I just received a Fidelity Research FR-64s. I'd like to rewire it. I've done some research on the web but I can't see the way to disassemble it. It appears from photos on the internet that the cap on the dynamic VTF knob must come off but I don't know the trick to remove it without damage. Any guidance will be most appreciated.
EDIT March 2023: I've now rewired several of the FR-64 series (S and fx). I'm attaching a document with quite a few photos to the end of this first post
EDIT March 2023: I've now rewired several of the FR-64 series (S and fx). I'm attaching a document with quite a few photos to the end of this first post
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Not 100% sure but if I recall I think it's held on by glue. I remember reading that the cap fell off on someone. If I can remember where I saw that post, I'll link it here.
BillWojo
BillWojo
Thanks, Bill. That appears to be the case. Now I wonder how to remove itwithout damage. Perhaps solvent around the edges?
I was able to successfully restore and rewire my FR64S and thought I'd share the process. I cold not find anything on the web that detailed this process, so it's possible that there's a better approach than the one I used.
- remove counterweight and lateral balance weight
- remove the counterweight stub - it simply unscrews (protect with leather jaws)
- remove base. my arm has 2 setscrews, both of with are steel point and have marked up the pillar. I replaced with setscrews with nylon inserts. M4 - 7mm
- remove the anti-skate (a/s) device - this unscrews
- remove the rod on which the lateral balance weight attaches - simply unscrews (protect finish with leather jaws)
- remove the stainless collar around the place where lateral balance rod threads - this is just glued but be careful not to scratch
- remove threaded collar. this photo shows the collar sliding off and the brass collar beneath. the brass collar unscrews using a pin through the 2 holes you can just see in the photo
- the photo also shows the trim removed from the slot in the pillar.
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- after threaded collar is removed you remove the nut. this requires a small metric wrench and even smaller wrench to hold the flats on the shaft that protrudes from the body - below you can see the nut removed and before the balance assembly is removed from the pillar
- next I removed the 2 setscrews in the pillar (under the trim piece in the slot). top 2 are for arm pivot and bottom one is DIN. The outside of the pillar will slip off as shown: (by the way, these setscrews were slotted and very difficult to remove). I replaced with hex-head setscrews - they're a standard metric size
- at this point the wires will still be connected from headshell fitting all the way thru to the DIN. I just cut them at this time and separated the wand/balance assembly from the pillar assembly
- next the balance assembly can be removed from the body. Note that some of my photos have gone missing, sorry. I'll insert them if I find them.
- the wand and balance assembly includes the rotating knob which controls VTF. You can pop off the cover on the knob to access the mechanism (it's just glued. I drizzled some acetone into the knob to help loosen the cover plate and pried off with small knife blade.
- then I soaked the wand/balance assembly in acetone to clean old grease and bearing oil
- next I removed the headshell connector and rewired - feeding from headshell end into wand and through
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- in this photo you can see the brass collar that holds the horizontal bearings (there are 2)
- remove the nut at the outboard end and the brass collar can be removed so the bearing can be cleaned and lubricated. I used instrument oil because you need a VERY light oil (some type of clock oil would likely work also but I don't know where to get it. instrument oil is available from Mcmaster Carr
- next lube the bearings in the balance assembly (instrument oil) and lightly grease the dynamic balance spring that is obvious with the cover on the balance knob removed. This grease serves to damp the spring and not as a lubricant. It's very important to clean old grease off ann replace with new or else you'll have a resonance problem.
- Next reverse the process to reassemble.
- Note that the aluminum trim piece that fits in the slot in the pillar is very soft. Mine was easily damaged by the steel point setscrews. eventually I'll replace it but it's strictly cosmetic
- Again my apologies for losing some photos. For me the critical part was determining how to start the disassembly process. It begins with the rod that holds the lateral balance and works inwards.
- I'm happy to answer questions because this tome is some what brief at best.
- Oh, and I replaced the arm lifter with one from Audio Silente. The original is poorly made - the actual lift bar is simply press-fit plastic. Audio Silente's version is nicely machined stainless.
I love tonearm tear down post, especially when it's done with no damage like this one. Very nice work.
BillWojo
BillWojo
I suppose that would be possible if you had a source for stainless tubing of the proper diameter. I think it could be bent using a tubing bender. The arm wand is held in place with a setscrew and glue. It would require a bit more disassembly to expose the setscrew, but that's feasible.
It's probably not something I will try, mostly because I'm not a fan of 12"arms.
It's probably not something I will try, mostly because I'm not a fan of 12"arms.
Was there any damping inside the original arm tube and if not did you address this with some kind of expandable
foam or something else ?
foam or something else ?
No damping in the arm wand. Would be simple to add by just loosening the headshell connector and pulling it gently enough to insert some.
I'm not sure I answered your question.
I've now rewired several of the FR64 series arms. I attached a document at the beginning of this thread with lots of photos and the differences between "fx' and 'S' arms identified (there's only 1).
I've now rewired several of the FR64 series arms. I attached a document at the beginning of this thread with lots of photos and the differences between "fx' and 'S' arms identified (there's only 1).