When I look at many wiring diagrams (like this one: http://www.amb.org/audio/beta22/audio4.png), I see wires which need to be connected to multiple points. This suggests that the wire will require multiple three-way splices in order to connect to all the right places. How is this done? I found 3-way heatshrink adapters (like this one: 3 Way Wire Splice Butt Connector w Adhesive Heat Shrink 12-10 AWG Genuinedealz.com), but that doesn't seem like an elegant solution. What is the correct approach here?
For hard wiring, just have extra pads on the pcb for the jumpers. If you are using connectors, have the extra connections in the sending plug,
and separate plugs on the other end for each output.
Forget that wire splice which is meant for another very different use.
When you have multiple wires joining, it's usually (not always) shown by a dot in the drawing, as in your example, and it usually means a soldered connection.
Now basically all points of a same conductor are at the same potential, so within reason you can choose where to apply said splicing/soldering for practical mounting convenience.
Some examples in your wiring diagram:
1) on the speaker out connectors shown on the right, for convenience the Zobel network parts are shown soldered straight to the wires, at some distance from the connectors, say 1 cm or 1/2" , and "floating" which of course can be done but is terrible, wire flexing will eventually tear those parts legs.
Correct way is to solder the Zobel parts (they "should" show a dot between them meaning they are soldered 🙄 ) to the connector legs, and solder the wires there too.
So both wires and parts are soldered to a rigid point (the connector leg/terminal).
2) same on the XLR (3 leg) input or output connectors, since they share the same ground wire, you solder it to the ground terminal on one, then solder another wire from there to the ground leg on the other.
3) what rayma says, is than when you design a PCB which connects same voltage to different points, such as a power supply feeding other PCBs, it's good to provide several "holes" connected so each one receives its own wire.
4) sometimes you have long wires whuch have to be joined "midway", connectors or legs are far away; in that case you remove insulation in one, wrap the end of another around the now visible copper, and solder them together; just twisted connections are unreliable; then you insulate that exposed metal with heat shrink or tape.
Just as a side note, here's what famed Western Union, which provided telegraph services since the "cowboy times" used to provide reliable twisted , unsoldered wire splices:
Of course, as soon as soldering was available, they used:
When you have multiple wires joining, it's usually (not always) shown by a dot in the drawing, as in your example, and it usually means a soldered connection.
Now basically all points of a same conductor are at the same potential, so within reason you can choose where to apply said splicing/soldering for practical mounting convenience.
Some examples in your wiring diagram:
1) on the speaker out connectors shown on the right, for convenience the Zobel network parts are shown soldered straight to the wires, at some distance from the connectors, say 1 cm or 1/2" , and "floating" which of course can be done but is terrible, wire flexing will eventually tear those parts legs.
Correct way is to solder the Zobel parts (they "should" show a dot between them meaning they are soldered 🙄 ) to the connector legs, and solder the wires there too.
So both wires and parts are soldered to a rigid point (the connector leg/terminal).
2) same on the XLR (3 leg) input or output connectors, since they share the same ground wire, you solder it to the ground terminal on one, then solder another wire from there to the ground leg on the other.
3) what rayma says, is than when you design a PCB which connects same voltage to different points, such as a power supply feeding other PCBs, it's good to provide several "holes" connected so each one receives its own wire.
4) sometimes you have long wires whuch have to be joined "midway", connectors or legs are far away; in that case you remove insulation in one, wrap the end of another around the now visible copper, and solder them together; just twisted connections are unreliable; then you insulate that exposed metal with heat shrink or tape.
Just as a side note, here's what famed Western Union, which provided telegraph services since the "cowboy times" used to provide reliable twisted , unsoldered wire splices:
Of course, as soon as soldering was available, they used:
A nice illustration, but not the one I learned! The splice shown can untwist underload. The western union splice I learned started out as what is shown, but the ends were folded back after 6 twists and then 3 more twists in the center at right angles to the first splice. The second twists keep the first set from unraveling. Of course as you are not splicing telegraph wires no one uses the second set of twists anymore.
Just as an aside, a great uncle wrote the directions that are still in print on how to build barbed wire fences! A bit trickier to splice that wire.
Just as an aside, a great uncle wrote the directions that are still in print on how to build barbed wire fences! A bit trickier to splice that wire.
Barrier terminal strips with ring or fork terminals? You can attach 4 wires to one two-screw terminal by turning the second two terminals upside-down. It looks tidy, and can be disconnected quickly for whatever reason.
Speaking of splices, how is it that the English seem to think that simply slathering solder on two wires and melting one into the other is reasonable? I've seen that technique used by two different TV mechanics, and in a book on electric bicycles written by a Brit.
Speaking of splices, how is it that the English seem to think that simply slathering solder on two wires and melting one into the other is reasonable? I've seen that technique used by two different TV mechanics, and in a book on electric bicycles written by a Brit.
Fwiw I'm not Brit (although Grandpa was Irish born in the 1890s, so technically he was, though) and do exactly that.
I guess the point lies in not making copper take any mechanical strain, soldered or not.
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