I have a Sansui 2000x Receiver that I use for playing vinyl records. I have a pair of 3 way Coral bx 300 speakers hooked up to them and they sound decent but I would like to update all the drivers and crossover unit inside these speakers. Some of the drivers are blown out and some do not sound good.
Can anyone suggest a set of new drivers / crossover unit that will work well with this receiver and the Coral speaker enclosure that I have? This is not a ported speaker box. It has a 10in woofer, 4in mid, and the tweeters are 3 3/8" diameter by 3 1/4" tall. I would preferably like to buy an assembled crossover unit, rather than build one from scratch.
Attached is the specs for the Sansui Receiver and the Coral Speakers I want to get the most out of this system for playing the vinyl. Thank you very much.
- Kevin
Can anyone suggest a set of new drivers / crossover unit that will work well with this receiver and the Coral speaker enclosure that I have? This is not a ported speaker box. It has a 10in woofer, 4in mid, and the tweeters are 3 3/8" diameter by 3 1/4" tall. I would preferably like to buy an assembled crossover unit, rather than build one from scratch.
Attached is the specs for the Sansui Receiver and the Coral Speakers I want to get the most out of this system for playing the vinyl. Thank you very much.
- Kevin
Hi,
The specification states the BX300 is bass reflex, i.e. it is ported.
The sensitivity spec of 102dB is highly dubious, or the frequency
response is very suspect in regards of measurement conditions.
A 6dB x/o at 3.5KHz makes the mid effectively a tweeter,
and a filler type if barely an octave above there is a 12dB
x/o to the horn supertweeter.
You have huge problems trying to update them with
new drivers and an off the shelf prebuilt crossover.
If the bass drivers are still good consider an Econowave.
rgds, sreten.
The specification states the BX300 is bass reflex, i.e. it is ported.
The sensitivity spec of 102dB is highly dubious, or the frequency
response is very suspect in regards of measurement conditions.
A 6dB x/o at 3.5KHz makes the mid effectively a tweeter,
and a filler type if barely an octave above there is a 12dB
x/o to the horn supertweeter.
You have huge problems trying to update them with
new drivers and an off the shelf prebuilt crossover.
If the bass drivers are still good consider an Econowave.
rgds, sreten.
Sreten, thank you for the response, If i wanted to keep the setup the same but replace one of the drivers, how can I tell if I am replacing it with the correct specs for this enclosure / crossover? Is it better to look on ebay for all the original drivers?
Thanks, Kevin
Thanks, Kevin
Hi,
I doubt you would be able to find the original drivers.
TBH the Coral speakers are so old school and the
specs so unreliable I think your wasting your time.
You say they sound decent but I severely doubt it.
My googling indicates that they are extremely crude.
They are nearly 50 years old and 50 years out of date.
You'd be better off spending your money on new
speakers, new or used that are simply a lot better.
rgds, sreten.
You can pick up a pair of Pioneer SP-FS51-LR floorstanders
for $150 delivered, which is a lot of speaker for not much.
I doubt you would be able to find the original drivers.
TBH the Coral speakers are so old school and the
specs so unreliable I think your wasting your time.
You say they sound decent but I severely doubt it.
My googling indicates that they are extremely crude.
They are nearly 50 years old and 50 years out of date.
You'd be better off spending your money on new
speakers, new or used that are simply a lot better.
rgds, sreten.
You can pick up a pair of Pioneer SP-FS51-LR floorstanders
for $150 delivered, which is a lot of speaker for not much.
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Looks like a free running (ie no bafflestep bass coil) 10" bass with capacitors crossing to a sealed back 4" cone mid and a horn tweeter which probably just adds a bit of air. You can probably get similar drivers still. I know Visaton do a sealed back 4" cone mid.
M 10 - 8 Ohm
Tandberg used to make something like this. The Tandberg Hifi 15. I could probably dig up the crossover values with some effort. I have the brochure somewhere.
But really this is a huge undertaking. This off the shelf might vaguely work with some attenuating resistors:
HW 3/120 NG - 8 Ohm
Here's how we do three ways these days:
SEAS Kit 503
SEAS-3-Way-Classic
M 10 - 8 Ohm
Tandberg used to make something like this. The Tandberg Hifi 15. I could probably dig up the crossover values with some effort. I have the brochure somewhere.
But really this is a huge undertaking. This off the shelf might vaguely work with some attenuating resistors:
HW 3/120 NG - 8 Ohm
Here's how we do three ways these days:
SEAS Kit 503
SEAS-3-Way-Classic
Attachments
Ooh, just a thought, but here's your typical modern free-running 10" bass. The SEAS A26RE4. It has a high inductance bafflestep coil built in, by one way of thinking.
