Hi,
I am planning a new 2-way project with thin shallow wall speakers. I have 10 liter box and going to use Peerless GBS-135F25AL02-04 (5,5") and wonder if there is some tweeter you can recommend?
Is there some benefits to use double GBS-135F25AL02-04 in each loudspeaker?
Best regards
I am planning a new 2-way project with thin shallow wall speakers. I have 10 liter box and going to use Peerless GBS-135F25AL02-04 (5,5") and wonder if there is some tweeter you can recommend?
Is there some benefits to use double GBS-135F25AL02-04 in each loudspeaker?
Best regards
I am planning something similar with the GBS135 as well. 10 liters seems about right for vented, 8.5l seems minimum. Sealed should work too, since the wall mounting helps with bass. Double woofers basically means doubling the volume...
My current plan is to use one of the Peerless TC5 series tiny fullrangers as midtweeter, to avoid the early breakup of the metal woofer.
My current plan is to use one of the Peerless TC5 series tiny fullrangers as midtweeter, to avoid the early breakup of the metal woofer.
Interesting 😃
I have the Tectonic TEBM35C10-4. What do you think about them? Are the TC5 series better for this setup?
I have the Tectonic TEBM35C10-4. What do you think about them? Are the TC5 series better for this setup?
The Tectonics look like they would work pretty well, the low efficiency must be taken into account though. I rarely find that a problem as long as you don't expect party-level SPL from the speakers.
The TC5 are pretty similar, a wee bit louder. They are cheap, tiny, and well made, and fit well into a slim box (so do the little Tectonics I would guess). Tim Feleppa (TMM on this site) has tested them here: Timothy Feleppa's Pages: Speaker Measurements - Midrange/Fullrange Speakers 4" and smaller
The TC5 are pretty similar, a wee bit louder. They are cheap, tiny, and well made, and fit well into a slim box (so do the little Tectonics I would guess). Tim Feleppa (TMM on this site) has tested them here: Timothy Feleppa's Pages: Speaker Measurements - Midrange/Fullrange Speakers 4" and smaller
I saw that the TC5FB00-08 is 5w. Is that a problem compared to the GBS-135F25AL02-04 that is 35w?
Or should I go for a more powerful tweeter who can handel more power?
Or should I go for a more powerful tweeter who can handel more power?
The 5W rating is for a larger bandwidth - there's a lot more power in the lower frequencies. With a cutoff around 1kHz I can't see a problem.
Do you know how to measure and use something like VituixCad? That will be essential, especially for a project like this one: unconventional drivers, unconventional enclosure, unconventional placement.
Do you know how to measure and use something like VituixCad? That will be essential, especially for a project like this one: unconventional drivers, unconventional enclosure, unconventional placement.
If you can spend a bit more, go for SB tweeters, the SB26ADC or the SB29SDAC are much better in my opinion and only +/- 40€ down here...
The Peerless woofer calls for a tweeter that can cross comparatively low, which the Monacor unit can't, with its fs of 1600Hz.
SBA is always a good choice, the SB26STCN, a cheaper, but most of all slimmer model might be a good fit for your project. Check HifiCompass' test for distortion figures as to where it can be reasonably crossed.
SBA is always a good choice, the SB26STCN, a cheaper, but most of all slimmer model might be a good fit for your project. Check HifiCompass' test for distortion figures as to where it can be reasonably crossed.
I have Monacor DT-300.
What do you think about that? I have 62mm depth, so I think it will fit the enclosure.
What do you think about that? I have 62mm depth, so I think it will fit the enclosure.
With loudspeakers, individual items only matter as part of the whole. Of course manufacturers' brochures tell the story differently, claiming that such-and-such tweeter paints an incredible picture etc.
A loudspeaker is system design, and most capable drivers can be integrated somehow into such a system; you still need a concept, and a way of validating it - i.e. simulations / educated guesses to start, and measurements.
The game doesn't become any easier with an unusual concept and a pretty quirky driver such as the Peerless.
A loudspeaker is system design, and most capable drivers can be integrated somehow into such a system; you still need a concept, and a way of validating it - i.e. simulations / educated guesses to start, and measurements.
The game doesn't become any easier with an unusual concept and a pretty quirky driver such as the Peerless.
Thanks for input. I know it is a special project. I am going to measure and of course listen. The ear is the best tool ��
May I suggest doing a sim first on that GBS driver that includes baffle diffraction effects and the rear wall reinforcement. It's a fairly specific combination of cabinet depth and width that is going to work well with that driver with its rising response in the LF's. I found something around 3" deep and ~6-7 wide looked about right. Response Modeler works well for this.
I would then model just the woofer in a xo sim program because it looks maybe like the upper xo frequency might be limited and you would therefore be best served with a tweeter that can cross lower. I'm just eye-balling it though so I'm not totally sure. That's why I'd do the sims first.
