This may or may not be a naive question but here it goes. Hopefully, this is the right subforum to post this to...
I'm interested in building three new bass cabs using three of these: B&C 18DS115 18" Professional Neodymium Subwoofer 8 Ohm
I can only afford three right now but will eventually upgrade to 4.
I have a Behringer nx6000; it has two channels and is capable of handling both 4 and 8 ohm loads.
Will I run into any phase issues by driving two of the cabs wired in parallel for a 4 ohm load, and using the second channel for running the third cab independently as an 8 ohm load? Will phase characteristics stay the same for each channel of an amp when those channels are driving different loads?
I'm interested in building three new bass cabs using three of these: B&C 18DS115 18" Professional Neodymium Subwoofer 8 Ohm
I can only afford three right now but will eventually upgrade to 4.
I have a Behringer nx6000; it has two channels and is capable of handling both 4 and 8 ohm loads.
Will I run into any phase issues by driving two of the cabs wired in parallel for a 4 ohm load, and using the second channel for running the third cab independently as an 8 ohm load? Will phase characteristics stay the same for each channel of an amp when those channels are driving different loads?
This will work fine with no phase shift issues the amplifier is a voltage source. The only differences will be if the amp is driven into clip whereupon the 4 ohm loaded output will clip slightly earlier then the 8.
That amp is underpowered for even one of those subs. You should have bought the Dayton Ultimax subs. But even then, you still need an NX6000 for each sub.
With 1500W per speaker available you should be able to hit 130dB per cabinet, so I would think you have enough power. The Daytons will go much lower, but nowhere near as loud, only getting to 115dB, so it really depends on what you want out of your system. These are short term and theoretical figures as power compression will come in as the voice coil warms up
Brian
Brian
Where on earth are you getting the idea that 1,000w through a very efficient 18” subwoofer is only gonna give you 115dB? You must be out of your mind. Most high power subwoofers don’t even have an efficiency of 90dB and will more than exceed 115dB at 1,000w driven. Give both of these subs 1,000w and I bet they’re within 5dB of each other. And of course the Dayton’s go lower because that’s the whole point of massively powerful 18’s, I don’t even see the point of tuning an 18 to 45Hz, that makes no sense whatsoever.
Dayton Audio - UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Coil
88.6 dB @ 2.83V/1m @ 4 ohm = 85.6dB @ 1W
Unless I picked the wrong one from the Dayton web site
Brian
88.6 dB @ 2.83V/1m @ 4 ohm = 85.6dB @ 1W
Unless I picked the wrong one from the Dayton web site
Brian
I intend to upgrade the amplifier in the near future.
Since we're on the subject, what would you recommend as a first "big boy" amp?
Since we're on the subject, what would you recommend as a first "big boy" amp?
NX6000 is actually pretty powerful and will do ~2kW per channel into 4 ohms. I found when driven into clip on sine waves it could make some strange noises (kind of spluttering noise - presumably power supply collapsing) . I would set its limiters a bit below its maximum output. It gets quite expensive to get more power. Whats the intended usage of the subs? I couldn't imagine running out of power on an inuke and 3*18DS115 at home.
I'm 100% a hobbyist, not a pro. With that said I'm super appreciative of all of you industry professionals who bother with responding to queries from people like me.
I play electronic music on the patio and in the woods with people from my crew. Some of it has wild bass drops that have tickled the upper limits of my generator, but most of it is house.
I currently have two 15" reflex cabs I built as subs and they comfortably blow the door off of any bbq or house party. Outside, they're fine. They've successfully played to 60-70 people on the beach.
I know of one Jamaican music crew that wants to eventually do nights with the rig since the whole thing is stained wood. I have no idea what event size they have in mind. There's a bar one city over I'd like to develop a good working relationship with after vaccinations allow for venues to reopen and I don't think it would be the worst thing in the world to have a bass section that can go louder and with a lower F3. Some of my own crew's music has a demand for reproducing 30hz content, albeit not a ton of it.
