Hello everyone, my name is Chris.
I'm sure this question has been asked a thousand times, but I just haven't been able to find exactly what I want. I'm looking for a speaker project with plans and BOM. I can do all the woodworking, sourcing parts, etc. myself.
I have an amp that is 10watt @4ohms, so the speakers need to have decent sensitivity. Size can't be much more than 4, maybe 5 foot tall, width and depth not much of an issue. I mainly listen to classic rock from the 60s to early 80s, so I'm not needing super bass or anything like that.
Also keeping it affordable is another requirement, as my audio equipment is not high end, and I'm not an audiophile. My current speakers are over 40 years old as well as most of my setup. They sound good to me, but could be better. Any suggestions, or resources for a project would be greatly appreciated.
This is my current setup.
Fisher Studio Standard, Receiver RS-2004A, Cassette-8Track Deck ER-8150, Turntable-Linear Motor 120 Pole MT-6224,
Amp-MP PureTube
I'm sure this question has been asked a thousand times, but I just haven't been able to find exactly what I want. I'm looking for a speaker project with plans and BOM. I can do all the woodworking, sourcing parts, etc. myself.
I have an amp that is 10watt @4ohms, so the speakers need to have decent sensitivity. Size can't be much more than 4, maybe 5 foot tall, width and depth not much of an issue. I mainly listen to classic rock from the 60s to early 80s, so I'm not needing super bass or anything like that.
Also keeping it affordable is another requirement, as my audio equipment is not high end, and I'm not an audiophile. My current speakers are over 40 years old as well as most of my setup. They sound good to me, but could be better. Any suggestions, or resources for a project would be greatly appreciated.
This is my current setup.
Fisher Studio Standard, Receiver RS-2004A, Cassette-8Track Deck ER-8150, Turntable-Linear Motor 120 Pole MT-6224,
Amp-MP PureTube
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OK, given your miniscule amp output at 10W, 4 Ohms, you'll need an efficient speaker.
Since you're in multi-way, that sounds to me like a "woofer assisted wideband" (WAW) or a woofer with a compression driver horn on top. Or a coax driver with the compression part integrated into the unit.
There's so many way to go; sorry I cant point to a specific project with drawings / BOM. I'm sure others can!
Since you're in multi-way, that sounds to me like a "woofer assisted wideband" (WAW) or a woofer with a compression driver horn on top. Or a coax driver with the compression part integrated into the unit.
There's so many way to go; sorry I cant point to a specific project with drawings / BOM. I'm sure others can!
The amp looks like a PP EL84. Hard to make a bad EL84 amp :^)
Does the amp also have 8Ω taps? If so than it also puts out 10w into 8Ω.
10w is likely more than you think. Given the typical clipping characteristics of an EL84 amp it could well sound as loud as a 100w amp that is not as well behaved while clipping as your amp.
A WAW has been suggested. I would suggest that you may well be happy with a single full range driver. This brings simplicity, impedance typically works well with higher output impedance amplifiers, and can be sensitive enuff to play as loud as you need. In the right box, a good FR can produe solid bass with a seemlessness very hard to achieve with a typical multiway with an XO right where you are most sensitive.
Perhaps something like A10p (if you can find some) or Fostex FF165wk in Frugel-Horn XL or A12p in Joan. Or if you want a simple monkey coffin, a Pensil, or given your range of suitable heights, one of teh taller ML-TLs. Note that those are the more sensitive of the possibilities, i suspect more sensitivity than you really need.
dave
Does the amp also have 8Ω taps? If so than it also puts out 10w into 8Ω.
10w is likely more than you think. Given the typical clipping characteristics of an EL84 amp it could well sound as loud as a 100w amp that is not as well behaved while clipping as your amp.
A WAW has been suggested. I would suggest that you may well be happy with a single full range driver. This brings simplicity, impedance typically works well with higher output impedance amplifiers, and can be sensitive enuff to play as loud as you need. In the right box, a good FR can produe solid bass with a seemlessness very hard to achieve with a typical multiway with an XO right where you are most sensitive.
Perhaps something like A10p (if you can find some) or Fostex FF165wk in Frugel-Horn XL or A12p in Joan. Or if you want a simple monkey coffin, a Pensil, or given your range of suitable heights, one of teh taller ML-TLs. Note that those are the more sensitive of the possibilities, i suspect more sensitivity than you really need.
dave
Yes, it does use EL-84 tubes, however on the back the speaker terminals say 4Ω-8Ω. I assumed it was like a ss amp and that lower ohms means more power.
Very common in budget amps just have a 6Ω tap, good for 408Ω nominal speakers, but do note that few speakers have flat impedance curve and the nominal specification can be misleading.
dave
dave
The output impedance matching transformer seen in almost all tube amps is made to be properly loaded by a flat speaker load of the impedance specified by the OPT. Greater or lower impedance means less power.
So your amp is likely 10w into 6Ω. 4 or 8 is close enuff. 10w is low for a PP EL84, they PS voltage is likely on the low side.
