I'm in the process of making new cabinets for a pair of event 20/20 that have been just hanging around for years not really doing anything. Mainly because they are ugly. The cabs are pretty beat. One of the tweeters has a dent in the dome so I figured I should replace the set.
Can you recommend a tweeter for me? new cabs, so dimensions don't really matter.
I couldn't find specs on the originals but found a page where someone else needed the same thing. He came up with the perfect pairing apparently, but that tweeter is discontinued. Of course, haha.
This is what was recommended
Vifa DX25SG05-04 1" Fabric Dome Tweeter 4 Ohm | 279-171
I'm not looking to go crazy here as far as money is concerned, but am very open to suggestions.
These speakers will be used for full room listening from generally 12-18feet away.
And if it helps at all
As usual, thanks so much
Can you recommend a tweeter for me? new cabs, so dimensions don't really matter.
I couldn't find specs on the originals but found a page where someone else needed the same thing. He came up with the perfect pairing apparently, but that tweeter is discontinued. Of course, haha.
This is what was recommended
Vifa DX25SG05-04 1" Fabric Dome Tweeter 4 Ohm | 279-171
I'm not looking to go crazy here as far as money is concerned, but am very open to suggestions.
These speakers will be used for full room listening from generally 12-18feet away.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And if it helps at all
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As usual, thanks so much
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I was considering these?
Vifa BC25SG15-04 1" Shielded Dome Tweeter | 264-1026
And if you're interested, the link to the thread where I got my info.
Jumbo Sunshade, Music Gear Review - Event 20/20 Passive Studio Monitors
What I find odd, is I just noticed that the speaker taken out of the his speaker and my speaker are not the same. His has added depth with a magnet I believe.
While I don't need to buy from PE I have a cart waiting to get checked out there now. Saving on the shipping would be nice.
Are ribbon tweeters possible? I only ask because I like the way they look. My knowledge is just beginning.
Vifa BC25SG15-04 1" Shielded Dome Tweeter | 264-1026
And if you're interested, the link to the thread where I got my info.
Jumbo Sunshade, Music Gear Review - Event 20/20 Passive Studio Monitors
What I find odd, is I just noticed that the speaker taken out of the his speaker and my speaker are not the same. His has added depth with a magnet I believe.
While I don't need to buy from PE I have a cart waiting to get checked out there now. Saving on the shipping would be nice.
Are ribbon tweeters possible? I only ask because I like the way they look. My knowledge is just beginning.
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If you go for ribbons better use a new kit/design (midbass new project) because it will make you redesign the crossover for the new drivers. Sometimes same model of a driver are different with different year/versions and can or not be compatible. Design with existent drivers/project/diy to have a plan/layout of the crossover. It will make things easier for you and the designer or other diyAudio members.
Here various project from Troels using various types including
Seas T25CF001 E0006-06
Fountek NeoCD3 and JP3 ribbons (similar but different crossover)
Madisound NeoCD3 pdf
Monitor W15NeoSEAS W15CY001 +
It's not hard to pull out a squashed dome with a thin bent pin, as it goes. The small hole in the dome this makes is hardly worth worrying about. Old tweeters often have ferrofluid that has dried out and gone solid though. 🙂
It's worth measuring the DC resistance of the originals to get a match with the crossover. It'll be around 3R or 6R with 4 or 8 ohm nominal. Getting levels about right is slightly tricky, but I'd be comparing SPL at 2.83V/1m which is the more useful measure than 1W/1m with unknown impedance.
If you go for efficient, you can always pad it down with a couple of resistors. If you radically change the concept, as Inductor says, it's gonna need some redesign. Which is the sort of thing we like doing round here. 😀
It's worth measuring the DC resistance of the originals to get a match with the crossover. It'll be around 3R or 6R with 4 or 8 ohm nominal. Getting levels about right is slightly tricky, but I'd be comparing SPL at 2.83V/1m which is the more useful measure than 1W/1m with unknown impedance.
If you go for efficient, you can always pad it down with a couple of resistors. If you radically change the concept, as Inductor says, it's gonna need some redesign. Which is the sort of thing we like doing round here. 😀
Yowzers! Ok, those ribbons are a thing of beauty but for sake of practicality and cost concerns I will leave out the ribbons as suggested for this fixer upper. Thanks for turning me on to them though.
system7 thanks also for replying but you also have this electronically challenged brain over its limit. Let's keep it simple for me, at least to begin with.
If I was actually able to measure the resistance (sounds sorta easyish) I think I might be lost after that.
I'm trying to get my toes wet, not drown. 😀
system7 thanks also for replying but you also have this electronically challenged brain over its limit. Let's keep it simple for me, at least to begin with.
If I was actually able to measure the resistance (sounds sorta easyish) I think I might be lost after that.
I'm trying to get my toes wet, not drown. 😀
Hi,
Shouldn't be too hard to dismantle the tweeter and
push the dome back out. The Vifa's should work.
I'd try fixing the originals first.
rgds, sreten.
Some cheaper ferrofluid 4 ohm domes here :
http://www.apexjr.com/speakerstuff.html
Shouldn't be too hard to dismantle the tweeter and
push the dome back out. The Vifa's should work.
I'd try fixing the originals first.
rgds, sreten.
Some cheaper ferrofluid 4 ohm domes here :
http://www.apexjr.com/speakerstuff.html
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You can often work a dome out with sticky tape as well, as long as it isn't too sticky it won't cause any damage. Some tweeters come apart, some are glued together and don't. The tweeter looks like a reasonable quality unit, worth trying before replacing.
Thanks for the advice. I thought they would need replacing because of the dent.
Got them pulled apart. The dent left creases though, as they've been there for years. I thought about putting them over some steam and massaging them.
Any input?
Got them pulled apart. The dent left creases though, as they've been there for years. I thought about putting them over some steam and massaging them.
Any input?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can massage the domes with some rubbing alcohol applying it with a small brush. But only do this if someone with more experience tells you it's ok (because of glues and solvents). After it gets dry it might return to it's original form and flex. I did not say this.
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