Curious what folks are doing to get the speaker connections through
the wood enclosure to hook up the drivers inside the box.
I'll be going through 1 1/2-in of wood. I thought I might drill through
and glue/seal in #10 stainless screw posts. I have no pictures yet.
Can anyone post pictures or describe there connections ?
the wood enclosure to hook up the drivers inside the box.
I'll be going through 1 1/2-in of wood. I thought I might drill through
and glue/seal in #10 stainless screw posts. I have no pictures yet.
Can anyone post pictures or describe there connections ?
I usually mount banana plugs (female) on the box.
But if I want to have wire coming out of the box (for example an active speaker with external amps, or an external passive crossover), I bore a hole in a region of the cabinet which will be hidden. Typically I would bore a 3/8 inch hole. Then after the wire has been pulled through, I pack the remaining space in the hole with foam insulation. I pack it pretty tight.
But if I want to have wire coming out of the box (for example an active speaker with external amps, or an external passive crossover), I bore a hole in a region of the cabinet which will be hidden. Typically I would bore a 3/8 inch hole. Then after the wire has been pulled through, I pack the remaining space in the hole with foam insulation. I pack it pretty tight.
I just used my first Speakon connectors. The female socket that goes into the cabinet only needs a single 15/16" diameter hole, and the wires connect onto the back of that. You don't have to have a post long enough to go all the way through the cabinet.
I've been using speakon connectors. Also some hifi supply terminals, but they are better with a connector plate (aluminium or something) than straight through the wood. I had one speaker loose the tightening nut on a singular banana style terminal which was directly on the plywood. No access to the nut of course so that was the last time using that method. For prototypes it is a wire through a hole sealed with hot glue, or a long woodscrew throuh the wall if no hot glue at hand 🙂
Yep, SpeakOn all the way. Here's why:
- Lots of current capacity
- Physically rugged
- Cannot be accidentally shorted out
- Always connects the right way round
- Up to 8x poles in a single connector
- Easy to make air-tight
Chris
- Lots of current capacity
- Physically rugged
- Cannot be accidentally shorted out
- Always connects the right way round
- Up to 8x poles in a single connector
- Easy to make air-tight
Chris
I like to leave the hole open to vent the box to the atmosphere. Sometimes I'll tie a knot behind it (very professional 😉) so that if I trip over it I won't rip the terminals out of the driver.
I use the 4 pole connectors and these base plates: Neutrik NL4MPR speakON Connector 4 Pole Round Chassis Mount
Speakon rules !
Here's my standard config for a main 3-way speaker, and a separate sub.
Back of latest synergy build.
NL-8 on left accepts all 4 channels, and is wired in parallel with sub pass-thru on first NL-4, Mid connection on second NL-4, and HF & VHF on third NL-4.
Allows a single 8 wire cable to feed all, or running separate cables to feed individual sections.
Subs have their own NL-4 inputs, to accept pass thru feed from main, or from a separate cable.
Have done every build like this for a long time....gives great ease of hook up for portability, and for testing / swapping sections etc.
Here's my standard config for a main 3-way speaker, and a separate sub.
Back of latest synergy build.
NL-8 on left accepts all 4 channels, and is wired in parallel with sub pass-thru on first NL-4, Mid connection on second NL-4, and HF & VHF on third NL-4.
Allows a single 8 wire cable to feed all, or running separate cables to feed individual sections.
Subs have their own NL-4 inputs, to accept pass thru feed from main, or from a separate cable.
Have done every build like this for a long time....gives great ease of hook up for portability, and for testing / swapping sections etc.
