film is always the better choice soundwise
the only exception would be when you need big values and it quickly becomes very expensive and bulky with film. then back to back electros are the smart choice plus they double in voltage rating that way
in your case 2.2uF paralleled with 0.47uF will be just fine.
voltage rating wise anything above 50V is fine in my book, does not hurt to go higher, only costs more but what is money for audiophiles...
That is a very crude "crossover", (and that being polite), just a 2.7uF bipolar electrolytic in series with midrange and tweeter.
IF it works, leave as is; or best case replace with fresh ones, same type, there is not much to "improve" there.
If really interested, proper would be to get and mount there a 4 way crossover board sourced from, say, Parts Express or similar.
Pioneer literature mentions
| Crossover frequency |
|
which of course is bollocks, you can´t do that with just 2 capacitors, to boot same value
In my view, waste of time and money, but hey, you decide.
Hy,
Thank you all. I'm just looking to refresh it a bit. I'm not looking into modifying really.
I like the overall sound, it's just that sometimes I get kind of... I don't know how to describe the sound... like one would shake the aluminum foil... the sound is not really loud and it's just audible for a split second, just on some songs that sound a bit brighter...
I can't tell if it's coming from the tweeter or mid range...
I'm not looking to put any work in these, except of replacing capacitors... I can live with that until I buy something new...
Thank you all. I'm just looking to refresh it a bit. I'm not looking into modifying really.
I like the overall sound, it's just that sometimes I get kind of... I don't know how to describe the sound... like one would shake the aluminum foil... the sound is not really loud and it's just audible for a split second, just on some songs that sound a bit brighter...
I can't tell if it's coming from the tweeter or mid range...
I'm not looking to put any work in these, except of replacing capacitors... I can live with that until I buy something new...
If you change these they might be even brighter, not sure. Maybe you should be prepared to add some resistance?
Are you playing the speakers really loudly? Is your room bright and reflective?
Doubtful that changing capacitors would help such a problem. It may be inherent in the driver.
Yes, going from electrolytic to film capacitors will often seem to cause brighter sound.
Doubtful that changing capacitors would help such a problem. It may be inherent in the driver.
Yes, going from electrolytic to film capacitors will often seem to cause brighter sound.
I used to play them loudly... now I moved and here I can't play as loud....
Different room, different amplifier, same sound...
I'm not saying that they sound too bright. I ment to say that when song is naturaly brighter I can hear sound like someone would shake aluminium foil...
I dont need tweeter attenuation, they sound balanced to me...
I will change the caps with electrolitycs and see from there... would brand of caps matter? Or does it only matter with high end stuff?
I can get I think Nichicon localy... other brands would need to be ordered.
Different room, different amplifier, same sound...
I'm not saying that they sound too bright. I ment to say that when song is naturaly brighter I can hear sound like someone would shake aluminium foil...
I dont need tweeter attenuation, they sound balanced to me...
I will change the caps with electrolitycs and see from there... would brand of caps matter? Or does it only matter with high end stuff?
I can get I think Nichicon localy... other brands would need to be ordered.
I would not worry about the brand, but do make sure you order bipolar (non polar) electrolytic capacitors and not ordinary polarised ones.
RS do a 3.3 uF Nichicon bipolar capacitor, which is probably good enough for your purposes when its tolerance range of +/- 20% is taken into account.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5232814
RS do a 3.3 uF Nichicon bipolar capacitor, which is probably good enough for your purposes when its tolerance range of +/- 20% is taken into account.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5232814
I really don't like to play with crossovers because of the testing... I always start brainstorming because I can't decide when it sounds better... Last time I did this I ended up with strange sounding speakers... I could tell that something was way off, but not what... so after some time spent I reverted back to stock. I believe that setting the crossover is art and also that manufacturer intended it that way for a reason and I sure that I am not better than engineers at Pioneer were...
So yes I would like to pass this time and just refresh it.
Seems like overly bright - very common for that kind of speakers. Replace 2.7uF capacitors with 2.2 uF bipolar electrolytic ones, 63V or 100V.
It may be that you have a high frequency resonance problem rather than a capacitor problem.
It just may be mechanical in origin.
I would ensure that all the drivers are screwed up tight and there is nothing loose inside the enclosure. Even the internal wiring can cause vibration induced noise if touching the walls of the enclosure. For good measure, I would examine the integrity of the leaves of the acoustic lenses on the tweeters.
This might be classed as clutching at straws, but it can do no harm checking.
