Ahhhh, we had a drill drop onto a new woofer and it tore the cone pretty bad. A straight tear from the dust cap to the surround, and then on the inside of the surround about 2-3 inches.
I see parts-express sells this:
SureHold 360 SureFlex Flexible Adhesive
Has anyone done any successful repairs with this product, or can you suggest a better method. I don't really care what it looks like, I just don't want to have to re-cone the speaker. I was wondering if just using silicone caulk would work?
Thanks for any help!
I see parts-express sells this:
SureHold 360 SureFlex Flexible Adhesive
Has anyone done any successful repairs with this product, or can you suggest a better method. I don't really care what it looks like, I just don't want to have to re-cone the speaker. I was wondering if just using silicone caulk would work?
Thanks for any help!
Sounds pretty badly damaged. It's unlikely to be as good as new if you try to hack the repair but it will still work. Youtube has a bunch of videos with speaker repairs.
The one below looks like a quick and nasty bodge job but it might give you some ideas?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7RG7rjWIyM
The one below looks like a quick and nasty bodge job but it might give you some ideas?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7RG7rjWIyM
Try not to use silicone caulk, because once you use it and the repair fails(silicone caulk repairs eventually fail) you will find it hard to use another type of glue to fix your repair, the surehold 360 is probably a solvent based neoprene glue which will do the repair job required.
I got a little more than halfway through that video and I have to say.
NO!
That person lacks knowledge and skill. That is a total hack job.
Assuming the cone is paper:
Yes, use PVA glue
No don't use it straight, water it down a little. (maybe 10%)
No don't squeeze it on there like there's no tomorrow, use it sparingly
No don't do it on the front of the cone unless absolutely necessary
1. Align the cone tear, brush the glue mix on either side of the tear, gently lay in a 1/2 to 1" wide strip of tissue and paint over that with the mix. Use only enough to do the job, don't allow the mix to run.
Do the same thing on the back of the cone 180º from that repair to balance things out.
For goodness sakes, forget you ever saw that video unless you want to ruin a speaker or have a good laugh. The idea is to use as little as possible so you don't change the specs of the driver.
NO!
That person lacks knowledge and skill. That is a total hack job.
Assuming the cone is paper:
Yes, use PVA glue
No don't use it straight, water it down a little. (maybe 10%)
No don't squeeze it on there like there's no tomorrow, use it sparingly
No don't do it on the front of the cone unless absolutely necessary
1. Align the cone tear, brush the glue mix on either side of the tear, gently lay in a 1/2 to 1" wide strip of tissue and paint over that with the mix. Use only enough to do the job, don't allow the mix to run.
Do the same thing on the back of the cone 180º from that repair to balance things out.
For goodness sakes, forget you ever saw that video unless you want to ruin a speaker or have a good laugh. The idea is to use as little as possible so you don't change the specs of the driver.
I have had good results the repair never was noticed in use) using rubber cement and newspaper, coating both the newspaper and the cone, then lightly brushing more cement over the repair area. A light coat of black spray paint after the cement dries if cosmetics are a concern. For a heavy woofer repair both sides for a stronger "sandwich".
I never bothered to do a balance strip as Cal recommends in #4, but have not had to repair anything much longer than a few inches, for a major repair like DHAA balancing is probably advisable.
I never bothered to do a balance strip as Cal recommends in #4, but have not had to repair anything much longer than a few inches, for a major repair like DHAA balancing is probably advisable.
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Might be worth looking into a fibreglass car repair kit to fix the tear.
Have to admit I have done something similar but just a hole not a tear,
I was tightening a speaker screw and the screwdriver slipped off and went right through the cone. I filled the hole with epoxy and it lasted for many years until I sold the speakers on. I have always used crosshead screws since as they don't slip out so easy.
Have to admit I have done something similar but just a hole not a tear,
I was tightening a speaker screw and the screwdriver slipped off and went right through the cone. I filled the hole with epoxy and it lasted for many years until I sold the speakers on. I have always used crosshead screws since as they don't slip out so easy.
Fiberglass is very strong but might add too much mass, and that kind of strength may not be necessary.
Newspaper sounds like an alternate scrim material provided it will saturate properly as the tissue does. You're not looking for a lamination, you want full saturation.
Can you get Robertson screws where you live? Those with a clutched driver are the cat's meow.
Newspaper sounds like an alternate scrim material provided it will saturate properly as the tissue does. You're not looking for a lamination, you want full saturation.
Can you get Robertson screws where you live? Those with a clutched driver are the cat's meow.
You can just place one piece of thin fibreglass on each side of the cone.
That shouldn't be too heavy, just don't go mad with the resin.
That shouldn't be too heavy, just don't go mad with the resin.
Newspaper wets out nicely with PVA glue or rubber cement. I'd agree that fiberglass is overkill (and overweight), though for a single punch hole as Nigel had would be OK. There are various fiberglass products with fine glass already chopped in that would be good for perforation repairs, but long tears are better addressed with a light laminate as we have used.
Newspaper with rubber cement has also worked well for repairing screwdriver tears through accordion pleat surrounds, but requires patience working into the pleats..
Way off subject here but I use Tapping screw inserts McMaster-Carr with a little 5 minute epoxy and Socket head cap screws, or button head cap screws. View catalog page for the assortment.
You will never have any sort of problem again, including slipping through the cone with the driver.
OK, back to subject
Dave
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Yes, I use threaded inserts when they are called for but you're right, that's a bit OT. What about if we talk about the damage to the cones? I haven't done that for a while as I like to rotate the cabinet (or me for that matter) so the fastener is closest to my body and then cup my hand around the driver bit. It's been a long time since I had a 'poke a speaker oops'.
That being said whaddya bet I do it next speaker? 😀
That being said whaddya bet I do it next speaker? 😀
You could try mesh tape (think fibreglass with 1/2 to 1/3 the fibre density) used for drywall applications and wet with white glue (PVA) cut with water.
Best of luck.
Matt
Best of luck.
Matt
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