I'm building some HT speakers and wondering if I should buy a built sub and re house it or put one together from a raw driver and amp? I want something small that my wife won't protest too much. I'm on a very tight budget but I can stretch to about $500. Its going in a small room and we usually don't listen too loud. I'd like to hit f3 in the low 20s. Looking at the RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII versus the Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer with the Bash 500S Digital Subwoofer Plate Amplifier 500W RMS. If not one of these then what do you reccomend?
These are rendered concepts. The 10" sub box is 1.5 ft3 plus port.
I was going to go more budget with the 12" GRS 12SW-4HE and dayton 300 watt amp, but the cabinet ended up way too big to get the ok from the minister. Since we hope to live with this sub for many years I'm going to spend extra for the smaller size. These are some of the concepts I had played with.
In case you were wondering the plan is to cnc the cabinet parts and use lime plaster or microcement to coat the exterior. The baffle will be mdf with white oak veneer.
These are rendered concepts. The 10" sub box is 1.5 ft3 plus port.
I was going to go more budget with the 12" GRS 12SW-4HE and dayton 300 watt amp, but the cabinet ended up way too big to get the ok from the minister. Since we hope to live with this sub for many years I'm going to spend extra for the smaller size. These are some of the concepts I had played with.
In case you were wondering the plan is to cnc the cabinet parts and use lime plaster or microcement to coat the exterior. The baffle will be mdf with white oak veneer.
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Hmm, being a DIY forum...........regardless, going strictly by what's published for the RSL, driver, amp, I'm having a hard time justifying DIY as having any real performance advantage, then factor in near enough no cost savings........
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I think they look great! Go fo it. But see to that you have ample EQ possibilities to get the to play the way you want and fit the room. and i you do - skip the ported design and go sealed - if it is a small room and you have two, using DSP and 500W, you can get what you want for sure.
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Not really, but then being 'old school' I don't consider assembling a modern kit as 'DIY' per se same as assembling a prefab 'assemble by the numbers' wooden model plane Vs 'scratch' building it from raw materials.
I went ahead and got the RSL speedwoofer. I'm excited to re-house it. I've got the opportunity to redesign the port, but without any raw driver figures I'm not sure how to go about that. Does anybody have any ideas for improvements on the narrow slot port?
Normally you would have to take the driver out and measure its specs for simming purposes, though I imagine it's already optimized as much as practical without designing a whole new cab alignment, in which case better to just DIY from scratch.
NastyNick,
The narrow slot port located on the cabinet wall tunes lower for a given length and volume of cabinet space than would one of a lower aspect ratio.
"Improvement" by making the port a more typical shape with the same or more area would require making it much longer, requiring more box volume to account for volume lost to the port, and DSP corrections for it's different pipe resonance.
Since the DSP is built in, probably not user adjustable.
Before considering any improvements, determine the Fb (box tuning). Do a frequency sweep near the low end of the driver, excursion should be at minimum at Fb.
Once you have determined Fb, you can verify the new box Fb comes in at the same frequency.
Art
The narrow slot port located on the cabinet wall tunes lower for a given length and volume of cabinet space than would one of a lower aspect ratio.
"Improvement" by making the port a more typical shape with the same or more area would require making it much longer, requiring more box volume to account for volume lost to the port, and DSP corrections for it's different pipe resonance.
Since the DSP is built in, probably not user adjustable.
Before considering any improvements, determine the Fb (box tuning). Do a frequency sweep near the low end of the driver, excursion should be at minimum at Fb.
Once you have determined Fb, you can verify the new box Fb comes in at the same frequency.
Art
Ah thats cool. Thank you @weltersys. I figured as long as the surface area of the port was unchanged a less narrow slot might not chuff as bad. Who knows? But I'll probably just copy the port in my new housing.