Running 2 woofers in an MTM btw will make it a little cleaner and allow it tp play a little louder too. Xmax is only 3.3mm on that driver. Wiring them in series will also change to impedance from 4ohm up to 8ohm which may or may not make any difference to your amp. The MTM will also limit the vertical dispersion a little as well, which some people like while others - not so much.
I would then model just the woofer in a xo sim program because it looks maybe like the upper xo frequency might be limited and you would therefore be best served with a tweeter that can cross lower. I'm just eye-balling it though so I'm not totally sure. That's why I'd do the sims first.
Running 2 woofers in an MTM btw will make it a little cleaner and allow it tp play a little louder too. Xmax is only 3.3mm on that driver. Wiring them in series will also change to impedance from 4ohm up to 8ohm which may or may not make any difference to your amp. The MTM will also limit the vertical dispersion a little as well, which some people like while others - not so much.
Well, the ear certainly is the final arbiter, but it is not very good at telling you what to change to get rid of this fatiguing sound or that certain dullness. It's rather difficult to translate an impression or an intuition into crossover parts...
I'm some way off with my design, but I'll certainly post it here once it progresses from the drawing board.
Designing something like this is new for me so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
I would personally go with an MTM because of the limited SPL's due to the low xmax. I'd go sealed too and combine it with a sub because with such a slim cabinet, you need some pretty large remaining dimensions to create any significant internal volume.
The cabinet that worked best was around 10" x 26" x 4" (w x h x d) though a few other combinations in that ballpark were pretty similar. Using 1/2" wood everywhere except the back where I might use 1/4" because that back panel will sit right up against a wall, that gives you about 11L gross which will work fine for 2 of those Peerless in a closed box. Perhaps surprisingly, the sim is a little better with no edge roundovers or chamfers - in this case I wanted all the extra SPL's that the diffraction mid peak could provide.
With baffle diffraction and rear wall effects added in, the xo worked out easier than I expected but the best I could do was a xo frequency of about 1600Hz. So a low Fs tweeter is definitely required. I chose the SB29RDNC with an Fs of 680Hz and a smaller faceplate for closer C-2-C spacing between the woofers and because I had a file for it already in my computer.
The biggest unknown in the sims is the acoustic center for those Peerless low profile drivers - the regular rules are just not going to apply. In fact I expect the AC for the woofer will very unusually be in front of that for the tweeter. I guesstimated at 3/4" but I could be out to lunch on that one.
Pic 1 below is the combination of BD and the rear wall reinforcement and pic 2 is the xo sim if anybody is interested. I tend to fear for a tweeter's LF's when the xo point is low and the speaker can do decent SPL's so I took the extra effort to seriously squash the tweeter's resonant frequency.
Consider it a rough effort for now as I didn't sweat all of the details.
I would personally go with an MTM because of the limited SPL's due to the low xmax. I'd go sealed too and combine it with a sub because with such a slim cabinet, you need some pretty large remaining dimensions to create any significant internal volume.
The cabinet that worked best was around 10" x 26" x 4" (w x h x d) though a few other combinations in that ballpark were pretty similar. Using 1/2" wood everywhere except the back where I might use 1/4" because that back panel will sit right up against a wall, that gives you about 11L gross which will work fine for 2 of those Peerless in a closed box. Perhaps surprisingly, the sim is a little better with no edge roundovers or chamfers - in this case I wanted all the extra SPL's that the diffraction mid peak could provide.
With baffle diffraction and rear wall effects added in, the xo worked out easier than I expected but the best I could do was a xo frequency of about 1600Hz. So a low Fs tweeter is definitely required. I chose the SB29RDNC with an Fs of 680Hz and a smaller faceplate for closer C-2-C spacing between the woofers and because I had a file for it already in my computer.
The biggest unknown in the sims is the acoustic center for those Peerless low profile drivers - the regular rules are just not going to apply. In fact I expect the AC for the woofer will very unusually be in front of that for the tweeter. I guesstimated at 3/4" but I could be out to lunch on that one.
Pic 1 below is the combination of BD and the rear wall reinforcement and pic 2 is the xo sim if anybody is interested. I tend to fear for a tweeter's LF's when the xo point is low and the speaker can do decent SPL's so I took the extra effort to seriously squash the tweeter's resonant frequency.
Consider it a rough effort for now as I didn't sweat all of the details.
Attachments
What do you of using a fullrange speaker like Monacor (SPX-30M) to handle upper mid and high frequency?
Kaiutinrakennusohje Teini-seinakaiutin ja Teinijytky-aktiivisubwoofer - AudioVideo
Some Teen wall speakers. Actually I used the drivers but box was diffrent
Some Teen wall speakers. Actually I used the drivers but box was diffrent