SEAS The Art Of Sound Perfection
SEAS do a kit:
SEAS A26 Kit
28 litres or 1 cubic foot of aperiodic cabinet. You can use a cheaper SEAS tweeter by all accounts. Fancy your chances of putting something like that in your cabinet?
SEAS The Art Of Sound Perfection
SEAS do a kit:
SEAS A26 Kit
28 litres or 1 cubic foot of aperiodic cabinet. You can use a cheaper SEAS tweeter by all accounts. Fancy your chances of putting something like that in your cabinet?
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Hello System7,
Thanks for the info, here is a .pdf of what is currently in the box. Maybe replacing these speakers with some of your suggestions would restore it to it close to the original sound? and keeping the current crossover in there would work? How can I tell what frequency range and wattage these Coral speakers cover, so I know what a close replacement would be? Pardon my lack of knowledge, still learning here.
Thanks for the info, here is a .pdf of what is currently in the box. Maybe replacing these speakers with some of your suggestions would restore it to it close to the original sound? and keeping the current crossover in there would work? How can I tell what frequency range and wattage these Coral speakers cover, so I know what a close replacement would be? Pardon my lack of knowledge, still learning here.
OMG old school! That's frightening ! When the piece of furniture was more important that the sound it produced...or is it like that still nowadays ? 😱
So that's old scholl, ok; are we going to keep it ? If something's broken , better to use new parts. And what about the piece of furniture? That's a problem: nowadays the speakers are mounted on the front of the baffle, to keep low the diffractions; same is done for the space surrounding the speakers, so no abrupt angles for holding the grills; the heavy cloth is avoided too.
So, as long as you don't want to change the front panel, the baffle, you're still attached to the existing way of mounting the drivers. No big steps in quality, then.
Another symptomatic indication of old school is found also in cabinet construction, which has "high losses": if you have seen some DIY buildings, you should have noticed the solid construction and the use of much glue and various techniques to keep the enclosure "rock solid". From the internet it seems that the Coral woofer has a hole in the dustcap, just for confirmation of the high loss design ( the aperiodic load for the Seas suggested by System 7 could be classified under high loss design too 😕 ).
Ok, Sreten already explained how the actual driver arrangement works.
The crossover components are auxiliary to the arrangement.
No particular care of the sound is explained also in the horizontal disposition of midrange ( it's a "filler", indeed ) and tweeter. The classic ( aural dimensions or near...) dimensions of the cabinet would then have to be disproportional and could not find the taste of the buyer.
So that's old scholl, ok; are we going to keep it ? If something's broken , better to use new parts. And what about the piece of furniture? That's a problem: nowadays the speakers are mounted on the front of the baffle, to keep low the diffractions; same is done for the space surrounding the speakers, so no abrupt angles for holding the grills; the heavy cloth is avoided too.
So, as long as you don't want to change the front panel, the baffle, you're still attached to the existing way of mounting the drivers. No big steps in quality, then.
Another symptomatic indication of old school is found also in cabinet construction, which has "high losses": if you have seen some DIY buildings, you should have noticed the solid construction and the use of much glue and various techniques to keep the enclosure "rock solid". From the internet it seems that the Coral woofer has a hole in the dustcap, just for confirmation of the high loss design ( the aperiodic load for the Seas suggested by System 7 could be classified under high loss design too 😕 ).
Ok, Sreten already explained how the actual driver arrangement works.
The crossover components are auxiliary to the arrangement.
No particular care of the sound is explained also in the horizontal disposition of midrange ( it's a "filler", indeed ) and tweeter. The classic ( aural dimensions or near...) dimensions of the cabinet would then have to be disproportional and could not find the taste of the buyer.
Kevin,
Vintage speakers are not for me but I do understand the charm of owning a pair.
Looked on the web for a few minutes and found lots of sources for the Coral speaker; your best bet would just look for a good deal; salvage all the best parts and make one good set.
Now that said also have an Sansui 7070 from the 1970's and found that it works very nicely with small full range speakers.
If you want to try something new, I think you would enjoy a pair of "Full-Rangers".
Doug
Vintage speakers are not for me but I do understand the charm of owning a pair.
Looked on the web for a few minutes and found lots of sources for the Coral speaker; your best bet would just look for a good deal; salvage all the best parts and make one good set.
Now that said also have an Sansui 7070 from the 1970's and found that it works very nicely with small full range speakers.
If you want to try something new, I think you would enjoy a pair of "Full-Rangers".
Doug
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