Yes. Also be sure not to overdrive the LED... it probably has a series resistor as it is specified for 12 volts but I would try it carefully first with an external resistor and supply and see how bright it looks.
It does need DC. A larger series resistor would let it work on higher DC voltages.
I would not use it.
I had the following horror story.
A Led in a ON/OFF mains switch.
One that had a short inside, killed a lot of stuff because mains 240V AC was sent to the +15V -15V power supply, when first powered on.
So, for me, never again.
I hate 240 AC that close to 12V DC.
I had the following horror story.
A Led in a ON/OFF mains switch.
One that had a short inside, killed a lot of stuff because mains 240V AC was sent to the +15V -15V power supply, when first powered on.
So, for me, never again.
I hate 240 AC that close to 12V DC.
I have to agree, this is not such a great idea, despite the ratings being sufficient.
The issue is not "stupid question" but "stupid part".
The pins for the 12 V and the 240 look identical, so easy to accidentally connect 240 V to your 12 V circuit, or wire the 240 V across the LED.
Scary even if it doesn't fail.
Best wishes
David
Agree and add: given that mains switches nowadays require insulating baffles to meet creep distance requirements (depending on different Country safety rules)
I find that design putting live mains voltage in **close** proximity of "user area" wiring such as a 12V indicator ludicrous and an accident waiting to happen.
I find that design putting live mains voltage in **close** proximity of "user area" wiring such as a 12V indicator ludicrous and an accident waiting to happen.
Glad to hear your opinions. It's quite hard to find round mounting power switch for 10mm faceplate. This one fits quite well. I also like the metal body so that it attaches properly, unlike some plastic alternatives.
I'll probably avoid using 12VDC pins (+/-) indicators and think about separate led light indicator. Any LED options connecting directly from 230VAC mains?
I'll probably avoid using 12VDC pins (+/-) indicators and think about separate led light indicator. Any LED options connecting directly from 230VAC mains?
Just because the contact rating is 230A AC doesn't mean it it is endorsed to carry mains.The suitability of any component needs to be taken in context.
I'm currently building with a couple of switches like this, they have 12V across the contacts.
The switches I have are just momentary (not latching).
I'm currently building with a couple of switches like this, they have 12V across the contacts.
The switches I have are just momentary (not latching).
I like Apem mains led- they have many design and size options.some my amp photo attched.
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The spec says 3A/250VAC on/off switch with 12VDC led light. How else do you recognize that it is endorsed to carry mains?
Good question.
Because it doesn't comply with regulations such as JMFahey alludes to, and approved codes of practise. For example, within equipment it's recommended (maybe law in some countries) to switch both the live and neutral - not just one pole. Another point is that we don't know how good the internal switch construction is. Could it be possible for the insulation between the switch to breakdown to the casing, thus rendering the equipment case live?
Switches and mains parts usually have standards certification markings on them. Pull any mains plug out of the wall and you'll see markings.
That doesn't mean that a component without markings is unsafe. An uncertified component may be safe in a given situation. It's knowing and understanding that. If you're not clear of that, it's best to use a certified component.
Most of us do not have access to the documentation that sets out the rules and recommendations that apply. That's why it's a great idea for DIYers to run ideas past others who may be qualified to spot pitfalls.
Such option is dropping 230VAC to diode forward voltage ( few volts depending of color ). This is a tremendous power waste in a dropping resistor that will need to dissipate quite a large power.
Say you need 10 mA, depending of how much light you want.
Once rectified the 230V AC is 230 x 1.424 x ( 2 / 3.1416 ) Vdc. That is 207 Vdc
You need a 20K, 2 Watt resistor. That is quite a lot of heat.
I would use DC from the power supply ( 15V, 5V, whatever available ) to light this ( well separated from mains ) diode.
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I tend to use these ones. They look fantastic on an aluminium (aluminum) faceplate and can be found in different sizes. Not illuminated, I know, but I feel the same about having low voltage so close to mains.
I haven't put AC through one yet though, but the ones I got are nice quality.
I usually switch AC with an integrated IEC inlet (fused and switched) then switch secondary voltage as required (if single ended).
I haven't put AC through one yet though, but the ones I got are nice quality.
I usually switch AC with an integrated IEC inlet (fused and switched) then switch secondary voltage as required (if single ended).
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I usually use a 12V supply for the led and switch, and use it to toggle a relay for the mains.
Something like one of these: 5V 1A AC-DC Power Supply Converter Step Down Module *** | eBay
Then you can use one of these: Relay Module 1 Channel 12V Latching With Touch Bistable Switch MCU Control Tool | eBay and have a single button ON-OFF 🙂
Something like one of these: 5V 1A AC-DC Power Supply Converter Step Down Module *** | eBay
Then you can use one of these: Relay Module 1 Channel 12V Latching With Touch Bistable Switch MCU Control Tool | eBay and have a single button ON-OFF 🙂
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