Hi there I am a newbie in electronics diy so please be patient with my questions.
What are the rules for ordering replacement caps & opamps?
I am posting here various photos as well as a schematic i have found in order to make it for you easier to make suggestions.
Formerly i used a marantz cd43, which had a philips DAC if i recall well. Then the sound was poorer but it had more focus.
Would changing all those caps help me get back the focus?
This is what I think is "replaceable":
c527 - 47uF 50V
c627 - 47uF 50V
c201 - 100uF 63v
c214 - 220uF 16V
c211 - 220uF 16V
c209 - 470uF 16V
c204 - 1000uF 16V
c210 - 1000uF 16V
c205 - 4700uF 16V
and what about the values of the replacing capacitors? should they have the exact same value of capacitance and/or voltage?
How about PSU? it would be a good idea to make a new one I reckon. Any suggestions/designs?
here are the photos:
The player uncovered:
the player's PCB:
Do these also need replacing??? what should I change them for
q206 -
q218 - D1944/K111
q210 - B1274/R1A2
The PSU transformer.
transformer bottom
tranformer top view
and last the schematic.
Thank you very much for your time and help.
What are the rules for ordering replacement caps & opamps?
I am posting here various photos as well as a schematic i have found in order to make it for you easier to make suggestions.
Formerly i used a marantz cd43, which had a philips DAC if i recall well. Then the sound was poorer but it had more focus.
Would changing all those caps help me get back the focus?
This is what I think is "replaceable":
c527 - 47uF 50V
c627 - 47uF 50V
c201 - 100uF 63v
c214 - 220uF 16V
c211 - 220uF 16V
c209 - 470uF 16V
c204 - 1000uF 16V
c210 - 1000uF 16V
c205 - 4700uF 16V
and what about the values of the replacing capacitors? should they have the exact same value of capacitance and/or voltage?
How about PSU? it would be a good idea to make a new one I reckon. Any suggestions/designs?
here are the photos:
The player uncovered:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the player's PCB:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do these also need replacing??? what should I change them for
q206 -
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
q218 - D1944/K111
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
q210 - B1274/R1A2
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The PSU transformer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
transformer bottom
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
tranformer top view
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and last the schematic.
Thank you very much for your time and help.
the schematics show six muting transistors....if your running straight to the fixed outputs ....I would disconnect all of these.
next c627/c527 the dc blockers need to be replaced with the very best caps you can find....I'm always staggered by how much electrolytic effect the performance....I use paper in oils ...say 10uf at 400v ?
but wima film caps sound ok
replace the opamps with sockets and better opamps ...these are duals so you could try opa 2134 or opa2604 as a starting point ...but you will have to check that the ones fitted are compatable.
I'd leave the voltage regulators for later....
psu caps get the best you can and don't go more than double the original values but you can use higher temp and voltage ratings.
swap the rectifier diodes for schottky 11dq10's or better
don't forget that ic's will play a big part in the final sound and a good power cable will help too.
Sit the unit on bubble wrap ...if it makes a difference look to build a better vibration isolation.
damp the case on the nside with bitumen sheet or dynapad stuff.
next c627/c527 the dc blockers need to be replaced with the very best caps you can find....I'm always staggered by how much electrolytic effect the performance....I use paper in oils ...say 10uf at 400v ?
but wima film caps sound ok
replace the opamps with sockets and better opamps ...these are duals so you could try opa 2134 or opa2604 as a starting point ...but you will have to check that the ones fitted are compatable.
I'd leave the voltage regulators for later....
psu caps get the best you can and don't go more than double the original values but you can use higher temp and voltage ratings.
swap the rectifier diodes for schottky 11dq10's or better
don't forget that ic's will play a big part in the final sound and a good power cable will help too.
Sit the unit on bubble wrap ...if it makes a difference look to build a better vibration isolation.
damp the case on the nside with bitumen sheet or dynapad stuff.
I am surprised to not see premium electrolytics in there. My Sony ES receiver is populated with only Nichicon Muse Fine Gold electrolytics, and has Nichicon Gold Tune caps on the power supply rails.
part numbers?
Thank you for the recommendations zanash but let me ask you some stuff since I am a beginner and don't really understand everything...
Ic's are descent and power cable homemade braid shielded type, it DID make a difference together with the amps power cable.
One good thing about the particular player is its NON flimsy box. It is very firm and reasonably heavy, however damping will be applied.
Again thanx a lot for your advice. Any further help would be really apreciated
Thank you for the recommendations zanash but let me ask you some stuff since I am a beginner and don't really understand everything...
Can you be more specific? part number(Q603-Q604-Q503-Q504)? or mark the schematics? I should just unsolder these and shortcut?
This I get, it is pretty straightforward.
again, part number? what exactly do you mean by compatible?
which ones are they?
I'm afraid I lost you again...:-(
Ic's are descent and power cable homemade braid shielded type, it DID make a difference together with the amps power cable.
One good thing about the particular player is its NON flimsy box. It is very firm and reasonably heavy, however damping will be applied.
Again thanx a lot for your advice. Any further help would be really apreciated
CD player dead :-(
After carefully replacing all the above caps with equally rated BG´s the cd player is now dead...
It will not turn ON neither the mechanical parts move.
I have alredy checked all the internal connections they seem fine.
Also the soldering seems to be OK.
How should I proceed to find what's wrong?
I know this is a very "wide" question but please give me a starting point if you may. Thanx everyone
After carefully replacing all the above caps with equally rated BG´s the cd player is now dead...
It will not turn ON neither the mechanical parts move.
I have alredy checked all the internal connections they seem fine.
Also the soldering seems to be OK.
How should I proceed to find what's wrong?
I know this is a very "wide" question but please give me a starting point if you may. Thanx everyone
assuming that you did the work in easy stages and checked at each stage the machine worked ?
in which case just check the last area on which you worked ....
failing that
no power up suggests no power ...
check all flexible jumpers and connections
foil connectors need to be pushed deep into the sockets not just resting in them ..
so start with the main caps and check you have them the right way round ...
then using your multi meter check you have not broken a pcb track its easy to ..
in which case just check the last area on which you worked ....
failing that
no power up suggests no power ...
check all flexible jumpers and connections
foil connectors need to be pushed deep into the sockets not just resting in them ..
so start with the main caps and check you have them the right way round ...
then using your multi meter check you have not broken a pcb track its easy to ..
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