Well, I didn't know what sub forum, but plumped for this one. I have a valuable and loved old 1176LN. The front panel meter is secured by two screws which are very well sealed with red stuff on their visible shafts. I have tried a few of the solvents I have hear but no luck. Ideas?
I dare say the Loctite is not your issue. Focus on not stripping the heads of the screw and the nuts. Make sure you can see what you're doing, so use the right tools, magnifier and good light. Watch out for double nuts used to lock things.
I'm assuming you don't want to shear the screws and glue in the replacement?
Are they phillips or hex screws?
Are they phillips or hex screws?
Locked
Thanks for jumping in. I want to preserve this scene as if it were an old masters painting. Apart from sounding awesome these things are becoming highly priced. Originality or faithfulness to the original design and parts is a thing. The screws are kinda proprietary, they are bolts really with a slotted head. A 25mm grub screw if you will. If I could find a screwdriver with a captivating surround I could apply a bit of force. But now a regular screwdriver just pops out.
This Loctite is for keeps!
I will try to post a picture now.
Thanks for jumping in. I want to preserve this scene as if it were an old masters painting. Apart from sounding awesome these things are becoming highly priced. Originality or faithfulness to the original design and parts is a thing. The screws are kinda proprietary, they are bolts really with a slotted head. A 25mm grub screw if you will. If I could find a screwdriver with a captivating surround I could apply a bit of force. But now a regular screwdriver just pops out.
This Loctite is for keeps!
I will try to post a picture now.
Attachments
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First find a slotted screw driver that fits the slot very tightly. You want zero "wiggle room". So tight that it basically gets stuck in the slot.
Apply firm pressure to seat that driver in the slot, then twist the driver - by hand if possible, but if not then you can try gripping the shaft of the screwdriver with pliers or vise-grips and turning. You only need to crack the Loc-tite and the rest should be easy.
I have also used the edge of a long piece of metal to do this. Again the edge of the metal needs to fit as snugly as possible into the slot. The length of the metal will give you the leverage you need, but the metal needs to be strong enough not to simply bend or break. Angle aluminum for example.
https://www.clintonaluminum.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/6063-Aluminum-Angle-400x247.jpg
EDIT: Bugger. Its all over that bolt. But at least it is exposed. Hmmm... some sort of solvent might help...
Apply firm pressure to seat that driver in the slot, then twist the driver - by hand if possible, but if not then you can try gripping the shaft of the screwdriver with pliers or vise-grips and turning. You only need to crack the Loc-tite and the rest should be easy.
I have also used the edge of a long piece of metal to do this. Again the edge of the metal needs to fit as snugly as possible into the slot. The length of the metal will give you the leverage you need, but the metal needs to be strong enough not to simply bend or break. Angle aluminum for example.
https://www.clintonaluminum.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/6063-Aluminum-Angle-400x247.jpg
EDIT: Bugger. Its all over that bolt. But at least it is exposed. Hmmm... some sort of solvent might help...
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Slot
The slot is very shallow. I tried my best fitting screwdrivers, and they popped out. I will see if there is a product with a sheath tomorrow if any hardware shop is open. There is no space for power assisters in there and lots of irreplaceable parts. The Loctite is applied over about 10mm of the bolt. I would need to crack about 2mm of that I reckon to allow escape. I really need this Loctite dissolved.
The slot is very shallow. I tried my best fitting screwdrivers, and they popped out. I will see if there is a product with a sheath tomorrow if any hardware shop is open. There is no space for power assisters in there and lots of irreplaceable parts. The Loctite is applied over about 10mm of the bolt. I would need to crack about 2mm of that I reckon to allow escape. I really need this Loctite dissolved.
Note: The problem with my brute force method is that you could end up breaking the end of the bolt off. I wrote that up before seeing the photo.
You said you want to preserve this, but I'd be temped to take vise-grips straight to the bolt itself and replace it after. There must be a way to dissolve loc-tite.
You said you want to preserve this, but I'd be temped to take vise-grips straight to the bolt itself and replace it after. There must be a way to dissolve loc-tite.
Wait. You said "no heat". I assume you mean "no blow torch".
But what about very localized heat? Could you safely heat it up with your soldering iron without transferring too much heat to surrounding components?
But what about very localized heat? Could you safely heat it up with your soldering iron without transferring too much heat to surrounding components?
Solution
No Heat. A replacement refurb meter would be about €400. Tomorrow I will be shopping for Methylene Chloride......... I am 65 and a bit scruffy..... Breaking Bad is on my mind. Might have to shave......
No Heat. A replacement refurb meter would be about €400. Tomorrow I will be shopping for Methylene Chloride......... I am 65 and a bit scruffy..... Breaking Bad is on my mind. Might have to shave......
> what about very localized heat?
The white pyramid is a thin plastic light-shield, irreplaceable. And I think the screw is threaded in a short bit of steel which bears on a step in the plastic.
NO heat.
Why do we think LockTite? Glyptol was popular in those days. Classic Glyptol will not melt or dissolve in any heat or chemistry you want to be near.
The white pyramid is a thin plastic light-shield, irreplaceable. And I think the screw is threaded in a short bit of steel which bears on a step in the plastic.
NO heat.
Why do we think LockTite? Glyptol was popular in those days. Classic Glyptol will not melt or dissolve in any heat or chemistry you want to be near.
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Have you tried ACETONE?
Acetone dissolves almost everything.. use a small brush to apply. it will take a while, but finally you will be able to remove that Bolt. Don's spray or apply to any plastic, it will "melt away instantly"
Acetone dissolves almost everything.. use a small brush to apply. it will take a while, but finally you will be able to remove that Bolt. Don's spray or apply to any plastic, it will "melt away instantly"
No, any heat will go right thru the metal mounting tab and melt the meter housing. As PRR says "NO heat"
I heard somewhere that loctite doesn't like to be below freezing, you could try a refrigerent aerosol. It looks like you've got enough thread to screw two nuts on, lock them together and use the nut closest to the uv meter to unscrew it. Perhaps use a die to clear any loctite stopping the nuts going on.
That STRONGLY hints at red nail enamel,a very popular sealing/locking product, predating Loctite by decades (as in: 50 or 60 years earlier, go figure).
Being a nitrocellulose based paint/enamel, correct solvent is either:
* acetone
* car paint thinner (which contains acetone and other solvents)
* ethyl ether (often contained in the above mentioned thinner)
* nail enamel remover (same thing)
* probably MEK
Alcohol of any kind, turpentine, toluene,xylene, etc. will NOT dissolve it.
Stop calling it Loctite. Red Loctite is serious stuff, usually only used if designers screwed up or using something for heavy duty service it was not designed for.
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