Hi guys,
I am looking for some tips and pointers on how to have a removable panel on speaker cabinet to adjust the padding and such.
My woodworking skills are at very beginner level and have access to limited tools, however if I can work out how to have one of the panel on the speaker cabinet that can be removed and affixed again, that would be great.
Recently, I built these speakers and I simply used glue and screws to fix the panels and now I am stuck with them as I cannot alter speaker wiring or acoustic padding.
Can someone please point me to right place for removable panels (youtube video would be nice).
I am looking for some tips and pointers on how to have a removable panel on speaker cabinet to adjust the padding and such.
My woodworking skills are at very beginner level and have access to limited tools, however if I can work out how to have one of the panel on the speaker cabinet that can be removed and affixed again, that would be great.
Recently, I built these speakers and I simply used glue and screws to fix the panels and now I am stuck with them as I cannot alter speaker wiring or acoustic padding.
Can someone please point me to right place for removable panels (youtube video would be nice).
We usually just adjust dampening via the woofer hole.
When the speaker is already built, the only way possible is to make a hole and screw over it with a larger piece of wood to seal it.
Hardly a good looking option.
When the speaker is already built, the only way possible is to make a hole and screw over it with a larger piece of wood to seal it.
Hardly a good looking option.
Thats what I am doing with what has already been built. But I was asking this for my next build, so I do not make the same mistake.
Look up tapped horn on YouTube. Most of them have panels and they are usually screwed on, you can used bolts and wing nuts but they can rattle even with caulk. If your going to be taking removing it often you can use weatherstripping or rubberized coating on the frame. Try and keep the access panel as small as possible.
weatherstripping!! That actually gives me the idea now, I think I get it. Lay the weatherstripping on internal cleats and just screw the panel to the cabinet. Hmm... Thanks for that.
Most of my speakers have removable back panels for easy access to xo etc, especially on small speakers. Also handy when removing drivers as they can get a thump from behind to remove them.
Just needs a cleat for the back panel to rest on and a gasket to seal it.
Just needs a cleat for the back panel to rest on and a gasket to seal it.
Attachments
You'd obviously have to look at other ways of doing your bracing with that previous speaker of yours as an example, however the rear panel is the easiest to make removable and gives incredibly good access.
Make the box minus the rear panel and glue in a recessed edge (on all sides) inside the box that the rear panel will screw to, such that the rear panel sits very slightly inside the rear of he box. Use some form of foam/rubber seal, plenty are available with an adhesive on one side, and it should prevent any leaks or vibration. You can also add braces side-to-side aligned with the rear that the rear panel will also screw to which provides further rigidity.
I don't have a pic of my own handy, here is a quick google image search result: Overnight Sensations FINISHED... -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Make the box minus the rear panel and glue in a recessed edge (on all sides) inside the box that the rear panel will screw to, such that the rear panel sits very slightly inside the rear of he box. Use some form of foam/rubber seal, plenty are available with an adhesive on one side, and it should prevent any leaks or vibration. You can also add braces side-to-side aligned with the rear that the rear panel will also screw to which provides further rigidity.
I don't have a pic of my own handy, here is a quick google image search result: Overnight Sensations FINISHED... -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
That really is a good build there you have. Where are you getting all these components here from Australia? I mean those speaker terminals, banana plugs and cables, etc. I am having to find that most of these needs to be imported.
Thank you. Yeah that weatherstrip did give me the idea. My only concern is the bracing, as you have mentioned, it will need to change somehow.
Will this work as a gasket to seal the back panel?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/raven-5m-grey-rp14-adhesive-foam-door-and-window-seal_p3970353
https://www.bunnings.com.au/raven-5m-grey-rp14-adhesive-foam-door-and-window-seal_p3970353
It should, provided the panel is screwed in tight enough. Just go there and see what they have in person, they should have rubber ones as well. I can't even remember where I bought all of mine from, I have a few different types laying about.
edit: If you're stuck for options and really want to get something together, a thin strip of blu-tack works as well.
As for components in Aus...
- Jaycar used to have quite a few basic components for crossovers however they have a lot less these days unfortunately. They still should have plenty of terminals, banana plugs, cables etc however I have previously ordered a bunch of such components online (i.e. ebay) in quantity and so normally have some handy for my next project.
- Altronics, for which there is sometimes a local distributor, also have some stuff (and you can order online).
- Wagner is probably the place to get the best range of components. Crossover components, hardware, speaker drivers etc. I've previously bought all such from them before.
You can also order direct from the US for harder to find stuff, and a heap of ebay sellers (often from China, shipping probably delayed at the moment) particularly for hardware such as bolts, screws, t-nuts, nutserts, threaded inserts, banana plugs, speaker spikes, all that kind of thing.
