Hello,
I recently needed to pull a tweeter from my Pioneers because it had a broken connection and since it's wired in series with the other tweeter, was not letting that one work either. The model of the tweeter is Pioneer 66-47F. These do not seem readily available.
This leads me to two questions. 1) Is it true that if I am replacing one with a different type/model I should replace all of them so that all tweeters are the same? 2) Do you have recommendations for good performing and reasonably priced tweeters that would be a suitable replacement? Thanks,
Zak
I recently needed to pull a tweeter from my Pioneers because it had a broken connection and since it's wired in series with the other tweeter, was not letting that one work either. The model of the tweeter is Pioneer 66-47F. These do not seem readily available.
This leads me to two questions. 1) Is it true that if I am replacing one with a different type/model I should replace all of them so that all tweeters are the same? 2) Do you have recommendations for good performing and reasonably priced tweeters that would be a suitable replacement? Thanks,
Zak
Hi,
I remember i started wandering on the net when I acquired a pair of Kenwood KL777 which are similar to yours. Indeed, I discovered a whole world of audio
and DIY that I wasn't aware of !
I gained experience from the others and from my own experiments.
About those tweeters : nowadays a single tweeter can do the same duty
as those two plus the horn one ! So you need to find only the right unit -If you fell that you're OK with a non- original box ( modified).
Any tweeter in the 50 $ league would surpass in performance the combination of those plus the horn one.
You have to make sure which sound output is needed for a given voltage, i.e.
sensitivity.
I remember i started wandering on the net when I acquired a pair of Kenwood KL777 which are similar to yours. Indeed, I discovered a whole world of audio
and DIY that I wasn't aware of !
I gained experience from the others and from my own experiments.
About those tweeters : nowadays a single tweeter can do the same duty
as those two plus the horn one ! So you need to find only the right unit -If you fell that you're OK with a non- original box ( modified).
Any tweeter in the 50 $ league would surpass in performance the combination of those plus the horn one.
You have to make sure which sound output is needed for a given voltage, i.e.
sensitivity.
Thanks for the response. So your recommendation is that if I'm going to replace the tweeter with a new/nice one then I should buy two, mount one in each cabinet, and then disable the existing tweeters/"supertweeters" that are functional?
Will I have to redesign/modify the crossover network as well in that case? I was hoping to avoid that and simply drop in replacement tweeters, but this hope may not be based in reality. I also intend to do a re-cap of the xover network but haven't gotten serious about tracking down the parts yet. Would you guys agree that it makes more sense to do that first? I was wondering if drifting caps could have resulted in the tweeter burn out in the first place. Thanks again.
Will I have to redesign/modify the crossover network as well in that case? I was hoping to avoid that and simply drop in replacement tweeters, but this hope may not be based in reality. I also intend to do a re-cap of the xover network but haven't gotten serious about tracking down the parts yet. Would you guys agree that it makes more sense to do that first? I was wondering if drifting caps could have resulted in the tweeter burn out in the first place. Thanks again.
Well, it is not as that easy as it looks. First you should know the old driver at least this:
a) How many ohms
b) S.P.L
c) wattage
and after that change BOTH 😉 no matter if the other one is still good!
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I will look into those parameters. Should I change the ones in the other speaker enclosure that work to match with the new ones, or is that not important?
You should change the other tweeter too, no matter if the other tweeter is still good (to match them acoustically). you can check the impedance with a DMM using the tweeter that is good, the wattage I would look for something in the 50 watts R.M.S to be sure. and now you should look for the S.P.L and that is more difficult. if you put a tweeter with higher S.P.L than the original, you will hear the highs louder and to avoid this is to match the S.P.L or build a L-pad to compensate.
Pico,
Discussing design flaws may be informative, but not helpful in getting the existing enclosure sounding as good as possible. I'm just looking for a simple and cost effective solution to getting both speaker enclosures sounding decent and balanced together. It sounds like I should be trying to find something as closely matched as possible and replacing all four. Thanks for the input.
Discussing design flaws may be informative, but not helpful in getting the existing enclosure sounding as good as possible. I'm just looking for a simple and cost effective solution to getting both speaker enclosures sounding decent and balanced together. It sounds like I should be trying to find something as closely matched as possible and replacing all four. Thanks for the input.
It should be around 90 dB/W/m
But that value is true on different baffle , with different woofer and mid(s).
Probably in the 92/94 dB area, which is mid-hi sensitivity.
Only things that come to my mind are modern neodimium tweeters , with 1''
and very little faceplates.
If 8Ω , the crossover might give the right attenuation under 2-3 KHz which is needed
Modern tweeters have often a res. freq. well under 1KHz.
Good.
Then there's the problem of making it nice
And obviously if it sounds nice
Hint
When it's a tweeter
Go and find a subwoofer
😱
😛
😉
But that value is true on different baffle , with different woofer and mid(s).
Probably in the 92/94 dB area, which is mid-hi sensitivity.
Only things that come to my mind are modern neodimium tweeters , with 1''
and very little faceplates.
If 8Ω , the crossover might give the right attenuation under 2-3 KHz which is needed
Modern tweeters have often a res. freq. well under 1KHz.
Good.
Then there's the problem of making it nice
And obviously if it sounds nice
Hint
When it's a tweeter
Go and find a subwoofer
😱
😛
😉
BTW I ended in utilizing the woofer of my Kenwood's
in a 4 way without any box , just a frame where the woofer is attached
That's why I suggested for a sub
Post # 2264 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/23208-system-pictures-description-227.html
Indeed, it has two tweeters 😛😱
I also made a bigger box which sounded very loud with the same components -just one tweeter
The crossover was very simple like this one, but series type ( just two components...Ugh ! )
in a 4 way without any box , just a frame where the woofer is attached
That's why I suggested for a sub
Post # 2264 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/23208-system-pictures-description-227.html
Indeed, it has two tweeters 😛😱
I also made a bigger box which sounded very loud with the same components -just one tweeter
The crossover was very simple like this one, but series type ( just two components...Ugh ! )
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