I'll try to be to the point....
So after listening to this amp since July I could always notice that the bass seemed to fade and it did not seem to have the punch that an old SS reference 500s had so I compared the two with a pioneer 10 TS-W2502D4. I paralleled the coils for 2 ohms and just rested it on the backseat without a cabinet.
The Soundstream was frightening as it pushed this sub to almost its excursion limits without clipping!
The Q1-1200D would barely push the sub and would light the clip indicator!
So I popped the back cover off and started inspecting.
I found the negative speaker feed buss bar very loose, I could move it about 1/4 inch back and forth. The solder job was very poor, they shouldn't have soldered it at all.
Second thing I found was the fuse holder legs, just the back row, that are connected to the board, barley had any solder on them. So up to 120 amps going through a very small conduction area, hmm.
Third thing was the speaker output connector legs that are connected to the board had very little solder on them and I could see through the holes were solder should be. Again, very small conduction area, hmm.
I re-soldered all of these issues and it has a lot more punch. Seems to keep up with the soundstream now.
So the load was trying to suck current through these weak areas...
Wonder how many have this problem. If you own one, you may want to check these areas for this issue.
So after listening to this amp since July I could always notice that the bass seemed to fade and it did not seem to have the punch that an old SS reference 500s had so I compared the two with a pioneer 10 TS-W2502D4. I paralleled the coils for 2 ohms and just rested it on the backseat without a cabinet.
The Soundstream was frightening as it pushed this sub to almost its excursion limits without clipping!
The Q1-1200D would barely push the sub and would light the clip indicator!
So I popped the back cover off and started inspecting.
I found the negative speaker feed buss bar very loose, I could move it about 1/4 inch back and forth. The solder job was very poor, they shouldn't have soldered it at all.
Second thing I found was the fuse holder legs, just the back row, that are connected to the board, barley had any solder on them. So up to 120 amps going through a very small conduction area, hmm.
Third thing was the speaker output connector legs that are connected to the board had very little solder on them and I could see through the holes were solder should be. Again, very small conduction area, hmm.
I re-soldered all of these issues and it has a lot more punch. Seems to keep up with the soundstream now.
So the load was trying to suck current through these weak areas...
Wonder how many have this problem. If you own one, you may want to check these areas for this issue.
Attachments
During my drive to work and listening to music at a moderate level, keep in mind that my Dayton 12 is a single voice coil and rated at I think about 250 watts. OK, my Soundstream 500s pounded this sub and never clipped, however this Q1-1200 clipped easily and still not half as loud. Very disappointed. After the items I found, it makes me wonder how much other crappy solder joints there are. Anyway, since I did re-solder, I think that voided the warranty. So, this thing was a learning project.... Be warned
Oh and there tech support said "I've never seen this problem and I have looked inside hundreds if not thousands of our amps. This seems to be an unfortunate case of electronics having a defect. Since you did do your own repair work this does void our warranty. If the amp is in good condition meaning no gashes, scratches, broken bits I will get you a refund minus the cost of re-stocking which is 20% of the shipped price. If you'd like to keep the amp I will have a tech look at it, if it's deemed unrepairable do to a man defect I will swap it out, however it is repairable there will be a service charge as the warranty is void."
Yea right.... I have a feeling that if I sent it back to them that they would charge me to fix it, but at least they offered....
Oh and there tech support said "I've never seen this problem and I have looked inside hundreds if not thousands of our amps. This seems to be an unfortunate case of electronics having a defect. Since you did do your own repair work this does void our warranty. If the amp is in good condition meaning no gashes, scratches, broken bits I will get you a refund minus the cost of re-stocking which is 20% of the shipped price. If you'd like to keep the amp I will have a tech look at it, if it's deemed unrepairable do to a man defect I will swap it out, however it is repairable there will be a service charge as the warranty is void."
Yea right.... I have a feeling that if I sent it back to them that they would charge me to fix it, but at least they offered....
Soundqubed has a reputable Customer Service record. If you do send it back, make sure you tell them to call you before they do anything to the amp(repairs). That way they can't start on it and tell u they need to fix it and charge you. ;-)
Update
I decided to take this amp apart to see anything wrong. I will post pics.
I re-flowed all the heavy solder joints and inspected all the mosfets and dual diodes for broken legs, everything was fine.
I was quite impressed that they used decent mosfets in the power-supply!
