M80 and Onkyo M5030
If you need I can share this
I have Proton 1000 model and thinking to purchase 1100
Robert Bose
Dear Sir
would you consider sharing the service manual of Proton 1100
I am in Bangalore India
I have service manual of Power Amp Yamaha M80 and Onkyo M5030
If you need I can share this
I have Proton 1000 model and thinking to purchase 1100
Robert Bose
Dear Robert
Do not expose your e-mail address in public. Use the Private Message system (PM).
Within half an hour you can edit your post and delete your e-mail address
George
Do not expose your e-mail address in public. Use the Private Message system (PM).
Within half an hour you can edit your post and delete your e-mail address
George
Good morning i wish you a nice day.
i got the proton 1100 and i want to bring it back to life, could you please send me the service manual
email adresse:methexi7@hotmail.com
thank you very much
i got the proton 1100 and i want to bring it back to life, could you please send me the service manual
email adresse:methexi7@hotmail.com
thank you very much
To all those who have recently requested this manual, I have been unable until today to log in to DIYAudio. I have sent it by email to those who have provided me with their email address. If you have requested it but not received it please PM and include your email address.
BTW I have sent this manual out to nearly 60 people so far, so there are still a few in action out there !
BTW I have sent this manual out to nearly 60 people so far, so there are still a few in action out there !
Repaired a few too many of these many years ago 🙂 Is my memory right that transistors are very hot in these and because of this many electrolytic caps are shot? Voltage ratings of electrolytic caps are chosen too narrow. Also loose PCB tracks. Extremely high possible output voltage too.
Sounds very very good as often with high octane stuff.
Sounds very very good as often with high octane stuff.
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jean-paul, this is a preamp - perhaps you have a Proton amp in mind?
I wanted to give my preamp a bill of health, and put it in to regular use, but had put that activity on ice for the last decade without a good schematic to ease the process of inspection and performance testing.
I wanted to give my preamp a bill of health, and put it in to regular use, but had put that activity on ice for the last decade without a good schematic to ease the process of inspection and performance testing.
There were a few Proton preamp types so please consider that I only rely on my memory. If I am mixing up the 1000 and the 1100 then I am sorry for stirring up stuff. So please check if the info is applicable!
Yes it is a preamp but if my memory serves me right the stated things are true. Bad part choice and not enough consideration regarding heat development. I recall it having higher possible output voltage than my then used power amplifier 😀 You have the manual so you can check as human memory is a dangerous thing but AFAIK it has uncommonly high symmetric PSU lines like +/- 24 or even +/- 30V. Often the transistors were shot too. Thin ice but info from other devices: if possible choose highest taps of the primary side of the power transformer. 240V in 230V areas and the like.
Never had a schematic of these but managed to get them back to life again but always with that bad feeling it had nearly unrepairable PCB damage. I just mention this as general info. Choose new electrolytic caps way higher rated than Proton did (ie 50V types where 35V types are used, 100V types where 63V types are used etc.) and make sure to use 105 degrees types like Panasonic FC/FM. There is no doubt whatsoever in this specific device that most electrolytic caps are simply dry/defective, it is not the standard discussion that it is useless to replace them and such blah blah. In the signal path the small values can be Wima MKS2 film caps in 5 mm pitch and the larger ones (output side of stages) can be MUSE bipolar electrolytic caps. It is advisable to buy thermal glue and glue heatsinks to power stages (yes!) in this preamp.
Treat the PCB material like very sensitive and desolder as fast as possible and make right choices for new parts at once. There is not much chance to solder a second time.
Yes it is a preamp but if my memory serves me right the stated things are true. Bad part choice and not enough consideration regarding heat development. I recall it having higher possible output voltage than my then used power amplifier 😀 You have the manual so you can check as human memory is a dangerous thing but AFAIK it has uncommonly high symmetric PSU lines like +/- 24 or even +/- 30V. Often the transistors were shot too. Thin ice but info from other devices: if possible choose highest taps of the primary side of the power transformer. 240V in 230V areas and the like.
Never had a schematic of these but managed to get them back to life again but always with that bad feeling it had nearly unrepairable PCB damage. I just mention this as general info. Choose new electrolytic caps way higher rated than Proton did (ie 50V types where 35V types are used, 100V types where 63V types are used etc.) and make sure to use 105 degrees types like Panasonic FC/FM. There is no doubt whatsoever in this specific device that most electrolytic caps are simply dry/defective, it is not the standard discussion that it is useless to replace them and such blah blah. In the signal path the small values can be Wima MKS2 film caps in 5 mm pitch and the larger ones (output side of stages) can be MUSE bipolar electrolytic caps. It is advisable to buy thermal glue and glue heatsinks to power stages (yes!) in this preamp.
Treat the PCB material like very sensitive and desolder as fast as possible and make right choices for new parts at once. There is not much chance to solder a second time.
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Thanks for the recollections. I will take a bit more care in assessing the existing performance for part voltage rating and thermal management. I start with a variac run anyway to confirm voltage levels are fine before approaching levels that could cause collateral damage if a part had degraded or failed. Once I know devices and parts are generally operating fine then I do a recap, just in case I need to order in parts first.
Yes the 'high level' outputs run off a regulated +/-30V rail.
I had in mind setting up the spectrum analyser to look at any hum leakage, and then swap out the bridge rectifier and parallel caps and use just a UF4007 bridge and see if there is any difference, although that may be difficult to discern as I likely have to suppress any bench setup noise and parasitic mains coupling to the noise floor (which will force me to use a laptop).
Also waiting to get a cap ESR measurement adaptor ready, as a way to gauge degradation of the main supply caps (even though I would replace them typically.
Yes the 'high level' outputs run off a regulated +/-30V rail.
I had in mind setting up the spectrum analyser to look at any hum leakage, and then swap out the bridge rectifier and parallel caps and use just a UF4007 bridge and see if there is any difference, although that may be difficult to discern as I likely have to suppress any bench setup noise and parasitic mains coupling to the noise floor (which will force me to use a laptop).
Also waiting to get a cap ESR measurement adaptor ready, as a way to gauge degradation of the main supply caps (even though I would replace them typically.
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