I try and avoid using wood screws an awful lot these days, trying to make maximum use of metal threads (through the use of t-nuts/nutserts/inserts) as it allows components to be removed/replaced without few of being able to really tighten it back down each time. Basically if is a permanent fixture then it's glued, and if it's removable then it's a metal thread.
That weather seal does disintegrate after a while. I use a polyethylene foam gasket that you can get from Wagner but I buy from WES Components (same place) as I have a trade account.
Foam Gasket Tape Polyethylene, Tape | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
For speaker components and hardware:
Soundlabs are an excellent supplier of caps, inductors, drivers etc.
Soundlabs Group
Speakerbug have Jantzen crossover components and other hardware such as a circle router guide. Excellent supplier that I've been using for ages.
SpeakerBug
Wagner is the retail arm of WES Components and has heaps of stuff. WES is where I get most of my drivers.
Wagner Online Electronic Stores | Wide range of electronic products, components and accessories
The Loudspeaker Kit is owned by WES so same speaker components and drivers.
The Loudspeaker Kit
Jaycar and Altronics don't have much to offer the speaker builder but Jaycar does have some good damping material and driver screws.
The speaker terminals are Dayton from WES and the wire is Supra Cables that is now hard to get in Australia but I bought mine in bulk before is disappeared. Can be bought from Madisound USA.
Don't start me on T-nuts etc as they are a pain. Troels has the same dislike of them and read his article. Nothing wrong with wood screws and I have designed and built over 60 speakers and in that time only 8 screws had issues which were solved using plastic masonry plugs.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/tips.htm#Screws
For Birch Plywood checkout Plyco and larger sheets are also available.
https://plyco.com.au/collections/quadro/products/quadro-birch
The marine ply at Bunnings is rubbish and no good for speaker building.
Still, most of my speakers are MDF covered in timber veneer but that's getting harder to find these days. Most of my veneers came from the UK but even getting harder to find.
Foam Gasket Tape Polyethylene, Tape | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
For speaker components and hardware:
Soundlabs are an excellent supplier of caps, inductors, drivers etc.
Soundlabs Group
Speakerbug have Jantzen crossover components and other hardware such as a circle router guide. Excellent supplier that I've been using for ages.
SpeakerBug
Wagner is the retail arm of WES Components and has heaps of stuff. WES is where I get most of my drivers.
Wagner Online Electronic Stores | Wide range of electronic products, components and accessories
The Loudspeaker Kit is owned by WES so same speaker components and drivers.
The Loudspeaker Kit
Jaycar and Altronics don't have much to offer the speaker builder but Jaycar does have some good damping material and driver screws.
The speaker terminals are Dayton from WES and the wire is Supra Cables that is now hard to get in Australia but I bought mine in bulk before is disappeared. Can be bought from Madisound USA.
Don't start me on T-nuts etc as they are a pain. Troels has the same dislike of them and read his article. Nothing wrong with wood screws and I have designed and built over 60 speakers and in that time only 8 screws had issues which were solved using plastic masonry plugs.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/tips.htm#Screws
For Birch Plywood checkout Plyco and larger sheets are also available.
https://plyco.com.au/collections/quadro/products/quadro-birch
The marine ply at Bunnings is rubbish and no good for speaker building.
Still, most of my speakers are MDF covered in timber veneer but that's getting harder to find these days. Most of my veneers came from the UK but even getting harder to find.
One other thing. When you drill the driver screw holes, countersink the entry point as it stops the mounding of MDF etc (see pic post #6). I then drive screws in and coat the threads with PVA which soaks in to give it extra strength especially in MDF.
Someones inability to think a little and not speak in absolutes doesn't make t-nuts, threaded inserts or nutserts a problem. Just today I used nutserts on a tweeter and 3" driver with very little "meat" in the baffle and they'll never be an issue - test fit, push the nutsert back out a little, a dab of glue and force it back in. Stainless hex-headed button screws look the part too.
They all have their place. Admittedly t-nuts are probably my most disliked and least used of the lot, just use them in the right circumstances - I wouldn't use them for drivers!
Perfect! Thank you for your help guys.
I did buy couple of things from Wagner in the past, so I am familiar with that one. I wasn't aware of the other places mentioned.
I think I am going to build a small bookshelf using Pluvia 7 or Pencil cabinet.
And thanks for the tips about the screws and nutserts.
I did buy couple of things from Wagner in the past, so I am familiar with that one. I wasn't aware of the other places mentioned.
I think I am going to build a small bookshelf using Pluvia 7 or Pencil cabinet.
And thanks for the tips about the screws and nutserts.