On my bench... It seemed to work great then I plugged the remote gain control in... That's when I started getting lots of rumble and noise until I bumped and moved the plug at the amp end. So the main problem is the remote.
I've had it in my car for a week now, without the remote, and it's doing a fantastic job. If I plug the remote in, things go south.
So re-flowing some solder joints and disconnecting the remote, there seems to be zero issues with this amp.
So now I have to chase down the problem with the remote.
😀
I decided to take this amp apart to see anything wrong. I will post pics.
I re-flowed all the heavy solder joints and inspected all the mosfets and dual diodes for broken legs, everything was fine.
I was quite impressed that they used decent mosfets in the power-supply!
On my bench... It seemed to work great then I plugged the remote gain control in... That's when I started getting lots of rumble and noise until I bumped and moved the plug at the amp end. So the main problem is the remote.
I've had it in my car for a week now, without the remote, and it's doing a fantastic job. If I plug the remote in, things go south.
So re-flowing some solder joints and disconnecting the remote, there seems to be zero issues with this amp.
So now I have to chase down the problem with the remote.
😀
This thing has 8 of these for the power supply...
DFP70N06
Low RDS(on) (0.014Ω )@VGS=10V
Low Gate Charge (Typical 70nC)
Low Crss (Typical 160pF)
Improved dv/dt Capability
100% Avalanche Tested
Maximum Junction Temperature Range
RDS(ON) = 0.014 ohm
ID = 70A
BVDSS = 60V
And 4 of these for the rectifier...
FMU22U
V RM (V) 200
IF (AV) (A) 10
I FSM (A) 65
50Hz
Half-cycle Sinewave
Single Shot
10 of these for the finals
IRF640N
VDSS = 200V
RDS(on) = 0.15Ω
ID = 18A
3 TL074CN opamps
DFP70N06
Low RDS(on) (0.014Ω )@VGS=10V
Low Gate Charge (Typical 70nC)
Low Crss (Typical 160pF)
Improved dv/dt Capability
100% Avalanche Tested
Maximum Junction Temperature Range
RDS(ON) = 0.014 ohm
ID = 70A
BVDSS = 60V
And 4 of these for the rectifier...
FMU22U
V RM (V) 200
IF (AV) (A) 10
I FSM (A) 65
50Hz
Half-cycle Sinewave
Single Shot
10 of these for the finals
IRF640N
VDSS = 200V
RDS(on) = 0.15Ω
ID = 18A
3 TL074CN opamps
Attachments
Putting it back together...
Make sure the clips are fully seated. I got most of them with my fingers but had to use channel locks for a couple stubborn ones
Now to test it in the car again... with the remote
Make sure the clips are fully seated. I got most of them with my fingers but had to use channel locks for a couple stubborn ones
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now to test it in the car again... with the remote
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Attachments
looks like a class D amp
check the amp outputs for shorts, then check the driver chip
replace as nesscessary
check the amp outputs for shorts, then check the driver chip
replace as nesscessary
Yes its brand new. It has about 6mv of dc offset. The problem was the connectors on the ends of the remote wire. Caused all kinds of rumble and noise. Very clean now😉
great to know your amp works good now 🙂
and i see there's "capxon"
change them to something better maybe? 😀
and i see there's "capxon"
change them to something better maybe? 😀
great to know your amp works good now 🙂
and i see there's "capxon"
change them to something better maybe? 😀
Sure, after about 4 or 5 years they should be changed. It would suck if they leaked.
I did measure the ripple coming off the rails and it was about 60mv on each side.
Panasonic caps will be put in.😀
great to know your amp works good now 🙂
and i see there's "capxon"
change them to something better maybe? 😀
I wouldn't worry about it, as I've seen some VERY HIGH end expensive amplifiers that had the same Capxon caps...heck are KELNA rip off of ELNA?
kelna
high-end amps + good caps = profit 😀
they sounds better w/ a good caps imo 🙂
kelna
high-end amps + good caps = profit 😀
they sounds better w/ a good caps imo 🙂
I wont mention the amps name but they where HIGH END, and cost more than the average 300 dollar amp. Sham wow has some caps as well
I'm having issues with some of their equipment at the moment and I'm starting to wonder what the odds are that my q2200.1 amps have some of the same problems you have had seeing as one of the two amps came with a defective bass remote too. And to the op I wouldn't even put the 2200 over the soundstream reference 500 so I know exactly what you mean and even with the 2200.1 amps strapped they don't come close to a ref 700sx at running @ .5 ohm IMO.
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