When people mention "iNuke" do they typically mean the NU12000?
I play electronic music on the patio and in the woods with people from my crew. Some of it has wild bass drops that have tickled the upper limits of my generator, but most of it is house.
I currently have two 15" reflex cabs I built as subs and they comfortably blow the door off of any bbq or house party. Outside, they're fine. They've successfully played to 60-70 people on the beach.
I know of one Jamaican music crew that wants to eventually do nights with the rig since the whole thing is stained wood. I have no idea what event size they have in mind. There's a bar one city over I'd like to develop a good working relationship with after vaccinations allow for venues to reopen and I don't think it would be the worst thing in the world to have a bass section that can go louder and with a lower F3. Some of my own crew's music has a demand for reproducing 30hz content, albeit not a ton of it.
When people mention "iNuke" do they typically mean the NU12000?
Just remember that if you double the power, you will get an extra 3dB if you are lucky. When you are talking hundreds of watts into one driver it will get warm, its resistance will increase and the power will go down, so you might only get one or two dB (1dB is a just noticeable increase). An extra sub will be noticeable, but an extra kW probably won’t
Brian
Brian
Cool I'm pretty much the same in that I'm not pro and just occasionally put on parties until they where banned in the UK indefinitely.
The NU12000 is pretty rare (at least in the UK) and as far as I know is a 2ohm capable version of the NU6000 (has no more voltage swing capability).
30Hz capability is for me very important, I initially targeted 20Hz but the power demands and the weight/bulk/cost of the subs required where beyond my means so I rebuilt my subs as more efficient 30Hz subs. I find outdoors (as you would expect) is far more demanding for subbass than indoors. Its always better to add more subs rather than amplifier if you have the choice as you can exploit mutual coupling if they are co-located to increase the efficiency of the subs. EG:
1 sub = 0dB
2 sub = +6dB (+3dB for double the power input and +3dB for increased efficiency)
4 sub = +12dB
where as if you just put 4* the power into 1 sub (if it could even take it) you would only be up +6dB.
In terms of amps if your running from a generator you will want an amp with PFC that will draw a nice sinusoidal current from the generator unlike the Inukes which draw high current spikes. Doing so will reduce the overrating required of the generator. Powersoft X4L would be a good choice but its very expensive, I'm not really aware of any high power amps with PFC that are budget!*
*one idea would be to look at the higher powered lab Gruppen installation amplifiers as they are frequently stripped out of installations and just require the building of custom connector adapters to work in a normal PA situation:
Lab Gruppen | Catalog | Product Categories
The NU12000 is pretty rare (at least in the UK) and as far as I know is a 2ohm capable version of the NU6000 (has no more voltage swing capability).
30Hz capability is for me very important, I initially targeted 20Hz but the power demands and the weight/bulk/cost of the subs required where beyond my means so I rebuilt my subs as more efficient 30Hz subs. I find outdoors (as you would expect) is far more demanding for subbass than indoors. Its always better to add more subs rather than amplifier if you have the choice as you can exploit mutual coupling if they are co-located to increase the efficiency of the subs. EG:
1 sub = 0dB
2 sub = +6dB (+3dB for double the power input and +3dB for increased efficiency)
4 sub = +12dB
where as if you just put 4* the power into 1 sub (if it could even take it) you would only be up +6dB.
In terms of amps if your running from a generator you will want an amp with PFC that will draw a nice sinusoidal current from the generator unlike the Inukes which draw high current spikes. Doing so will reduce the overrating required of the generator. Powersoft X4L would be a good choice but its very expensive, I'm not really aware of any high power amps with PFC that are budget!*
*one idea would be to look at the higher powered lab Gruppen installation amplifiers as they are frequently stripped out of installations and just require the building of custom connector adapters to work in a normal PA situation:
Lab Gruppen | Catalog | Product Categories
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