As with many of the run-of-the-mill Chinese made amplifiers avaialble today this one may be screaming, MODIFY ME. I am currently using a 3.2w Class A triode EL84 PP and its performance rivals my much, much pricier SIT-3.
dave
So your amp is likely 10w into 6Ω. 4 or 8 is close enuff. 10w is low for a PP EL84, they PS voltage is likely on the low side.
As with many of the run-of-the-mill Chinese made amplifiers avaialble today this one may be screaming, MODIFY ME. I am currently using a 3.2w Class A triode EL84 PP and its performance rivals my much, much pricier SIT-3.
dave
I guess I really prefer a multi speaker setup because I like the way they look. The full range speaker looks kinda "naked". I've looked at the OSMC and I like the look of it, but it's a little out of my price range.
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Perhaps the Asathor would be something for you? Sensitivity is around 93dB and the cost of the drivers is around $ 160 per speaker.
There are pictures and the x-over plan in post # 7, the blueprint for the cabinet is in post # 34.
Asathor - a JBL 4367 Clone
There are pictures and the x-over plan in post # 7, the blueprint for the cabinet is in post # 34.
Asathor - a JBL 4367 Clone
I can't believe the best anyone can suggest is 93 db 1w1m. I had some 101 db 1w1m Peavey SP2-XT before the burglar carried them off.
I listened to these at about 1/4 W. with my 70 W/ch amp (5 second rating, measured) system was able to achieve sound peaks of 55 db over bass level if the music required it. Very realistic, sounded very like a piano on those sources.
If you don't listen to classical music, 10 W would be fine. Popular music tends to be 10-30 db crest factor. Techno or house, less than that.
I'm looking to build some ugly speakers that a burglar can't fence. Burglar left the plywood shober organ speaker here. 40 lb of wood, 3 way, sounds very plastic (cheap).
I found some used 22XT horns for $130 the pair, which I intend to mount naked on a pole pointed down. I had my SP2 up at ceiling on poles, very nice sound around the room when I walked around. Crossover will hang in the air exposed, too. Trying to figure out how peavey got -3db 50 hz out of a 1505-KADT 15" woofer. Sealed box 21" W 19 D 31 H. I listen to Bach & Beethoven that go all the way down, also Tommy Boyce & Bobby Hart.
I listened to these at about 1/4 W. with my 70 W/ch amp (5 second rating, measured) system was able to achieve sound peaks of 55 db over bass level if the music required it. Very realistic, sounded very like a piano on those sources.
If you don't listen to classical music, 10 W would be fine. Popular music tends to be 10-30 db crest factor. Techno or house, less than that.
I'm looking to build some ugly speakers that a burglar can't fence. Burglar left the plywood shober organ speaker here. 40 lb of wood, 3 way, sounds very plastic (cheap).
I found some used 22XT horns for $130 the pair, which I intend to mount naked on a pole pointed down. I had my SP2 up at ceiling on poles, very nice sound around the room when I walked around. Crossover will hang in the air exposed, too. Trying to figure out how peavey got -3db 50 hz out of a 1505-KADT 15" woofer. Sealed box 21" W 19 D 31 H. I listen to Bach & Beethoven that go all the way down, also Tommy Boyce & Bobby Hart.
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Sensitivity, lower limit frequency and size are directly related to each other. If the Peavey really had 101dB / 1W, then no deep bass can come out of it. It's simple physics.
Manufacturers also like to cheat with sensitivity. See Klipsch.
Manufacturers also like to cheat with sensitivity. See Klipsch.
I would be far more concerned about how well the speakers mate with your room size, its acoustical characteristics, and your available amplifier power, than how many drivers they have.
If you have a relatively small room and low power amp you might be much better off with a single high quality full range driver than trying to use two or three drivers plus a neccessary custom designed crossover just to get a certain "look".
No, not really. You can make any speaker look pleasing with a little effort.
The vast majority of people on this forum build custom speakers to get the sound quality they want at a price they can afford. And they often achieve a level of performance and sound quality far beyond what they could buy commercially at many times the cost.
It's really a matter of starting with your room, listening position, music tastes, amplifier, etc., as I have already indicated. From those parameters you can determine what the enclosure type, driver alignment and other features would be best suited for your needs.
Once you know those things the cabinet appearance is the easy part. I'm a woodworker as you appear to be as well, and the speaker cabinet to me is just another furniture building challenge with lots of ways to make it attractive.
The vast majority of people on this forum build custom speakers to get the sound quality they want at a price they can afford. And they often achieve a level of performance and sound quality far beyond what they could buy commercially at many times the cost.
It's really a matter of starting with your room, listening position, music tastes, amplifier, etc., as I have already indicated. From those parameters you can determine what the enclosure type, driver alignment and other features would be best suited for your needs.
Once you know those things the cabinet appearance is the easy part. I'm a woodworker as you appear to be as well, and the speaker cabinet to me is just another furniture building challenge with lots of ways to make it attractive.
raven, if that were true I'd build something my wife could appreciate. As it is I simply try to blend (read hide) it into the room. 😉
So is the Asathor a bad idea? Full range would be the best option? My room is 20X20ft. I'm not wanting to design and tune my own speaker cabinets. Just looking for a project that's proven good and copy it.